CopperBaja's Baja

Post by **david58** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:14 am

I like that valve better than the plastic one.

Post by **Leatherneck** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:37 pm

Good to see all the connection away from the spark producing device. Just make sure you check them once in awhile.

bajaherbie · Post by **bajaherbie** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:04 pm

just don't use a cigarette lighter

CopperBaja · Post by **CopperBaja** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:06 am

bajaherbie wrote:sounds like you are going to have to check out the dog logs for a couple of bolts.....

Nope. Not going there...

David58bug wrote:I like that valve better than the plastic one.

Me too. Saw the plastic ones on Ebay for cheap. I think the metal will hold up to the vibrations and last a bit longer.

Leatherneck wrote:Good to see all the connection away from the spark producing device. Just make sure you check them once in awhile.

Thanks. ...and herbie, I'll be sure to not use a lighter.

I'm thinking of sticking with the clear filter and making some sort of rubber hold-down for it...need to find somewhere to buy the filters in bulk. The local shop wants $1.50 each for them.

Good news is that I put fuel in it and after a day and a half, there's no leaking.

Sorry about the lack of video. Had a good time yesterday! I'll get one up soon.

CopperBaja · Post by **CopperBaja** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:17 pm

Progress...
You know it's been awhile when you have to search for your own username to find your thread....

I installed the gas tank and started on my glovebox...
I plan to mount my radio inside it...and hopefully leave room for registration and insurance papers.

Can anybody think of a reason that this big of a box would be a bad idea? I hope to use the stock glovebox door, to keep people from getting too curious. I also plan to bolt the radio to the box....be hard as hell to steal.

So I'm trying to get it running....
It will start, but won't idle. Is this the problem? I noticed the pumper? it's called in the book is jammed up against the alternator I installed. Is there a fix for this or do I need to get another carb? Mine is a 34-pict-3.

Post by **david58** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:28 am

There was a thread here about this in the last month. The best thing would be a carb spacer to raise the carb up to clear the alt.

Post by **Leatherneck** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:56 am

Jeff do you want it added to here? http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=106599 (Off-Roaders rides) That way real easy to find, btw good to see progress. The only problem I see with the wooden box are fastners that will end up coming loose. Does look good though.

CopperBaja · Post by **CopperBaja** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:26 am

David58bug wrote:There was a thread here about this in the last month. The best thing would be a carb spacer to raise the carb up to clear the alt.

The only spacers I see are for 28-30 carbs.
Ricko mentioned rigid vinyl tubing for a homemade one.....any other options?

I don't want to grind the alternator....it's under warranty.

Post by **david58** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:16 pm

CopperBaja wrote:
David58bug wrote:There was a thread here about this in the last month. The best thing would be a carb spacer to raise the carb up to clear the alt.
The only spacers I see are for 28-30 carbs.
Ricko mentioned rigid vinyl tubing for a homemade one.....any other options?

I don't want to grind the alternator....it's under warranty.

It is hard for me to tell how much the carb needs raised up to clear the alt. I am guessing about half an inch should do it.
Get out some wood and some glue.

Believe it or not, plywood can be an ideal material for constructing carburetor spacers. The thin layers of laminated wood, bonded with resin, form a natural heat sink. For example, a wooden Moroso spacer features top-quality hardwood plywood with a sheet of phenolic resin-impregnated paper bonded to both sides. This creates a durable product that can be used in drag racing, circle track competition, or on the street.

Plywood spacers are easy to modify to suit a given manifold for optimum performance. On the other hand, phenolic spacers are constructed from an advanced material similar to plastic that can reduce heat conductivity 10 times greater than aluminum for a much denser air/fuel charge. Obviously, aluminum spacers are still widely available. The advantage in aluminum is that it can be easily modified for a given application. The disadvantage is that in some cases, an aluminum casting can be porous. Because of this, several manufacturers now offer billet-aluminum spacers CNC-machined from 6061-T6 material.

I found this info half way down this page.
http://www.nhra.com/dragster/1999/issue ... ology.html

CopperBaja · Post by **CopperBaja** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 1:01 pm

Wood sounds like an option. I think I'll give it a try.

Post by **david58** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:30 pm

That ought to bring up some interesting conversations.

CopperBaja · Post by **CopperBaja** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:42 pm

David58bug wrote:That ought to bring up some interesting conversations.

or

Need to get a sticker for the bumper.

CopperBaja · Post by **CopperBaja** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 9:56 am

So...last night...took this:

Did this:

And gained clearance!

There's my temp solution!
I adjusted the flow 3 turns out and the idle 2 turns out and she started!!!

Now...I have to learn to adjust the 34....I saw a link somewhere...

My permanent solution is to cut my manifold from my old '67 engine and machine the mount.

Post by **david58** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:58 am

looks a little woody to me.

It works enough to see thats all you need, for a 1.3479 hp increase

bajaherbie · Post by **bajaherbie** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 3:55 pm

might make a supprt brace for under the stereo box, it might pop loose in the whoops...

and i dunno about that wood spacer

i made one out of lexan once and after a year or so it was kinda soft when i took it off. if i was you, i'd cut your other manifold up quick.....