FAQ - Idiot / Warning Lights

Every car has an electrical system. Here's the place to learn all about it.
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MNAirHead
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FAQ - Idiot / Warning Lights

Post by MNAirHead »

OR BEST/Hall of Fame Series
This thread series is intended to help you improve your work and reduce headaches. This is a collective project.
BACKGROUND - Lights
VW had very little to do with guages... they focused on "idiot" lights to report when it was too late. The challenege of the lights is that many times they can not be seen in the day light etc.

QUESTION - Warning Lights
Any tricks to improve the oil pressure and electrical light on a dub?
Any pix?
Last edited by MNAirHead on Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ol'fogasaurus
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Idiot / Warning Lights

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

The light for the Alt/Generator is required unless you use a diode. The light for the oil pressure is a good thing but the trouble is that it comes on at less than ten pounds and by then it could be too late.

You can get running lights, that are larger, in both red and amber. If you have a parts house that know you and will let you look at their electrical parts books, you might be able to find larger lights that have visors on them. I think these are still around. If not, you can make the visors yourself. They are not too hard to do. You can also add a horn, buzzer or other noise maker but the problem with them is starting up your engine in camp while others are still sleeping.

I prefer to run both lights and gauges. Several yeas ago, I spun a bearing in my buggy. The oil pressure gauge told me that the oil pressure was dropping and dropping fast. I headed back to camp and made it as the oil pressure was at zero. It wasn't until I was back at camp the the idiot light finally came on as I was loading it onto the trailer.

I also had the oil gauge warn me that I had another oiling problem which was solved by adding a sump to the bottom of the engine. The idiot light only came on after I had hit the top of the hill.

While you can hook up a volt gauge easier, I still recommend an AMP gauge. If you know how to read it, it will tell you more about the condition of your electrical system than a volt gauge will.

No matter what gauge you add, it is no good if you don't monitor it. If you off-road a lot, you might want to rotated the gauges so that the needle points straight up when it is at the proper reading (not neat but functional). That way, a quick glance will tell you everything is ok. Digital gauges may be more accurate but take longer to read.

Electrical oil pressure gauges are easier to hook up and the wiring is easier to route than a mechanical gauge. You can get combination sendors that allow both the light and gauge. The sender is more expensive. I think the mechanical gauge is less prone to problems except for the nylon line being burnt through by the exhaust. It can be cut easily too. I try to carry both ferrels and line just incase. DO NOT USE COPPER LINE as it will crystelize and fracture from vibration. Most race sanctions do not allow copper lines.

I hope this helps. Lee
Lee

My opinion is worth slightly less than what you paid for it.
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

Does anyone know if there is an oil presure that comes on earlier (lower pressure)

Tim
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

Thanks for the comments... this is exactly what we're trying to accomplish.
Hot Wheels
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Post by Hot Wheels »

I love guages, but in the buggy I always ran a pair of big trailer style lites mounted in my field of vision for the oil and alternator. Red for oil amber for alt.

If you trow the alt belt the amber lite comes on, or if the alt dies, but most times i threw the belt pulling 8500 rpm at the dunes.

Oil lite was a good idea and never needed it luckily.

When you are really getting after a bumpy trail its hard to really look at the guages till things settle down.
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

In our bajas, I mount lights under the rear window... This way when you look in the mirror you see the lights.
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

One clarifcation question for our newest members...

VW idiot lights illuminate and report that something bad happened?.. not monitor the status?

I've caught broken belts from them... cat like reflexes helped me stop in 2 seconds...
terry cloyd
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Post by terry cloyd »

It is easier to run a Hobbs pressure switch to save the motor than to run the gauge or light :wink:
Charles R
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Post by Charles R »

I autocross a ghia, and in that environment things happen so fast I don't have time to look at gauges...In fact, I've pointed out the my engine builder who encouraged me to install a tach, I've never once noted my RPM while on track! :shock:

But the very first thing I did was the 'big rig trailer' idiot light conversion. I used the gaping hole left by a 'din' sized radio to install two big red lights. (A piezo alarm speaker is coming soon) Many people have asked me which light is which? And I simply tell them, "I'm not racing for money, so if either of them light up I stop." :P

As far as changing sensor 'on' pressures? VW actually has a number of "on/off" sensors that will thread into the sotck hole with a variety of trigger pressures. I'll post a few part numbers, and trigger pressures, that should screw right in tomorrow.

If you REALLY wanted to get fancy, while keeping the whole idea of simple idiot light effectiveness, the reason for the different pressure switches, is that water cooled VW's have a "dynamic sensing" system...
This setup uses a basic logic circuit and two switches; A low pressure/normally closed switch, and a high pressure/normally open switch.
With this combo and an RPM signal, the light is triggered when pressure drops below 1.8bar at 2500RPM or above, but still works as normal below that.
terry cloyd
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Post by terry cloyd »

Buttercup Calif. has some big punch bowls. When you ride on the side of the punch bowl for a long time at high RPS, there is more oil on the top of the motor than the bottom. The Hobbs pressure switch is wired to the coil and will kill the motor at the set pressure you want. I will then wait for level land and hit the over ride button.

The alternator is wired to a light with a loud buzzer. You will want to know when you lose the fan belt.

I tried for many years to run gauges. I can't keep the hands on them. The vibration they just fall off.
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

terry cloyd wrote:Buttercup Calif. has some big punch bowls. When you ride on the side of the punch bowl for a long time at high RPS, there is more oil on the top of the motor than the bottom. The Hobbs pressure switch is wired to the coil and will kill the motor at the set pressure you want. I will then wait for level land and hit the over ride button.

The alternator is wired to a light with a loud buzzer. You will want to know when you lose the fan belt.

I tried for many years to run gauges. I can't keep the hands on them. The vibration they just fall off.
This sounds incredible.. Email me some pix and I'll post them.. I'm kind of getting the idea..

There's a lesson in there.
terry cloyd
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Post by terry cloyd »

Tim look a some of the picture and see why the arms of a gauge will fall off. Buttercup goes to Glamis and you learn to fly from one punch bowl to the next.

http://www.duneguide.com/sand_dune_guid ... tercup.htm
tikotiko
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Post by tikotiko »

how do i hook up seperate idiot lights i bought some indicator lights today but im wondering how o put them on any help would be great???????????????????
I just wanna drive it that's it.
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

Tiko..

Any chance we can get a bit more information...

Basically your idiot lights are wired to the regulator and oil pressure sender.

T.
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