Congrats on the awsome success! That sounds like you have some real power there! You are good with the video, so PLEASE take your wife for a ride with the camera, or that tripod!!! Keep us posted on the dyno #s. Great thread man. Good show.
PS. Look back in the thread, I warned you about those sucky header clamps! I'll bet you get more power out of a full merged 1-3/4 or even 2" with no J-tubes. I had the 1-5/8 version and had to trim the engine rubber seal so it wouldn't burn also - I hate that header design! Ehmm... Anyway, sorry about the rant.
Harney's diatribe - rocker geometry to install & beyond
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flatfour64
- Posts: 246
- Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 7:08 pm
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mharney
- Posts: 3365
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 12:01 am
Chris, I LOVE the clutch. It is a bit firmer than a stock (about twice as much pedal pressure), but it's not too much for me. It locks up tight and has GREAT progression.
Kelwa1, if they'll let me tape it I'm gonna tape the whole session, and then publish the best of the best.
Steve, thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to do just that.
FlatFour64, yeah, I don't like the header much either.. The pipe is thin, and the clamps are no good for holding a seal. I will try U bolts before I get another header. I got MUCH better results than Eddie Brown, but then, I am not boosting it either.
Some more update: 65s are looking like the right idles, but I am having a little trouble getting the idle worked out. It's harder in the car, but I'll get it. I have 160 mains. Seems to start to drop out around 6000 rpm, so I might want to play with the mains and air jets a little. That's what I plan to do at the dyno. I am not sure how much I should rev it. I would guess this cam is good for about 6500 rpm and then it will probably start to wane. John, if you are watching your input on that would be groovy. What should I expect up there?
I got the decklid on, and started asking for trouble right off the bat. I ran the 68 decklid (no vents) with no rear tin, and the heads heated up to about 375 and the engine started to ping a little and run low oil pressure. I pulled over and watched traffic for a little with the lid open until things were cool and then headed straight home. I then put on the aftermarket rear tin I had that has no fresh air holes and no preheater riser provisions, and it fit perfectly. After that, in town driving proved to run about 325 until I changed the idle jets, now closer to 300. No cutting involved on that one (Just FYI Jake). The front one really needs some improvement. I will probably make a custom one for it from sheet metal when I pull it the next time.
Oil pressure runs about 15 pounds per 1000 rpm up to about 60 pounds. Then it stops climbing and stays at 60 due to the relief piston doing its job. So far I have been running 10w30 Castrol. I don't have my temp gauge hooked up yet. I have to run another wire for it. The pressure staying up is a good sign though. No leaks yet. Note I said YET. I'm going to switch to either straight 30 weight or 15w40 when I change the oil. I have not changed it yet. It's as clean as when I put it in, and flow is excellent. It gets changed Sunday.
Not sure why, but I am really a little paranoid about the flywheel coming loose. It is torqued to 325 with loctite, and the clutch bolts are loctited too. I'm sure it'll be fine but it sticks in the back of my mind right now.
It's kind of humorous with the 165's. I just lay nasty stripes any time I lay on it in first or second gear.
Kelwa1, if they'll let me tape it I'm gonna tape the whole session, and then publish the best of the best.
Steve, thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to do just that.
FlatFour64, yeah, I don't like the header much either.. The pipe is thin, and the clamps are no good for holding a seal. I will try U bolts before I get another header. I got MUCH better results than Eddie Brown, but then, I am not boosting it either.
Some more update: 65s are looking like the right idles, but I am having a little trouble getting the idle worked out. It's harder in the car, but I'll get it. I have 160 mains. Seems to start to drop out around 6000 rpm, so I might want to play with the mains and air jets a little. That's what I plan to do at the dyno. I am not sure how much I should rev it. I would guess this cam is good for about 6500 rpm and then it will probably start to wane. John, if you are watching your input on that would be groovy. What should I expect up there?
I got the decklid on, and started asking for trouble right off the bat. I ran the 68 decklid (no vents) with no rear tin, and the heads heated up to about 375 and the engine started to ping a little and run low oil pressure. I pulled over and watched traffic for a little with the lid open until things were cool and then headed straight home. I then put on the aftermarket rear tin I had that has no fresh air holes and no preheater riser provisions, and it fit perfectly. After that, in town driving proved to run about 325 until I changed the idle jets, now closer to 300. No cutting involved on that one (Just FYI Jake). The front one really needs some improvement. I will probably make a custom one for it from sheet metal when I pull it the next time.
Oil pressure runs about 15 pounds per 1000 rpm up to about 60 pounds. Then it stops climbing and stays at 60 due to the relief piston doing its job. So far I have been running 10w30 Castrol. I don't have my temp gauge hooked up yet. I have to run another wire for it. The pressure staying up is a good sign though. No leaks yet. Note I said YET. I'm going to switch to either straight 30 weight or 15w40 when I change the oil. I have not changed it yet. It's as clean as when I put it in, and flow is excellent. It gets changed Sunday.
Not sure why, but I am really a little paranoid about the flywheel coming loose. It is torqued to 325 with loctite, and the clutch bolts are loctited too. I'm sure it'll be fine but it sticks in the back of my mind right now.
It's kind of humorous with the 165's. I just lay nasty stripes any time I lay on it in first or second gear.
