From what I was told there were two Apfelbeck heads.
One 1.6L with 160hp and a 2.0 with 200hp. An engine with those heads is supposed to make 100hp per liter of displacement.
I would also like if those heads were produced again....but I can see the cost factor of getting everything else machined. It is good to know that the molds did not get lost and I am happy to hear that Roberto is building that engine with them. Many thought that they were lost and gone for ever.
Wally,
if you get some more pics of the heads please foward them.
Alex
911 heads
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Cam
- Posts: 554
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2000 12:01 am
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Frallan
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2003 12:01 am
Nice to hear.
I have contact with a guy named Ryan who is asking some questions too.
Just post your detailed questions and I will see if they can be answered in text and maybe even pictures.
I am now once again owner of my original engine built way back in 1977 and I can post detailed pictures of my solution, although several other and better ways have been posted on this site and the fantastic pictures and videos in the German sites.
Too jumpstart the main issues to consider is that you do need either to have a lateh&mill or some very good friend who can get engaged.
Then you need to choose approach on cam bearing housing, cut the original and cap the ends or alternatively cut an original housing in middle and weld them together, and finally bore/hone them straight.
In any case you will need to find a solution for your camshafts, cut, re-index and pin original camshafts or manufacture new from own blanks.
I would never had thought that the UK solution by using original camshafts and pinning would work but in fact it is proven to work well.
Own manufactured camshafts was not successful for me initially.
I wore down several of them prior to changing to a new material and hardening process.
Then lately in 1995 when I used tha car/engine in northern Italy for my daily driver in the winter, it happened again, this time I can not blaim it too much on the camshaft but rather to lack of maintenance.
So to conclude, there is no lack of experience or information combined UK, Netherlands, Belgium, Germany and Sweden, just ask the specific questions.
Good luck and go for it!
Ahh, one more consideration which would pioneer this in to a even higher level but as far as I know has not been done, TIV based!!!
Short stroke and 100 mm bore.
More work, yes but so much better.
Edit!!!! Russ Fellows is TIV based ...of course. I forgot. Does it work good?
If you missed that answer, it is YES.
I have contact with a guy named Ryan who is asking some questions too.
Just post your detailed questions and I will see if they can be answered in text and maybe even pictures.
I am now once again owner of my original engine built way back in 1977 and I can post detailed pictures of my solution, although several other and better ways have been posted on this site and the fantastic pictures and videos in the German sites.
Too jumpstart the main issues to consider is that you do need either to have a lateh&mill or some very good friend who can get engaged.
Then you need to choose approach on cam bearing housing, cut the original and cap the ends or alternatively cut an original housing in middle and weld them together, and finally bore/hone them straight.
In any case you will need to find a solution for your camshafts, cut, re-index and pin original camshafts or manufacture new from own blanks.
I would never had thought that the UK solution by using original camshafts and pinning would work but in fact it is proven to work well.
Own manufactured camshafts was not successful for me initially.
I wore down several of them prior to changing to a new material and hardening process.
Then lately in 1995 when I used tha car/engine in northern Italy for my daily driver in the winter, it happened again, this time I can not blaim it too much on the camshaft but rather to lack of maintenance.
So to conclude, there is no lack of experience or information combined UK, Netherlands, Belgium, Germany and Sweden, just ask the specific questions.
Good luck and go for it!
Ahh, one more consideration which would pioneer this in to a even higher level but as far as I know has not been done, TIV based!!!
Short stroke and 100 mm bore.
More work, yes but so much better.
Edit!!!! Russ Fellows is TIV based ...of course. I forgot. Does it work good?
If you missed that answer, it is YES.
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M-Owen
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:23 pm
Thank you for your response, I am going with a type IV engine , I had planed on cutting and capping the cam towers, going with chains instead of rubber timing belts. I think I am going with 95 mm pistons and Cylinders with a 71mm stroke crank and custom rods . I have a lot of planning to do and your help would be very apprieciated. thank you in advance
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Frallan
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2003 12:01 am
OK, sounds good with a TIV but why chains?
