Opinion for this combo

[profe]

Thanks Piledriver

The pump case bore >pump body should be a .002">.005" interference fit.

The paper gasket that cames with the kit is 0,007" aprox (0,18 mm). I will buy a thinnest paper gasket and copy it.

May be I added the wrong picture. I was refering to this one

Pin bush detail.JPG

Do you thing the copper bush is big enough?

[Piledriver]

Thanks Piledriver

The pump case bore >pump body should be a .002">.005" interference fit.

The paper gasket that cames with the kit is 0,007" aprox (0,18 mm). I will buy a thinnest paper gasket and copy it.

I'm referring to pump OD/case ID.
The pump<>case gasket thickness is not critical.
DO verify the pump tang does not bottom out in the cam drive slot, must sometimes be radiused a bit, you never want the pump gears becoming the cam "thrust" surface, 1mm clearance min. Play-doh works to check.

The pump/cover gasket is, must be the very very thin one (if used at all)
Pump gear end play with gasket must be <.005" torgued, .002" better.

The rods look fine, the stockers are about the same and made of a lesser material.

[profe]

I'm referring to pump OD/case ID.
The pump<>case gasket thickness is not critical.

Ok, now I got it. Sometimes I missunderstand a part of the comments in the forum (coz my poor englis )

Thanks Pila

The last issue I wonder if will works are the small end holes. The OEM VW rods have a pair of holes looking to the big end meanwhile the SCAT only have one on the top. Will this affect?. I guess these are lubrication holes and I can't see they connect anywhere else. Will the pin be lubricated enough with just one hole?. It seemed CB Unitech + rods have the same two holes (same positioned) as VW OEM rods. Must I dill these holes in my SCAT I beams rods?. Your expierience will help me a lot. If any of you have fitted in the past the SCAT I beam, were they exactly the same I have now?

I attached the pics of this matter. First the OEM VW

OEM rods.JPG

And now the SCAT I beam

Pin bush detail.JPG

Thanks again

[profe]

Sorry my last pics were not clear enough. I try again with these ones.

Small end holes comparison1.JPG

Small end holes comparison2.JPG

Small end holes comparison3.JPG

Don't know if any of you fitted these rods in a WBX like this or is better to drill a couple of holes in the small end as OEM stock conrods. Any answers?. Please, tc?

I am ready to start fitting the engine. I was glad to see how weigths of pistons, wrist pins and rods are really good tolerances, at least that's what I think. Rods are less than 1 gr differences betwen them , pistons maximun weight differences not more than 2 grs and the wrist pins are exactly same weight (0,1 gr difference is nothing). I have non pictures but I meassured them in a precision balance. Here are the resaults.

New rods weight.JPG

KS pisntons weight.JPG

Wrist pin weights.JPG

As soon as I take a decission about drill -or not to drill- the SCAT I beams, I will start rebuilding my engine.

Thanks in advance

[Piledriver]

Clean them and install them.

[profe]

Thanks for your answer.

Just clean them?. I mean if you are talking about your own expierience. I asked a couple of machinist here in Valencia -SPAIN- and some of them told me I'd better drill the rods ... and some of them told me they are OK, ready to fit. Of course, none of them has never rebilt a WBX. That's what I am confused and I would thank a lot any words talking by the expierience.

I remember I read that Tc has fitted -years ago- the SCAT I beam rods rebushed to 24 when upgrading the WBX. Then it seems he found the CB a little cheaper -or any other samll advantadge- and started to use CB rods in his engines. What I can't find anywhere is if the CB rods has two drills as OEM or the machinist did them at the same time pin wrist job.

I searched some words about this issue and found that floating pin -as this one- in modern street engines use to have only one drill on top. And there is no problem at all. What I can't see clerary is if the "old" vanagon is ready to work with this small oil hole.

It would be a must if Tc see this issue and tell his expieriencie with the SCAT I beam rods

Thanks in advance

[tencentlife]

I did use a couple sets of Scat-modified rods awhile back, I don't recall them having only one oiling hole on the small end. The CB's I use now have the normal three holes. I don't know whether only a single hole would be inadequate, but I think if I had a mchinist who could do it, I would have the extra holes put in just to be sure.

[profe]

Thanks Tencent. I will do the holes.

When I have news I will add to this forum

[Pascal]

I'm doing some rod research and came upon this thread.

May be I added the wrong picture. I was referring to this one

Pin bush detail.JPG

Do you thing the copper bush is big enough?

It looks to me like they reamed the small end brass bushing to 24mm and left the actual small end of the rod alone. That would definitely maintain the original integrity of the rod, but I think the question profe was asking is if there is enough bushing left. It looks like there is not much of the bushing left.

