Broken Easy Out Removal Methods

Post by **david58** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:10 am

I had a customers vehicle last night that he himself broke an easy out off in a hole with no bottom to it and it was in an aluminum intake. I dressed up the top of it, as it was almost flush already. I then used a 3/8 flat washer over the opening and welded the flat washer to the easy out. Next I welded a 3/8 nut to the washer, let it cool down worked it back and forth out came the easy out. Then I drilled it so it was paper-thin and used a pick to remove what was left from the threads. Ran a tap thru it and put it back together. I have used this method to remove broken bolts also. I don’t know why they call them easy out’s. I almost never use one. Easy out’s work against you by spreading the metal out tighter and tighter till something gives. Does any one else have any other methods for removing broken studs, bolts, taps, or easy outs?

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:04 pm

I weld stuff to them... bolts... nuts.. bottle caps.. just about anything... with come careful wire... seems as just about everything comes out.

I'm mostly interested in the heat/cold options...I've seen guys take off rusted nuts with a tweezers.. still amazed at how that happens.

scott the viking · Post by **scott the viking** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:18 pm

For a lot of stuff I use a reverse drill bit.

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:31 pm

scott the viking wrote:For a lot of stuff I use a reverse drill bit.

Please clarify for us idiots... a drill in reverse... or a left-handed cutting bit.

All_talk · Post by **All_talk** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:35 pm

I've used the "weld something on" method quite a few times, but as MNAirHead eluded to, I think its the heat that does the trick. I mean think about it, just about any thing you weld to it will be weaker than the complete bolt was originally and if the bolt was stuck enough to twist off in the first place it would likely just break again at the weld. These days if I get one wont come loose with a little back and forth I go straight for the torch, I have yet to find one that wont give up when its cherry red... I just try not to melt the wiring or set the car on fire.

Gary

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:37 pm

What/how do you heat up?

I have a way that I'm sure is stupid.

All_talk · Post by **All_talk** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:51 pm

For small jobs or "lightly stuck" (like that ever happens) a small propane torch might get the job done. But in many cases success requires a nice warm glow and Oxy-Acetylene is the quickest route.

Gary

MNAirHead wrote: I have a way that I'm sure is stupid.

Well if it works how stupid could it be.

scott the viking · Post by **scott the viking** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:58 pm

Yeah...left handed cutting.

You can get some things out by welding, due to the fact that welding shrinks. Take for instance...run a long bead on one side of something your welding without welding the other side and you will see how much it pulled it open.
Like a stuck bearing race or noway to beat it out from behind (Harley frame neck race) you can run a bead in it and it will darn near fall out when it cools.

rally bug · Post by **rally bug** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 6:05 pm

I use the reverse cutting drill bits also. You almost always will get the part out before you need to use the eazy out.

SANDDUDE · Post by **SANDDUDE** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 6:09 pm

eazy out = hard out

& they are made of the hardest substance on earth