I can not see any advantage with chains when there are OEM wheels, pulleys and belts that fit.
In any case, the engine to look at is Russ Fellows in that case.
He/Bobtail did at least before post a lot of details from that build on the "Audi adress" in UK
In two weeks I am back in Sweden and then I will take alot of detailed pictures on my engine in order to visualize better a T1 with steel side plates.
I can not see any advantage with chains when there are OEM wheels, pulleys and belts that fit.
In any case, the engine to look at is Russ Fellows in that case.
He/Bobtail did at least before post a lot of details from that build on the "Audi adress" in UK
In two weeks I am back in Sweden and then I will take alot of detailed pictures on my engine in order to visualize better a T1 with steel side plates.
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Frallan
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2003 12:01 am
OK, that makes a little more sense if this is promotional in some way.
Otherwise I think you might be adding more complexion than necesarry.
With belts all you need is dust and safety covers, that is if you will run it on the street.
With chains and lubrication, are you not looking at more trouble?
Oil, dust and this aspect?
Otherwise I think you might be adding more complexion than necesarry.
With belts all you need is dust and safety covers, that is if you will run it on the street.
With chains and lubrication, are you not looking at more trouble?
Oil, dust and this aspect?
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Piledriver
- Moderator
- Posts: 22880
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
One of the most troublesome aspects of the 911 motors was the chain drive... Porsche fought with it for >20 years before they really got it right, and it still requires maintenance and causes very expensive headaches.
The modern Gilmer type Kevlar reinforced timing belts didn't exist when the 911 motor was first designed... so you could say Porsche had a reasonable excuse for using chains in the `60s, it was the most reasonable choice at the time.
Think about it carefully before going down that road... It's a solved engineering problem.
The modern Gilmer type Kevlar reinforced timing belts didn't exist when the 911 motor was first designed... so you could say Porsche had a reasonable excuse for using chains in the `60s, it was the most reasonable choice at the time.
Think about it carefully before going down that road... It's a solved engineering problem.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Frallan
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2003 12:01 am
M-Owen,
Whatever you do now, do not feel we are "trashing" you and that your solution is poop and our proposals are the only way to go.
Proposals and issues are very easily misunderstood over forums and attitudes can easily be mistaken.
I really do think that anyone trying something different is brave and I like it.
Intentions of most people are good.
IF someone wants to be mean or stupid, it will come through very clear but on this topic, no way.
Whatever you do now, do not feel we are "trashing" you and that your solution is poop and our proposals are the only way to go.
Proposals and issues are very easily misunderstood over forums and attitudes can easily be mistaken.
I really do think that anyone trying something different is brave and I like it.
Intentions of most people are good.
IF someone wants to be mean or stupid, it will come through very clear but on this topic, no way.
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M-Owen
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:23 pm
I am going with chain drive for size concerns, also I would like to use the cam as an intermediate shaft to drive the OHC shafts, I am making an drysump pump so I can accomplish this task. It's actually the only thing I have made so far ( the cam drive and oil pump setup. I still have to sort out the cam towers and cams. I get there
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Frallan
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2003 12:01 am
Michael,
95% of the details are all in these websites and posts.
Anything you wish to know more, just ask but compile what you see, choose your way of doing it and then most of it is in front of your eyes.
I do not mind to shoot details of my engine this winter but it is an early concept, so not the preffered way of doing it.
Should still be inspiring, I hope.
Engine has been very reliable over the 30 years in all different shapes that is has had.
95% of the details are all in these websites and posts.
Anything you wish to know more, just ask but compile what you see, choose your way of doing it and then most of it is in front of your eyes.
I do not mind to shoot details of my engine this winter but it is an early concept, so not the preffered way of doing it.
Should still be inspiring, I hope.
Engine has been very reliable over the 30 years in all different shapes that is has had.