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S200 sx-e. Some places list is as an s257 sx-e. Yeah, single scroll .63ar.

Thats basically the same I had and still have: 76mm exducer compressor is really all you need

Looking forward to seeing your build with the new turbo. I actually have a new S-252 SX-E with a .48 exhaust housing for my future build. Glad to see someone else running one. I was skeptical about buying it because I had not seen anyone else running one.

Had a chance to jump on a lathe at work today for a few minutes and was able to knock out a little needed machine for for my projects. I still have one more pulley to do for the mouse. Feels good to finally move forward a little bit on something other than house projects! Pulley on the right is the one I've run for years now, it was the first Jaycee that Mario had to deal with, we tried a few different ways to hold that trigger wheel in place, starting with jb weld, and tiny set screws on the perimeter of the pulley, and then eventually transitioning to the more standard screws through the back arrangement he currently uses. Unfortunately the wheel didn't sit super flat and had to be machined down at one point. All in all it was just a mess and I've always had an occasional sync loss issue I've just kinda dealt with. I figured I'd start fresh with a new trigger wheel. Today I pried the old one out and chucked it, then cut the sucker out for a fresh one. Pleased with the result. The blue pulley is for the next project...more on that later.

Looks great! Good to see some forward motion!

Well, Memorial Day here in the US brought about a few opportunities to spend a buck or two. Ended up with a nice new set of pistons and cylinders for the stroker. Gonna shelf the squishies for a little bit, and try out some flat tops.

Your Wisecos are 2xxx alloy, right?
How have the ring lands/gaps held up?(vs. miles/usage)

I have a set of old school Cosworth flat tops as well as 103.6mm JEs I have held up on using due to the buttery soft alloy...
My cars end up being daily drivers or at least end up in the rotation...

Those are the 33mm pin height?

Piledriver wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 11:22 pm Your Wisecos are 2xxx alloy, right?
How have the ring lands/gaps held up?(vs. miles/usage)

I have a set of old school Cosworth flat tops as well as 103.6mm JEs I have held up on using due to the buttery soft alloy...
My cars end up being daily drivers or at least end up in the rotation...

Not sure on the alloy of the Wisecos, but they have held up fine. Rings still move around nicely. I don't have thousands and thousands of miles on this though. I've put a few thousand on it over the years. The last year it was on the road it was using oil like crazy. It had a brand new set of rings. But apparently the valve job had gone way south. Heads are fresh now, wanted to try this new smaller ring package. The Wisecos had a 2x2x4 set. These are 1x1.2x2.8 or something like that. They are the same as the rings that JE recommended when we were designing my 87mm set for the mouse. Their salesman said that they would be really good for this application.
The biggest challenge I will run into with these is the pin height. Its 33mm rather than the traditional "b" 35mm. So the engine will get 4mm narrower. My current crank and rod combo didn't require much for shims to get my deck height where I wanted it. And that was using a case that had been decked. Now with my new case, and these new pistons I may end up with .1" of deck before adding my copper shims. Not ideal. So there may be more changes coming just to make these new pistons work correctly. We'll see.

Chip Birks wrote:

Piledriver wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 11:22 pm Your Wisecos are 2xxx alloy, right?
How have the ring lands/gaps held up?(vs. miles/usage)

I have a set of old school Cosworth flat tops as well as 103.6mm JEs I have held up on using due to the buttery soft alloy...
My cars end up being daily drivers or at least end up in the rotation...

Not sure on the alloy of the Wisecos, but they have held up fine. Rings still move around nicely. I don't have thousands and thousands of miles on this though. I've put a few thousand on it over the years. The last year it was on the road it was using oil like crazy. It had a brand new set of rings. But apparently the valve job had gone way south. Heads are fresh now, wanted to try this new smaller ring package. The Wisecos had a 2x2x4 set. These are 1x1.2x2.8 or something like that. They are the same as the rings that JE recommended when we were designing my 87mm set for the mouse. Their salesman said that they would be really good for this application.
The biggest challenge I will run into with these is the pin height. Its 33mm rather than the traditional "b" 35mm. So the engine will get 4mm narrower. My current crank and rod combo didn't require much for shims to get my deck height where I wanted it. And that was using a case that had been decked. Now with my new case, and these new pistons I may end up with .1" of deck before adding my copper shims. Not ideal. So there may be more changes coming just to make these new pistons work correctly. We'll see.

Always something when you get into these things! I feel like one minor change leads to an entire rebuild.


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A nice 86mm crank would take up that extra 2mm

buguy wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 7:07 am A nice 86mm crank would take up that extra 2mm

That assumes I'd stick with a 5.4 rod though. Not sure I'd want to stick with that short rod. I'd almost consider going the other way, either a 78 with a 5.6, or just buy a set of 5.5s for my current STD/STD 82. That would probably be the wisest choice.

.1" (5.5 over 5.4) would be 2.54mm. On paper, gunna need some shims. Might keep the pistons from hitting the crank though. That's assuming the piston/skirt itself is the same size as the SS that was in it.

buguy wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 8:42 am .1" (5.5 over 5.4) would be 2.54mm. On paper, gunna need some shims. Might keep the pistons from hitting the crank though. That's assuming the piston/skirt itself is the same size as the SS that was in it.

I have no problem shimming as needed. Right now I have .03" under the barrel, and .06 in the head. I'll happily add .02" under the barrel if needed. Or just leave the .03" and replace the copper with a .04". As I said, I'll build it dry and figure it out. Shimming is just part of life in the stroker world. I just don't want a big fat engine either.

Makes sense