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david58 wrote:I wouldn't worry too much about the camber till you have the weight in the rear, and just adding weight will not give you a true camber reading without rolling it several feet back and forth so everything settles. Driving it would ever be better.

Sounds Good !.............I still have the option to move some splines on the rear end, and I have some adjusters on the front beam set to 'high',

So, lets leave it until I have some miles under my belt.

Thanks guys, Regards Slug,.

WOW
Just ran across this
Very Nice
I'll flag this for motivatin

Thanks '592,

What do you chaps that have shortened chassis do about cables /

I figure I could cut and clamp, but wondered if there are aftermarket cables available - I done about the average cut 400mm /

Thanks chaps, any help advice appreciated.

Regards Slug.

Ive seen people suggest a boat shop to look for cables in various lengths. If you do cut stock length cables, feed them thru and then cut and weld the end together to keep them from fraying.

there is a shortening kit that will do all 4 cables, EMPI or Bugpack makes it. The e-brake ones work but don't fit awesome, but its easier and prolly a heck of a lot cheaper than getting them made.

I'm in awe of this undertaking. Absolutely remarkable!

I'm glad you included some info on your axle boots. When I saw the pic of the axles extending out from the trans, I was VERY curious how you planned to waterproof that area. Very cool.

Thanks for the great compliments chaps,

Fuser, I bought one today, lets hope the mail man get get through all the snow we have in the UK at the moment !

Put the engine in, start to build it up now.



Here with the tinware getting fitted in



Here shows where the air comes from. I think you will agree it is pretty unobstructed, and not near the warm air.





I figured on doing away with the warm inlet heater thingy. The pipe had rusted out, and when I see it had been blocked and not working for years I figured I could live without it a bit longer.



Thanks again for your help boys, much appreciated.

Regards Slug.

Great progress, thanks for keeping us posted !

Clogged heat riser pipe is common. You're probably not going to use a stock exhaust system, so they won't be used anyway. Some guys try rigging them up to headers, but they really only work with a stock exhaust.

I dunno, i bet surfer (I can never remember whre to put the xs) set worked. That said, with an enclosed engine bay like that, as long as you have a good warm air intake I think it will run fine. how cold are you expecting to drive it in?

fusername wrote:I dunno, i bet surfer (I can never remember whre to put the xs) set worked. That said, with an enclosed engine bay like that, as long as you have a good warm air intake I think it will run fine. how cold are you expecting to drive it in?

Yeah, but he lives in SoCal. How much preheat do we need vs. what cold regions need?

anything regularly below 60 w/ some humidity, the preheat makes a pretty soild difference, but that is in a open engine car WITH manifold heat, I don't know how much the enclosoure changes things. If he is running the stock air cleaner, warm air intake is no big deal. I think you need atleast one of the two, and if you are running over water that may make the need more obvious.

I don't know how Mr.Slug is going to finish off the engine bay, but since the fan intake is coming from outside the engine bay he could just leave it all open. The whole bay would be warm. A stock VW motor likes to blow hot air down to the ground, but on a amphibious vehicle that route would be blocked. The hot air will be push over the engine and then u-turn and head upward to escape. Soon after startup, this engine bay will always be warm.

Thanks for airing the various opinions guys - some very good points being made.

I am finding this all a very useful education, and rely on you chaps to stop me doing anything to dumb. TBH, the car is just for fun - I cannot imagine that if it is really cold, I would want to be out and about. I also think the engine bay will be warm, for all the reasons already stated.

I guess I figure that as long as I introduce plenty of freash cold air throught the fan shroud and blow it over the cylinders - then the hot air will not only find, but be forced out by the incoming air.

Thanks for your continueing interest boys,