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OK, first, what happened to pg 4? "no posts for this topic' ?? Aliens?

Leather, I made one of those Doodads of yours, and ran into one small problem- it's great for Types I and IV, but Type II cages are wider than the outer housing!
NYK.

Hmm you say, well looks like a mod is in order then. Any idea's? What about 930's a flaw to the plan this is, this is what a guy gets for not thinking it through.

Leatherneck wrote:No it is not a CV grease, I have to change every 4-5 months or sooner so I am trying Mystik JT-6 high temp Lithium grease. So far it has done me real well.

Why change so often?

I used to use OE VW grease bought from the dealer, but now I use Redline CV Joint grease. Even use it in all packable wheel bearings.

I usually end up breaking something or changing something and figure while I am at it might as well clean and lube. It is usually not a have to it is a want to deal.

FWIW... Datsun/Nissan replaced the U-joint/slip joint axles on the later, more powerfull, ZX and ZX Turbo cars with (you guessed it) CV's. This is commonly seen as an upgrade for the older U-joint Zs.

Gary

GDRBORETIRED wrote:Same principal as the old Nissan Z axles. They didn't survive as well a CVs mostly due to weight componded by extreame wear in the slipjoint. I'm guessing mostly a maintance thing ie. cost of parts to replace worn components. If you didn't replace befor it broke you lost places and/or races. Back in the day CVs and lighter Sway-a-way axles out lived u-joints and heavier slip splines.

One issue with the common slip-joint is that it doesn't slip easily when under load. So with enough force it will slip under load, but that accelerates wear.

This is why recently that 'Linear bearing" slip-yoke design came to be.

FWIW I'd suggest trying the Redline CV grease.

OK you guys got me curious and I did a little snooping on the web. I see a lot of cv's on the unlimited buggies and trucks. I won't make enough power to warrant u-joints, but the maintenence thing would be nice. Is the general opinion to not use the Nissan-Z set-up, even for a small stroker?

ntsqd wrote:

GDRBORETIRED wrote:Same principal as the old Nissan Z axles. They didn't survive as well a CVs mostly due to weight componded by extreame wear in the slipjoint. I'm guessing mostly a maintance thing ie. cost of parts to replace worn components. If you didn't replace befor it broke you lost places and/or races. Back in the day CVs and lighter Sway-a-way axles out lived u-joints and heavier slip splines.

One issue with the common slip-joint is that it doesn't slip easily when under load. So with enough force it will slip under load, but that accelerates wear.

This is why recently that 'Linear bearing" slip-yoke design came to be.

FWIW I'd suggest trying the Redline CV grease.

Will get some of the Redline CV grease, also need to find some good German CV boots or ones made in the States.

Since you mentioned boots...
Anyone know what angle stock type 2 boots can take? I've got a brand new set (don't remember the make) ready to go on, and both type 2 and type 4 CVs to choose from. I'd like to run the 4s, but if the boots won't take the angle...

subybaja wrote:Since you mentioned boots...
Anyone know what angle stock type 2 boots can take? I've got a brand new set (don't remember the make) ready to go on, and both type 2 and type 4 CVs to choose from. I'd like to run the 4s, but if the boots won't take the angle...

ANYTHING except BUGPACK, I could not get a set of those to last more than 2 months either type 1 or type 2 boots.

I finally bought a set of type 2 Empi boots and they have lasted so far, the Empis get the nod from a few of the VW parts suppliers I talked to.

"Linear bearing" sounds like a long version of a cv. The guys that run 4x4's call a cv two u-joints joined together (to achieve up to 80 deg), it's not what I would call a cv. I havn't seen a linear bearing, but I picture it resembling a fluted rifle barrel.

A classic linear bearing looks likethis. The bearing shell is free to both rotate around the ground smooth & hardened shaft and to translate along the shaft.

The "Linear Bearing" type plunging half-shafts have grooves in both the shaft and the 'bearing body' that the bearing balls are captured in so that the rotation part won't happen. So, yea, the shaft of one of these does look a bit like a fluted rifle barrel.

A double Cardan joint is truly a CV joint that has no plunge feature unlike the Rzppa and Birfield types of CV's.

Hey Crash!!
First, great site!
Second, are those CV angles you've posted the angle that you should set them at rest, or at full droop?

riddle me this

I am holding the 930 to type I stub sold to me by XXXXXXX
it is threaded at 3/8 inch 24 pitch fine threads (hex hed cap screw) looks like a CV stud
i tried all the combos at the hardware store in metric to find a replacement NONE
the LOBRO CV's have a 3/8 inch hole (the 3/8 hex head cap screw fits nicely)
the 002 has stock TYPE I metric CV studs (hex head)
does that mean i need a set of CV bolts for the inner that are METRIC and a set for the outer that are SAE? would i need to bush the metric to the 3/8 hole

or am i screwed... so to speak? I AM LEARNING TO ASK MORE QUESTIONS!!!!

ALAN

Ok seecond time this year (only rode twice) had a cv boot tear. So bought some 930 boots, thing is flange for 930 does not match up to T-4 CV's( we all know that) , so I took the rest of the rubber off the old boot and will use that as the flange to connect the 930 boot to it . Anybody see a problem with that?