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Yeah, my kidneys are not loving the gift I got from a PO---KYB Gas-A-Justs front and rear
They'd probably be great for a rally car.

You like the Monroes over the KYB GR2s?
(The GR2s are low pressure gas--the Monroes might be GR2s. The gas-a-justs are high pressure)

Wifey and I did ~150+ miles today shopping and stuff.

Surprisingly she didn't complain about the ride, although I see an AC install coming
May be doing something different with the exhaust too, just so i can fix the rear valence.

Night and day difference between the monroes and the gr2's. It's the sensamatic or whatever they call them, oil shock, feel like are valved just right. The gr2 shorties feel like they are valved for a heavier vehicle (i believe they are intended for barndoors). about $22 a piece from oriely, they had them the same day too. Hit my usual bumps and only one of them was barely noticable, i've been told they get a little softer after the 500 mile break-in period

In the morning i'm heading to my buddies shop and we are going to do the magnaflow...full 2.5" and polished stainless, mmmm, it's going to be sexy.

You went with the Monroe-matics or the gas charged Monroe HDs?
(oddly the HDs are cheaper)

I have a suspicion the GDs are really GR2s, so I'm ordering up some of the Monroe-Matics.
Thanks for making me buy stuff I've been looking for an excuse to change the fronts out.

If you look at the apps for the KYBs or Bistiens, the F&R take the same shocks.
I think I'll leave the Gas-A-Justs on out back, thy helped with 30 2x1' pieces of sod and dirt load hauled home today.

Had 10 cu ft of dirt in the trunk too.
Car looks good dropped

I'm glad I could help Pile

My buddy Eric welded up a sweet muffler today, and did the motor hanger mounts. Both turned out friggin awesome!







I even got a couple of vids.





Thats a 2.5" magnaflow with a crankcase evac. I still have a decent amount of exhaust velocity but it cured my issues with backpressure, I got to retune idle now

The motor hanger mounts turned out awesome, the welds would have looked a million times better if we dropped motor first, but it must have been 95F and there is no AC in the shop so that just didn't sound like a good time. Anyways it holds the motor nice and tight, and the design is super simple.

I know the idle sounds like crap in that first vid, but thats how my cold starts are untill she warms up...still got lots of tuning left.

I like the revised exhaust setup, real clean install. I need to get crackin' on my project, all I've done is purchase new doors,hood, and front fenders in the last month.

I'm really liking the new exhaust setup too. It really freed up the flow, before I could barely idle at 1500 rpm, I didn't change any fuel or timing idle cells and now its idling at 1100. Some tweeks and I should have it idling better. I am really loving the engine hanger mounts, I did my first couple burnouts. All I can say is WHEEEEEEEE!!!! This is going to be a really fun car

I just got my gixxer wire harness, I needed some inj and tps pigtails. Extra bonus, 4 coil sticks, starter relay, and a idle solenoid...mmm, I got me a few ideas...muahahahahah!

Hung the Monro-matics out front, they're about half the shock in compression vs. the high pressure Gas-a-justs, much softer in rebound, almost zero gas preload. (..I got from OReillys are low pressure gas shocks and made in the USA, definitely not repainted GR2s)

Helped ride quite a bit, thanks for the kick.

Exhaust looks great, plenty of room to add a decent collector

I frogot to mention those monroe's are "Made in the USA", I'm glad I could give you a swift kick once in a while PD

I'm happy with the exhaust, just need to get it coated then I can say the exhaust is done.

Today I'm going to get all the parts to finish plumbing up my crankcase evac and clean up the tune for idle.

supaninja wrote: and I got around to finishing up the fuel rails on those gsxr throttle bodies. I used the original composite rails, drilled and tapped them and got some 5/16" barbs off ebay. German braided 7mm fuel line fits perfectly.

Don't use the braided fuel line it's garbage. Ive Had to go back and find anyones car I used it on and change it out. I found some was already leaking. The rubber used is not compatable with the ethenol in our fuel. It dry rots from the inside and especially in your case, is not rated for fuel injection use.
Buy American made 7mm 0r 5/16 fuel injection hose and use good clamps. I have seen too many burnt VWs.

Ya that's a old post, I have since switched all the line over to 5/16" regular fuel line, and I am using the VW #13 fuel injection clamps on everything. The last thing I want is a car-b-que

supaninja wrote:





The motor hanger mounts turned out awesome, the welds would have looked a million times better if we dropped motor first, but it must have been 95F and there is no AC in the shop so that just didn't sound like a good time. Anyways it holds the motor nice and tight, and the design is super simple.

Do you have pictures of the mounts, where i can better see how their are mounted to the car(chassis)?
Reworking my mounts right now, too. The first was to much redneck
First I used the original T3 rubberdampers an exchanged the T4 ones with steelwelded ones.
But now i want to go with the T4 ones and mount the bus traverse to the chassis.

It's really tough to get under there and snap pics, too much motor in the way . I don't know how the other type 3's duct the cooling air but on notchbacks we have drain channels. Looking at it, theres a lot of bends and spot welds so I figured that would be the strongest point without reforcing everything. My buddy eric then welded some angle iron to some thick strap. He welded the strap all the way to the top of the drain channel. Of course I used a type 4 hanger bar and new rubber mounts. We preloaded it about 1mm too. The only movement is from the rubber motor and tranny mounts. There is a slight bit of vibration in the car now but it's no worst then the injected mounts in my honda.

Maybe piledriver can post up pics how he did his. he's using a t4 hanger with stock t3 mounts, my way only really works on a SA notch. It is a night and day difference, I'm haing so much fun now that I can safely get on it.

Note: I have a 73 so no frame horns/only nosecone and rear bar mounts

I took a pic of the rear mounts a few weeks ago when I upgraded to the late GM alternator, here's the center section with the Bus and added Vanagon outer mounts to prevent engine rock... These have metal stops, the most the motor can rock is ~6mm.
I thought I took a pic of the outer mounts, they are std late Bay Bus mounts for the crossbar, but trimmed down a few inches. They are welded on some ~2x4" rectangular stock to deal with the offset from the factory hanger locations, and the 2x4's are bolted directly to the hangers holes in the body.

(I'll have to look for the pics)

Thanks for the picture

Piledriver wrote:Note: I have a 73 so no frame horns/only nosecone and rear bar mounts

Same i have

Piledriver wrote: I took a pic of the rear mounts a few weeks ago when I upgraded to the late GM alternator, here's the center section with the Bus and added Vanagon outer mounts to prevent engine rock... These have metal stops, the most the motor can rock is ~6mm.

Vanagon-busmounts.jpg

Do the vanagon outer ones fit without modification to the fanhousing?

Piledriver wrote: I thought I took a pic of the outer mounts, they are std late Bay Bus mounts for the crossbar, but trimmed down a few inches. They are welded on some ~2x4" rectangular stock to deal with the offset from the factory hanger locations, and the 2x4's are bolted directly to the hangers holes in the body.

(I'll have to look for the pics)

Would love to see the pics

Have to get ready with that til 23th of june, because there is the big 50.HappyBirthday Typ3 convention for 3days at Volkswagen in Wolfsburg. Dont want to miss that

Munch

Pile- do those vanagon mounts bolt to a regular bus hanger bar. I like the idea of preventing motor rock/torquing.

Munch- Post up some pics from Wolfsburg! I'm super jealous!