Baja Bug Wiring (Complete Build Up)

69bajakid · Post by **69bajakid** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:46 am

Your a brave man! i have heat under my feet screamin "get your car in the bush!" so i went the "easy" route of the painless race car harness and the matching switch panel...i have yet to install it..we will see how painless it is..altho it looks like a peice of cake..

but you..people will see your job and admire it.. i dont even really know what im lookin at when i check your pics.. but im sure it will work out just fine! you shoulda seen my last home brew EFI wiring job! i thought it was "clean" obviously not!

i wish you the best! and im sure it will all work out..many a V-dubs are on the road with wiring that you would not use on a home stereo!

maybe you have other posts on the go that i have not seen...but i gotta ask.. what is your intention for this beast you own?

i thought i had a "race cage" untill i had a look at yours.........

Cale

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 4:41 pm

Cale... Somehow nothing on these things are "the easy way out"

As far as my intentions for the car... I blame you. After I saw the arms that Dave built for you and I ordered a set... that just initiated the snowball effect.

Other than that, just a "simple Mexico cruiser"

Thanks for the kind words, but you definately have one of the cars that I drool over... That thing is gonna be absolutely insane. Keep up the awesome work.

Steve

Kraut_n_Rice · Post by **Kraut_n_Rice** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 12:40 am

Blame shifter!

I guess everybody needa a scapegoat.

I needed something a bit more desert friendly that the beer can racer!

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:51 pm

After about 40 hours, I have the Control Panel about 99% complete. All I need to do is install the fuse block standoffs and "dress" the wires up.

So far I have been keeping a rough estimate of time devoted to this task. As said above, about 40 hours in the Control Panel and about 20 hours into the dash gauge and toggle assemblies.

Should be able to install in the car and start connecting circuits to see if this is really going to work.

Since it is a little hard to understand and to help me start connecting the circuits, this is a diagram of the fuse block and terminal strip circuit routing.

On the Control Panel, in areas that there was not a fused circuit, I installed spare fuses to be used if needed. The spare fuses were installed upside down for easy reference.

Also, on the Control Panel this is how the relays and electronic flashers are assigned. I opted for the electronic flasher units due to the use of LED lighting on the car.

...That should be as clear as mud.

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:10 pm

::Clarification Question/Learning Question::

In wiring the baja, I am using as a guideline these formulas. (posted in another thread)

10 Amp: 18/16 Gauge
15 Amp: 14 Gauge
20 Amp: 12 Gauge
30 Amp: 10 Gauge
40 Amp: 08 Gauge
60 Amp: 06 Gauge

I understand the variables in "combined" runs of the circuit (positive and negative). However, my question is concerning maximum ampacity of the wire versus the fuse combination...

In researching various documents on maximum ampacity, it seems that the above guideline formula provides a 2.5 to 3.0 to 1 safety factor.

Is that a fair assumption, or am I looking at it bass ackwards?

rickosuave1987 · Post by **rickosuave1987** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:40 pm

DG, just wondering where you got those numbers?

I dont have it home, but in the morning I will check a cheat sheet Ive got at my desk at work (I work for an electrical engineering firm). I have the recommended wire sizes. Wire size is not only dictated by the amps on the circuit but also on the length of the run. With only 12volts, the voltage drop is exaggerated a bit. I will find the sheet tomorrow and see if my numbers are different.

By the way, it is looking awesome.

rickosuave1987 · Post by **rickosuave1987** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:14 am

Ok, So I looked at my sheet and the numbers you have match up for the max amps. That is for THW copper wire, which im sure is what you are using.

Edit: THW not YHW-typo

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:06 pm

Thanks Rick for looking those up. I know that they are within limits, but I was wondering also... if following that guideline if it "builds in" a safety factor. If so, by how much.

Finally finished up the Control Panel and mounted it into the car. Still may play with the wires to get it lookin' good. However, my wife came out into the garage and said "That looks really pretty"

So as long as the wife approves, I must be on the right track.

I had some 1" x 1" solid aluminum square, so I just drilled it to fit the fuse blocks and used that as a stand-off. Now none of the wires are binding and everything seems happy.

Also, purchased a few of these to use as Ground locations. I will mount one in the rear engine area, mid passenger area, and front clip area. Each will be grounded and serve as a collection point of grounds.

Post by **david58** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:15 pm

She is wrong it isn't pretty that is art work there. Marvelous Job.

rickosuave1987 · Post by **rickosuave1987** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:12 pm

Im really not sure what you mean by building in a safety factor.

The sizes are just the most amps a wire can handle before the nylon melts...

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:41 pm

Thanks again Rick... like I said, it is quite possible I'm looking at it bass ackwards

But fuses blowing before wires melting... yeah, I can live with that

Thanks for the positive feedback David, I appreciate it.

rickosuave1987 · Post by **rickosuave1987** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:13 pm

Yea, you probably want to size the wire to about 125% of the load and size the fuse smaller.

Just out of curiosity, are you using THW or THHN wire? I probably missed it earlier in the thread.

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:30 pm

Rick, I am using SXL wire... or I have heard it called Cross-Link. Here are the specs on the wire...

These automotive wires are insulated with chemically cross-linked
polyethylene, allowing it to withstand temperatures of up to 257ºF
(125° C) without melting or fusing.

Insulation has a smooth surface finish.Operates optimally between the extreme temperatures of -49ºF to 257ºF and -45ºC to 125ºC at 12 volts. It is resistant to moisture, grease, oil, gasoline, and most acids and solvents.

Meets or exceeds S.A.E. specifications J1128. The SXL has a standard wall jacket, while the GXL has a thin wall jacket and the TXL has an extra thin jacket. Because of its ability to withstand high temperatures, all three are typically used in high temperature areas such as engine compartments.

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 11:56 am

is there an easy way to tell what all the wire abbreviations mean?

Timmy

rickosuave1987 · Post by **rickosuave1987** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:46 pm

DesertGuy wrote:Rick, I am using SXL wire... or I have heard it called Cross-Link. Here are the specs on the wire...

I see. With wire like that ($$) you can probably even bump the max amps up a bit.