Are you guys having warm up problem, I am??

NextGen · Post by **NextGen** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 7:30 am

Ray that makes sense about the Chrome reflecting heat and it not being from it's nice shine. Interesting ultraviolet light and infrared light (heat), I have learned something new THANKS.

OK next question I went to the Aircooled site and looked at the thermostat valve, noticed it has two in and two out lines. I would think it would only have to control the oil going to the cooler. Not the oil leaving also.

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 7:38 am

Two in an two out?

Isn't that he diverter that lets 10% go through the cooler at all times,
to keep the cavitation and pressure fluctuation to a minimum during
switchover to bypass mode?

Good design.

Leave it up to John, to offer well designed products to the VW community.

Don

type11969 · Post by **type11969** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 7:57 am

yup, thats the one. oil lines stay partially filled all the time so, like you said, no big pressure drop when the thermo opens up. It is a hefty unit too, I think it will definitely last.

Joe, if you buy one, let me know how it works out for you. I'm curious to hear how it affects your warm up, if you have similar results as I do.

-Chris

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 8:01 am

Ooooh...didn't know that existed! I need one! Learn something every day.
Oh...since we are here...Dr. star (I know you really wear the surgical mask cause you are ugly...thats not "really" an avatar..right?).....can anyone think of a particular reason why I can't use the two connections under the factory plgs...that are just to the left of the original oil cooler ports...to feed an oil cooler after using a block off plate for the oil cooler ports?
My thinking is, that they are a stright shot, I can enlarge them about .060"...and weld up the original oil ports and them ream the passages from the two ports I am speaking of to get rid of any cavitation from the ports intersecting thoil line at 90*. Thoughts?....ridicules? Ray

type11969 · Post by **type11969** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 8:28 am

meethinks Jake might do exactly that when he full flows the case, he obviously blocks off the stock oil filter too. Could be wrong though.

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 9:08 am

raygreenwood wrote: Ooooh...didn't know that existed! I need one! Learn something every day.
Oh...since we are here...Dr. star (I know you really wear the surgical mask cause you are ugly...thats not "really" an avatar..right?)

BUSTED me Ray! Go here for a pic of the REAL me!
http://profiles.yahoo.com/DStar5000

raygreenwood wrote: .....can anyone think of a particular reason why I can't use the two connections under the factory plgs...that are just to the left of the original oil cooler ports...to feed an oil cooler after using a block off plate for the oil cooler ports?

I don't havea block in front of me, but I think they are too close to drill
and tap....of course, there always the weld ,grind, drill and tap
procedure.....

raygreenwood wrote: My thinking is, that they are a stright shot, I can enlarge them about .060"...and weld up the original oil ports and them ream the passages from the two ports I am speaking of to get rid of any cavitation from the ports intersecting thoil line at 90*. Thoughts?....ridicules? Ray

Good idea Ray! Now what about that bypass passage in the block..........

Don

Post by **Piledriver** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 10:04 am

Dstar, you look ... exactly as I expected!;-)

(I admit to being VERY afraid to click that link...)

Max Welton · Post by **Max Welton** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 10:27 am

Marc wrote:
Tin Blister wrote:I've always wondered how the air flap thermostat was made to fail open. If expanding gas forces the bellows to expand, opening the flaps, what happens when the bellows develop a leak? How does the bellows fail in the expanded position?
It's under partial vacuum - the pressure inside is lower than atmospheric -which holds it in a compressed state in resistance to the "spring" of the pleats. If it leaks, it expands.

Yep. Good unit on the left, failed one on the right.

http://66.225.214.60/ghia/MVC-552F.JPG

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 12:37 pm

Piledriver wrote:Dstar, you look ... exactly as I expected!;-)

YEP! Just anuther azz-hole......

Piledriver wrote: (I admit to being VERY afraid to click that link...)

As well you should be.......

Some folks DO have a sick sense of humor.

Don

NextGen · Post by **NextGen** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 1:14 pm

Getting back to the aircooled.net thermostat unit. RAY see you taught me chrome I taught you Thermo ( me too).

Man if I can figure out how to fit that baby in my short lines it will be amazing. Actually if I know about this thing when I built the engine I would have removed the two hose fittings on it and also removed the two hose fittings on my oil cooler adaptor in the fan housing and mated them together with small pipes then I would just run the hoses to one side of the thermo. Now it may be a major task. Have to go look.

Joe

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 1:30 pm

NextGen wrote:Getting back to the aircooled.net thermostat unit. RAY see you taught me chrome I taught you Thermo ( me too).

Man if I can figure out how to fit that baby in my short lines it will be amazing. Actually if I know about this thing when I built the engine I would have removed the two hose fittings on it and also removed the two hose fittings on my oil cooler adaptor in the fan housing and mated them together with small pipes then I would just run the hoses to one side of the thermo. Now it may be a major task. Have to go look.

Joe

Nope! Can't hard mount it!

You gotta have RUBBER on BOTH sides of the unit!

Don

Plastermaster · Post by **Plastermaster** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 4:00 pm

How about rigging up a way to run your gas heater to the engine bay. The fan will then suck the warmer air through the shroud. Of course you will want an easy way to switch it back and forth. For years we have been taking heat from our engines to warm the cab. Its time to give some back.

Ron

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 7:17 am

Nice picture Dstar....I told everybody you were a hunchback with no neck....but they wouldn't believe me!

I am working out the oil cooler stuff right now. I think I can put the hoses I need on the ports I mentioned. Yup...it may take a little welding...it may also take some creative fittings to maintain the inner diameter of the ports. The hoses on mine will be short as I am going to hang the cooler and the fan right behind the firewall near the fuel pressure regulator. With some shoehorning...I should just have room on a 412 right below the heater. I have a sandwich adaptor for the filter...that feeds a small bore tubing ring on top of the engine....that feeds my pistons/ lifter/ rocker shaft squirter assembly. Ray

Post by **Piledriver** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 10:40 am

BAck on topic...

1: Joe, what oil are you running?
Are you running a HP relief spring? Stock pump or 30mm?

2: If the oil tstat fails closed, no cooler flow doesn't mean pull over, it just means keep an eye on the temperature...
Pulling over would likely not be required, slow down at worst.
At 6below, it might be a feature...

NextGen · Post by **NextGen** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 10:04 pm

Piledriver,

OK
20w50 Mobil One- had the same problem with stright 30w dino. The engine you have to keep in mind is a 914 1.7 block and heads with 2.0 dished pistons and 71mm 2.0 crank and rods. The 71mm crank brings the dish pistons up a bit in compression and the small 1.7 heads combustion chambers also help in that dept. I figured about 8.4 to one.

Stock FI cam ( It was a new engine, what did I know back in 1990 ).

Stock Pump

Stock Pres. Relief Valve.

As for it failing and not having to pull over?? Not many guys keep their eye on the temp gauge. By that time it may be too late. That's why I said a audible device may be the way to go.

Joe