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MASSIVE TYPE IV
- Posts: 20132
- Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2000 12:01 am
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mharney
- Posts: 3365
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 12:01 am
Yeah, I'd guess it's pinging, but my timing is set to 10 for idle and 24 full on. It may be that my vaccuum advance is pulling it too far. I already went to 65 idles, and it runs great with that. I'll get my wideband hooked up this weekend and see what's up with the fuel mixture. I may have to spread the timing a little and see if that works. I think some good dyno work oughta help me hammer out the power curve and get rid of the ping. It's very subtle, but if I let it drop below idle with *any* gas, it does ping pretty loud.
Jake, I called, you didn't answer. Will try later.
Jake, I called, you didn't answer. Will try later.
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MASSIVE TYPE IV
- Posts: 20132
- Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2000 12:01 am
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mharney
- Posts: 3365
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 12:01 am
OK y'all.
Ah... I just grabbed nearly 10 degrees of additional rotation by adjusting my throttle cable - NOW it will go wide open, and it terminates at the full end of the pedal travel. I threw a 15 lb sledge hammer head down on the pedal and bottomed it, cranked the throttle open all the way, and then pulled the cable tight and tightened the jam nut. I'm scared now.
Thanks for the tips Jake. I'll be playing more with it on Sunday. Tomorrow is an all dayer with my 3 year old... just me and her.
Ah... I just grabbed nearly 10 degrees of additional rotation by adjusting my throttle cable - NOW it will go wide open, and it terminates at the full end of the pedal travel. I threw a 15 lb sledge hammer head down on the pedal and bottomed it, cranked the throttle open all the way, and then pulled the cable tight and tightened the jam nut. I'm scared now.
Thanks for the tips Jake. I'll be playing more with it on Sunday. Tomorrow is an all dayer with my 3 year old... just me and her.
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mschilling
- Posts: 1692
- Joined: Sat Sep 21, 2002 12:01 am
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mschilling
- Posts: 1692
- Joined: Sat Sep 21, 2002 12:01 am
Ya, all you need is the seatbelt for the pass side rear. Actually just the one side (the one closest to the window, I used old retract Jetta ones) to hook the child seat rear strap into. It ends up working pretty good but she gets to kick the glove compartment whenever she likes, haha.
Last edited by mschilling on Sun Jan 23, 2005 9:38 am, edited 2 times in total.
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mharney
- Posts: 3365
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 12:01 am
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mharney
- Posts: 3365
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 12:01 am
And the plot thickens.
Few days ago I was talking to Jake on the phone, and working on the car, and playing with the throttle. The throttle was not opening al the way and i realized that hte cable was not pulled tight. After doing that, I got another 10 degrees or so out of the throttle shaft.
So today I am playing with timing and find that the initial timing is set to about 8 degrees, and I am only getting about two degrees advance. Yes. Two. So all that crazy power, and no advance.
I pulled the distributor (Mallory Unilite), and disassembled it to find nothing wrong, except that the advance was closer to about 8 degrees, rather than the 14 I wanted when I set it using hte spacer pins. However, my guess is that something was stuck or caught in there somehow keeping it stuck open or closed. I put it back together, and put it back on, and LOOK OUT. More throttle and more advance.
Now, in second gear, the tires are skipping all the way through the power band, until about 4000 rpm and then they totally break loose until I let off for fear, at about 6500. The faster the revs the harder it pulls. It's unreal.
I got it tagged today so I am not paranoid anymore. I got on the highway on the way back, and shifted to third at 70 (speedometer said, probably closer to 65). I let off in third at the peg, and it was pulling harder all the way up. I cruised all the way home at 75, cylinder head temps at 300, and a decklid with no vents.
I'm happy. I haven't even played with main jets yet. Hopefully dyno day on Thurs or Fri. When I am there I will bring my wideband to watch what it does too.
Few days ago I was talking to Jake on the phone, and working on the car, and playing with the throttle. The throttle was not opening al the way and i realized that hte cable was not pulled tight. After doing that, I got another 10 degrees or so out of the throttle shaft.
So today I am playing with timing and find that the initial timing is set to about 8 degrees, and I am only getting about two degrees advance. Yes. Two. So all that crazy power, and no advance.
I pulled the distributor (Mallory Unilite), and disassembled it to find nothing wrong, except that the advance was closer to about 8 degrees, rather than the 14 I wanted when I set it using hte spacer pins. However, my guess is that something was stuck or caught in there somehow keeping it stuck open or closed. I put it back together, and put it back on, and LOOK OUT. More throttle and more advance.
Now, in second gear, the tires are skipping all the way through the power band, until about 4000 rpm and then they totally break loose until I let off for fear, at about 6500. The faster the revs the harder it pulls. It's unreal.
I got it tagged today so I am not paranoid anymore. I got on the highway on the way back, and shifted to third at 70 (speedometer said, probably closer to 65). I let off in third at the peg, and it was pulling harder all the way up. I cruised all the way home at 75, cylinder head temps at 300, and a decklid with no vents.
I'm happy. I haven't even played with main jets yet. Hopefully dyno day on Thurs or Fri. When I am there I will bring my wideband to watch what it does too.
