wine country ghia wrote:Excellent tuturial Max thanks! yeah I just ordered the same tool I like the metal tape idea I was just going to paint it this may sound like a stupid question how did you calculate 5/8 turns?
Thanks,
-Eric
I just eyeballed it. It's easy to spot whole quarter-turns and that looks to be just about half way between the 1/2 and 3/4 points.
One could also measure the angle on a print-out of the digital image using a protractor.
Ok removed heads pistons and cylinders pistons look pretty good no cracked rings ect a little bit of carbon on the tops but not too bad.
waiting on deck height tool and head cc kit to get here so i can figure out what spacers I'll need also I noticed there seems to be allot of side to side play on my connecting rods is that bad?
Rod sideplay spec is .004-.016" with a wear limit of .028". Right around .012" makes me happy.
I've known people who hung 1600 rods on a 1200 crank, which creates an obscene amount of sideplay - but their engines still ran. Not good for oil pressure....
So I should be dialed right in there thanks guys! Still need to finish the assembly but so far so good!. Oh also I reported the case model as the wrong one the case number says AS41 not AS21. It has two oil relief plugs.
Perfectly awsome runs quiet and smooth almost scary smooth. Oil temp is hovering a hair above 180F with ambient temps around 58F. I am getting a metalic tapping sound under acceleration I think the valves need to be adjusted I hope. I ordered an oil temp sender that goes in the front oil releif plug sport I think the readings will be more accurate right now I'm taking temps from the 'T" sender which I don't trust too much. Oh what is the best way to ensure the rings seat well is there any break in restrictions?
My engine combo:
1600cc SP
85.5mm
PICT30/31 carb 127.5 main jet
69mm crank
stock cam
VW MEX dual header echaust system
compression 7.6:1
Good job Eric! Sounds like you are just about there.
That sound when accelerating could be a number of things. I've had small exhaust leaks that sounded remarkably metalic and would only show up under load.
On the valve lash, I would stay on the loose side for a couple hundred miles. Sometimes the cylinders/heads/valves settle in a bit and you don't wan't to run out of lash. You might take a look at the rocker assemblies just to make sure all the washers and clips are still in place.
There seem to be a number of ideas on how to get the rings to seat properly. I personally don't do anything special. I do perform periodic leak-down tests to verify that they are seating, however. My new engine had readings in the 50% range on the bench. Within 100 miles 3 cylinders were down to 5% (#2 took a little longer for some reason).
Yeah I adjusted the valves before putting the motor in. I took it for a short test drive and parked it for the night. Checked the vales this morning one valve RF was really tight one valve RR was tight and one valve LF was tight readjusted and everything seems quiet now I'll monitor things for a bit to see how it goes well thanks for your help and Marc too yeah it running really good lots more power though I think I need to run 89 I'm getting a little pinging as Marc said 7.4 is about the max for 87 right?
It's easy to spot whole quarter-turns and that looks to be just about half way between the 1/2 and 3/4 points.
