68 Ghia WRX

[KR250]

Awesome! I have the same Wilwood assembly but different master cylinders, which ones did you use? They look quite a bit shorter. I was planning to do the same thing in order to move the pedals back as far as possible but also clear the lower A-arm assembly in front.

[dlamyle]

Thanks. I thought I might have seen them in someones build. I got these from Summit Racing. They are pretty small and light compared to the original unit. The ones on the brakes only stick out 2-1/2 inches from the front of the firewall. You could probably bend a line or elbow a fitting in there in under 3". The clutch with the built in reservoir is close to 4".

Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-1304 - Wilwood Integral Reservoir Compact Clutch Master Cylinders WIL-260-1304
Master Cylinder, Aluminum, Natural, .750 in. Bore, Universal, Each


Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-10371 - Wilwood Compact Remote Mount Clutch Master Cylinder Kits WIL-260-10371
Master Cylinder, Aluminum, Black, .625 in. Bore, Universal, Kit

[KR250]

Cool, thank you. I purchased mine a little while ago, they are designed for remote reservoir units which I had intended to mount up in the firewall area. I couldn't find anything smaller and they extend about 4" past the pedal assembly, so it sounds similar to your clutch MC. I like the idea of seeing the fluid level in an somewhat accessible area, but a smaller size could mean better pedal placement if there is anything.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-2 ... /overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-2 ... /overview/

These are a bit on the large size, and I had contemplated exchanging for smaller ones:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-2 ... /overview/

[dlamyle]

I think the sizes are of our MC are going to end up being about the same after I put a fitting on the end of mine. Your fitting to the line doesn't stick out the back like mine so you save some space there. Mine also came with remote mount reservoirs which I will mount in the trunk. I had one mounted on top of the old VW mc and it was a pain to deal with.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/ ... =260-10371

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/ ... o=260-6089

[dlamyle]

I got everything plumbed up and bled. Accelerator linkage will need to be cleaned up a bit but its soo much smoother than before. On my old system, I had been having issues getting my rear brakes to come on before my fronts locked which could have been due to a bit of air in the system. I kept front and rear systems completely separate and they both bled fast and easy as did the clutch. I haven't had a firm brake pedal in a long time so I'm very exited to see how it stops. Here are some pictures of the brake lines and plumbing.

You might notice the big solenoid on the front brakes...Had a case of the "while I'm at its" and I was tired of my berg shifter button not having a purpose. I'm sure I can find use for a line lock!

[KR250]

Nice work! How much clearance do you have to the firewall with the pedals fully depressed?

[dlamyle]

Thanks KR250. I'm 6'-01" and leg room is tight for me in these cars so I wanted them as far forward as possible. I have the clutch and gas pedals adjusted so that at rest they are vertical and when applied the clutch limit bolt stops the arm 1/4 inch from the firewall and the gas pedal stops 1/2 from the firewall. The brake pedal is adjusted as far forward as it will go (both pushrod bolts are against the balance rod) and it still leans towards me a bit more then I'd like but I'm not going to trim the pushrod bolts just yet. At rest the back of the brake pedal has 5 1/5" clearance and when pressed fully has 3 1/2".

[dlamyle]

Thought it might be time for an update.
Winter is not the time to get anything done especially when you are limited to working in a carport. But...my pre-existing rod knock got worse and I blew a head gasket so it was time for a new engine. I bought a JDM EJ205 and swapped the long block in. Only had to switch over my intake manifold, the crank timing gear and the one steel cam gear that the cam position sensor reads off. I had to get the engine tuned for the suspected higher JDM compression ratio 9:1 vs the USDM 8:1. I have no way to confirm it and I searched to the end of the internet and the "experts" there report it both ways but mostly confirm the higher compression. Which might explain the higher numbers I got when I did a compression test on all cylinders (170).
I was adding a methanol injection kit anyway so the re-tune was required. This allowed my tuner to add a couple lbs. of boost (to 22psi) and adjust my timing a bit. The car is now making an extra 35hp across the power band and tops out at 332whp. I feels better off boost too which I attribute to the higher compression ratio.
Hint. Before you go get dyno tuned test for boost leaks! My aftermarket throttle body came with a cardboard gasket that leaked from all sides. The champs at Mach V gave me some gasket material to cut out a better one and that saved my day.
Also. Don't change the diameter of the pipe at the MAF and try very hard to keep about 6" of straight pipe before the MAF. That little bugger is sensitive.

[ttriebler]

Freaking awesome! Got a dyno sheet?

[dlamyle]

Freaking awesome! Got a dyno sheet?

I know right? I'm pretty stoked. I was expecting 25hp for the meth so I'm very pleased. And it's safer for the engine as long as I don't run out of methanol. He couldn't get the torque numbers because of some issue with the lettering on my crank pulley and he shut this pull down early because there was no reason to run it out longer for tuning purposes. I could hear them doing the pulls in 4th gear, so when he came out he asked me if I had trouble with traction in third. Now I'm worried! Full size image is here

[ttriebler]

I am loving that. You are going to be in a world of wheelspin.

[panel]

Don't change the diameter of the pipe at the MAF and try very hard to keep about 6" of straight pipe before the MAF. That little bugger is sensitive.

Are you running any honeycomb or mesh in there at all ?

[dlamyle]

Don't change the diameter of the pipe at the MAF and try very hard to keep about 6" of straight pipe before the MAF. That little bugger is sensitive.

Are you running any honeycomb or mesh in there at all ?

Not at this point but I hadn't heard of that before now. Looks like an interesting option if my tuner thinks it will help I might give it a try.

[dlamyle]

Hey gang, The weather is warming up so I put some summer shoes on the GhiaWRX. I was able to squeeze Nitto NT05 235/40/17 in there without too many issues. I have done some fender contouring up front to maintain stock width on the beam and run spacers to get full steering and no rubbing (almost 1.5 turns of the wheel in both directions). The gap over the front tires disappears real fast when I have to slam on the brakes. Sliced up a previous tire pretty good to learn that lesson. Car really feels like its on rails now. I have to do some sound proofing though. More noise with this tread pattern, these sticky tires pick up every pebble and grain of sand and fling them around.

I am loving that. You are going to be in a world of wheelspin.

And btw, you were right. Full throttle was useless (but fun) on the cold roads and old all season tires. These have helped but I haven't been on enough road to really find out.

[dlamyle]

Decided to change up the exhaust a little bit. Last set up was too loud for street use.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjZ8WXYGxc4