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Now those are some bumpstops

Nice work. Thanks for the pics. Lots of info in those pics alone.

Great pics! Thanks!

Nice!

very nice build so far!!!
here are some pics of arms i did---there is a gusset on the inside bearing cup(some call it double shock mount gusset and in your case just cut off the part above the plate where your shock mounts are..and i beleive this gusset will help suport under your shock mounts on the boxed plate)
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/pro ... ts_id=2470
and a plate top and bottom on the outside bearing cup back to seam on arm! this helps keep the bearing cup from twisting in the arm! which is very easy to do especially when the stops are forward on the spring plates.... when the spring plate stops the tire/wheel want to keep going and the whole arm back there will try and twist and /or the bearing cup will twist in the arm!
you can see the inner gusset and so far only top outside one is done in this pics but you get the idea







the other thing i noticed and some i have heard did it on purpose-is the arms are upside down (swicthed sides) compared to the way a stock 4 bolt arm is on my car- my 4th hole is top and forward,
Again nice build!!!!!!

I've seen boxed arms cut up like that but never with a box added; yours looks like a good idea as you are still able to use the (more or less) stock shock location. I've got a set of boxed arms and I might look into that way myself.





I would like to find someone who is making the tube boxing like Turbo has (above). I ran into someone years ago that was doing this same style of boxing/supports but I haven't been able to find their web page again.





I have a pair of the non-lower shocks with Prowler tube boxing kits added but they are heavy (above).

http://1800vw.bizhosting.com/trailing_a ... 79_95.html

Bingo!

race-desert wrote:very nice build so far!!!
here are some pics of arms i did---there is a gusset on the inside bearing cup(some call it double shock mount gusset and in your case just cut off the part above the plate where your shock mounts are..and i beleive this gusset will help suport under your shock mounts on the boxed plate)
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/pro ... ts_id=2470
and a plate top and bottom on the outside bearing cup back to seam on arm! this helps keep the bearing cup from twisting in the arm! which is very easy to do especially when the stops are forward on the spring plates.... when the spring plate stops the tire/wheel want to keep going and the whole arm back there will try and twist and /or the bearing cup will twist in the arm!
you can see the inner gusset and so far only top outside one is done in this pics but you get the idea the other thing i noticed and some i have heard did it on purpose-is the arms are upside down (swicthed sides) compared to the way a stock 4 bolt arm is on my car- my 4th hole is top and forward,
Again nice build!!!!!!

Nice, I kind of dont like how the mount is hanging below the arm that worries me. I did plate the cup part with some flat stock I dont think they are in any of the pictures though but I did. I did swap the arms also so they are both upside down. This changes the angle of the stub axle to be pointing upwards toward the drive flanges resulting in less angle on the cv's. With doing that the rear tires tow in however at full droop kind of like a swing axle and this also gives you a little bit more ground clearance. I will take a pic of what im talking about this weekend. Really nice job on those arms thanks for sharing.

Ol'fogasaurus wrote:http://1800vw.bizhosting.com/trailing_a ... 79_95.html

Bingo!

fixxor- sounds like you got it going on!!! I have done so much reading on the class 11 site and talked to them guys at the races about building a bomb proof set of stock arms that i thought i would throw it your way!! keep up the good work!!!!
I read some poeple had problems after flipping arms getting it towed right at ride height! can't really see why just flipping the arm would screw with the tow enough that it could not be made up with the slots!?

The arms in the pic are for stock shock location! by far not the best way to go!!!! but i got tried of bending stock arms and didn't want to long shock it!

Ol'fogasaurus--- FYI-- my car is a coverted swing axle car i did--- come to find out on the swing axle pans the upper shock mount has a very curved bottom side to it, as a factory irs car has a straight bottom to it! so a stock irs arm on a swing conveted pan( with the irs brackets in perfect) with stock shock locations will hit on the leading edge of arm right in front of the seam on the bottom of that curved shock mount when the bump snuber just starts to compress and makes a sudden stop with a loud clunk!! so when i see those tube reinforced arms just beware in my case they would hit alot sooner on that top tube thats in front of the seam and take much travel away, only reason i'm not running them !!! and when i built the arms pictured i rasied the bump stop just enough and went to bus snubers.....solved the hitting problem............

jeff at kaddie shack has those reinforced tube arm kits or complete already done arms for sale!!!!
sorry for the hijack!!!
http://socalbajas.yuku.com/topic/2363/S ... hock-Mount

Thanks for the information. The kit I posted is not from the same place I found them probably 10 years ago. Not that Prowlers is gone I was wondering if the the tube kits were still going to be available.

I checked the Kaddy Shack and their site is still being built but I did mark the site in my favorites. Thanks.

Lee

Lee---http://socalbajas.yuku.com/topic/2363/S ... hock-Mount

I can't get it to work for some reason. I'll try later but thanks for the information.

Lee

I eventually got to see it but had to go the long way around. I think my anti-virus might blocking it like they did Prowlers before they went under. I also found this: http://www.azbaja.com/ForumsPro/viewtopic/t=8715.html

Lee

Ok the rear cage is basically done now. Need to make amber/warning light, oil filter, parker pumper, and firewall mounts. Need to make a oh sh$% bar for the passenger and some foot rests.







Here is a shot of the rear at full droop.

Cage looks real good now...except:
The shoulder harness mounts are too low. They should be about 4" below the top of the shoulders and at an angle of 40 degrees down from perpendicular to the spine or less. Shoulder belts mounted too low can cause your spine to be crushed by your own weight when you land on the roof. The lap belt on your hips should handle most all of the loads to hold your body "down" into the seat. The shoulder straps should keep your upper body from bending forward towards the windshield. The crotch strap is to keep the shoulder straps from pulling the lap belt up into your belly and rib cage as you tighten them.

Will there be any gusseting below the horizontal part of the rear brace mount at the rear bumper mount?

My question here has more to do with roll cage loads than bumper hits.


Otherwise it's a nice cage.