[buildabiggerboxer]

They will be fine, i still see honing mark in the stock bushes after a very high mileage, ive also had T1 rods honed out like those to 24mm and they are going strong. many modern engine now have no bushes, just a coating.

[profe]

Thanks for your responses.

I closed the engine months ago but still isn't working.

Almost a year without the van -I've been very busy wiht another issuies-. As soon as I start again the van I will write feedback information in the thread.

You can see the whole process in following link (in spanish, but with a lot of pictuers)

http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?topic=206719.375

Now I have to fit a couple of new CV joints, fill up ref liquid and fresh oil, bleed the circuit ... and cross the fingers when start it again.

In a couple of weeks I will be on the road again (I hope). I will feedback information soon.

[profe]

Hi again

Finally the engine started up.

Some feedback information (after just 1000 km done)

- Iddle perfect.
- Sometimes revs faster than before -stree use-. Betwen 2000 and 3700 I would say responses a bit more than with stock cam. But only in low gears, not in 5ª on the highway. I guess is something to do more with the lighter rods than the Cheater cam, but not sure.
- Sounds great, clear. Nothing negative at this point.
- But can't feel any difference in highways. Whe you are 3500 rpm (about 110 km/h more or less), hills make the engien fall down as before, with stock cam. I would not say it has more torque than before (no more and no less, I would say is the same behaivor?).
- I could not meassure how much l/100 km. My little son always reset the odometer when gets into the van. But I would say drinks similar -may be a little bit more- than before. Perhaps any joint from the tank (it smells even when is half full), not worried about this point now.

May be I expected too much from the Cheater but my first impression is there is no much different betwen this cam and the stock one. It is a question of adjustments?. Any informations will be apreciated

More details:
- Radiator, thermosta, some hoses, are completly news. And cooling system checked out with thermostat laser gun and everything works Ok
- Air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs are news. These are NGK BP6ET
- Distributor is fitten in a 10 º BTC point (strobscopic lamp at iddle, vacuum disconected). Rotor and cap are news.
- Still use OEM exhaust system. Not new but in good conditions (no holes, no rust, sounds OK). As DJ digijet, no O2 sensor, no caltalized.

The resume is the engine runs ok but no much better than before. Perhaps still is too soon for it, still in break-in engine period. But I feel as no extra power from the sock engine. I read so much good from the Cheater than I feel now a bit dissapointed. I gues it's a question of some adjust to be done better but I would like to know them.

Could be the lifters?. I suffered a lot with them. The engine didn't want to start after adjust them a couple of turns. So I openend the screws a bit and let them in one turn. No responses. I checked out again and screw just half a turn from closed position. But the engine only started up when a I let the in "0 turns". Only with zero lash, the engine started up. But one day after began to clat so I had to check them again. Finally I set them 1 turn after zero lash -with engine warm conditions- one by one. This took me almost a couple of hours, but now they don't clat and sound anymore.

May be the adjusting screw CO2?. How many turns for a basic adjust from completly closed?. Now the screw is 6 turns from completely closed position. I have no information about a basic adjustment turns as reference point to adjust it.

Finally I have to check again the throtle cable. Yesterday I run at 120 km/h in the highway and I was at bottom throttle. Could be the cable needs more tension.

Opinions?.

Thanks in advance

[profe]

Hi again

The engine has run over 2.000 km or so. I have more information now from it.

It runs "fine" ... but I think it can be improved.

The response is not equal all conditions. Is a difficult to explain but I would try:

I would say it seems "coolder" first couple of minutes when started at the morning. You must wait a bit more now than before. Just passed one minute or so, it revs when you push the foot.

Next minutes -the temp still is under mid scale-, the engine revs clearly when you press the accelerator. I am talking about low gears, street use.

When the cruise temp is reached - in my gauge more or less the mid range-, you get better response pressing the accelerator slowly than faster. Is it rich fuel mixture?.

When cruising -at 3000 rpm or so- the response is a bit slowly (5ª gear at 110 km/h). But the wors part is when the road climbs up. Only if you are over 3500-4000 rpmk, the van can keep the speed. Under those rpm, starts to fall down.

Last feedback information: the van still does a 14,5 l/100km of average.

So I think there are two solutions:

a) Improve richment fuel mixture in all use conditions
b) Remove distributor and fit a real ECU controlled ignitor.

Yes, I am thinking in a MS. I have read about it in forums but still have some doubts (the only thing I really have for suer is that I am going to fit one, sure )

I will open a new thread in "Engine Managment" asking for help