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- No dyno this year, but should be 500-550 whp
- 900kg/2000lbs with driver
- turbo should join to about 600whp
- with cold water (no ice) and 1,5 bar IAT was 35°C / 95°F

Lean situation- I’d guess, at max boost & demand, the pump is having to create nearly 5bar pressure (baseline + boost compensation) & flow a lot at the same time. Pumps don’t make the specified max pressure & flow at the same time. Perhaps you’ll need a parallel twin pump set up?

Dual, parallel real Bosch 044s. Each individually fed by AN10s.

AN8 line to the rear. Should be good enough for the power level.

My guess is clogged filter or pump.

Will test everything..

bug66 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 26, 2022 6:51 am Dual, parallel real Bosch 044s. Each individually fed by AN10s.

AN8 line to the rear. Should be good enough for the power level.

My guess is clogged filter or pump.

Will test everything..

Yeah, that should definitely do the job!

bug66 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 25, 2022 10:01 am
- Can’t get the launch/anti lag option in the ECU to work. Some grounding gremlins gives the ECU ground always on the launch / ALS pin.

- last run the clutch slipped for 1000feet..

-


- need to setup the clutch slip and get an anti lag setup to work.

Hey mate,
Launch activation is just connection the right pin to ground through a button switch and activate that in the appropiate map. Its actually one of the more easy to activate options imo. Send me a PM otherwise and I'll talk you through it from my map/programm.

With launch control you can probably shave 0.3 sec from that time with your car..

If the clutch slipped you know there is ample power at least

Wally wrote: ↑Wed Sep 14, 2022 12:08 am

bug66 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 25, 2022 10:01 am
- Can’t get the launch/anti lag option in the ECU to work. Some grounding gremlins gives the ECU ground always on the launch / ALS pin.

- last run the clutch slipped for 1000feet..

-


- need to setup the clutch slip and get an anti lag setup to work.

Hey mate,
Launch activation is just connection the right pin to ground through a button switch and activate that in the appropiate map. Its actually one of the more easy to activate options imo. Send me a PM otherwise and I'll talk you through it from my map/programm.

With launch control you can probably shave 0.3 sec from that time with your car..

If the clutch slipped you know there is ample power at least

I know! Can’t you remember ALS rolling burnouts in the 67 I had?

I think it’s a combination of my line lock up front giving a minute earth signal on the negative lead anytime, and the steering wheel button doing the same.

Need to swap out the button on the steering wheel and trigger the line lock through a relay.

The 2 pins on the ECU sees a small earth signal, and triggers launch/ALS if they are activated in the ECU..


0,3sec shaved of the 60-foot should be easy. The 67 ran 1,40s.


Mexx is sending me a input shaft so I can test break away. Then I probably need to straighten both pressure plate and flywheel

Wow! A long long time ago since the last post, my deepest apologies!

But I have a good reason. My better half talked me in to getting a future crew chief, now 10 months and almost ready to either master the art of fabrication or tuning


I’ve been trodding the garage one evening per week, and the car is now almost ready to fire up before the summer. I’m guessing one more evening and the press the starter button.

Last 18 months has netted a long list of maintenance, ranging from a new clutch (still a stage 4 single disc) to some new filters, sensors etc.

Next on the list is boost by speed (or gear) and I really need a speed sensor. Best solution with the DTA is an undriven wheel speed sensor, and trying to figure the best way forward. What will trigger the VR sensor? Can it read the unused M14 threaded holes in the brake rotor? Or is it easier to get a ring laser cut and welded to the inside of the rotor? If the later, how wide do I need to make the trigger points? The ECU can read from 4 to 60 points per revolution.

I drilled 5 holes in my rotor for a VSS.
I have one on the right rear and one on the right front.



I added a VSS sensor to the back.

Clonebug wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2024 6:38 pm I drilled 5 holes in my rotor for a VSS.
I have one on the right rear and one on the right front.



I added a VSS sensor to the back.

Well that is a very good and easy solution! Did you space the holes perfect with a lathe or mill?

I made a simple jig off the wheel studs and axle hole using sockets and bolts and a piece of aluminum. I then used my drill press to drill the holes.
For the VSS mount I built a mount and used a hole in the rotor to drill through the mounting bracket.
I used a smaller drill bit for a pilot hole then drilled it out to I think it is 1/4 inch.

Smart! I'll swipe that idea


Are the holes in the rotor bigger than the sensor?

I can’t remember the exact size but they are 1/4 inch minimum and max of 5/16ths.
I think I used a Long drill bit I got from a swap meet guy selling surplus bits from Boeing or something… they are a stepped bit and worked well for the length clearance I needed on my drill press.

Speed sensor

Nice work!

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

Second steering wheel button added for MAP2/scramble. Time to copy over the main fuel and timing map and add 10-15% boost on the left button

Right button triggers launch to the ECU and front line lock through two relays.

Clutch management line lock is triggered with a small switch when in 1st gear.