Spark issues

[56rag1914cc]

I also learned a lot about ignition...everything happens for a reason!

[RHough]

I also learned a lot about ignition...everything happens for a reason!

That is a good attitude to have. Glad you got it figured out!

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Glad to hear that the end fix was that simple. I run a blue coil with a Pertronix conversion loaded into an 009 also. You are going to find out that just about the time you think you generally got electrical things figured out... you will find out you don't; there is always something new that comes up to drive you nuts . One of many the reasons to call out the STF Guru's.

Now go out and enjoy the pudding out of your toy.

Lee

[SCOTTRODS]

I also learned a lot about ignition...everything happens for a reason!

And Welcome to STFU... (Shop Talk Forums University)...

[56rag1914cc]

Thanks again....now i get to learn how to time with a strobe light. the 7.5 degree after top dead center test light time method just isnt doing the trick for the svda. To much popping

[Piledriver]

Disconnect/plug the vacuum line at the carb, rev engine to ~3500 rpm, Set the max timing to ~32 (you may need to play with this, but 32ish is usually about right for a T1)

Plug the vac advance line in, it should pull another ~15 degrees at high vacuum/low load, but the engine actually needs it under those conditions.

Make sure you are sure TDC is TDC...

BTW---what carb model etc?
Some setups will not work well with the SVDA.
(but it's still better than a 009)

[Marc]

The "32° total" method is normally used for the 0 231 178 009 centrifugal-advance distributor (and the advance on those is "all in" by around 2500 RPM).
For an SVDA the "factory" timing (either static or at ~875RPM idle with vacuum line disconnected) should be 7.5° BEFORE TDC...that will yield around 42° total at light load above 3800 RPM. Since the centrifugal component may be 20-25°, and the vacuum component may be 8-12°, there's some variation from one distributor to the next - by setting it to 32° @3800 you assure that you're getting about the maximum possible from the centrifugal component.
The distributor is calibrated for the ported vacuum signal provided by the 49-state 4-speed model of the 34PICT-3 carburetor. Other 34PICT-3s (and California 34PICT-4s) don't have the exact same signal, but it's close enough. If you have one of those Brosol H30/31PICT "universal replacement" carbs the signal's not strong enough to get the most out of the SVDA (it'll never reach max advance under any normal driving condition) - you can get away with a few degrees more initial timing but make sure that the total with the hose off isn't over 32° @2500, same as you'd do for an 009.

The vacuum line should be connected to the ported vacuum nipple on the LH side of the carb - NOT manifold vacuum or the nipple(s) on the carb which points rearward, and it should have a "loop seal" in it to prevent vapors from condensing and collecting in the diaphragm.

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm#A1974MFD

[56rag1914cc]

The "32° total" method is normally used for the 0 231 178 009 centrifugal-advance distributor (and the advance on those is "all in" by around 2500 RPM).
For an SVDA the "factory" timing (either static or at ~875RPM idle with vacuum line disconnected) should be 7.5° BEFORE TDC...that will yield around 42° total at light load above 3800 RPM. Since the centrifugal component may be 20-25°, and the vacuum component may be 8-12°, there's some variation from one distributor to the next - by setting it to 32° @3800 you assure that you're getting about the maximum possible from the centrifugal component.
The distributor is calibrated for the ported vacuum signal provided by the 49-state 4-speed model of the 34PICT-3 carburetor. Other 34PICT-3s (and California 34PICT-4s) don't have the exact same signal, but it's close enough. If you have one of those Brosol H30/31PICT "universal replacement" carbs the signal's not strong enough to get the most out of the SVDA (it'll never reach max advance under any normal driving condition) - you can get away with a few degrees more initial timing but make sure that the total with the hose off isn't over 32° @2500, same as you'd do for an 009.

The vacuum line should be connected to the ported vacuum nipple on the LH side of the carb - NOT manifold vacuum or the nipple(s) on the carb which points rearward, and it should have a "loop seal" in it to prevent vapors from condensing and collecting in the diaphragm.

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm#A1974MFD

So if I am reading correctly...

1. Static time to 7.5 before TDC....is currently 7.5 after TDC.

2. Then set with strobe to 32 @ 3800rpm. I dont have a tach on timing light, just do a best guess? Do you recommend better timing guns?

I am currently running dual Weber 40s with the vcauum port. The vacuum port has a flat blade screw on the end, should i remove the screw all together?

I love getting all this knowledge!!! Thanks guys and have a good night

[Marc]

Since you don't know if the vacuum signal from the carbs is ideal, following Pile's procedure would be advisable. Set the initial timing to 7.5° BTDC, then with no vacuum advance connected, rev the engine out until the timing stops advancing (theoretically that happens at ~3800RPM) - it should be between 27.5 and 32.5°, and go higher by another 8-12° when the hose is connected.
If the timing advances when you connect the hose at idle, the vacuum signal is too strong (or it's manifold, rather than ported vacuum)...best to leave it off if you drive before resolving that issue.

[56rag1914cc]

Got it, thanks!!!

[helowrench]

pro tip.
get one of the females to loan you a bottle of white and a bottle of colored with glitter nail polish
paint a. white mark at the 0 or tdc.
now paint one exactly opposite at 180 or bdc.
(those are aids for valve adjustments)
then put a glitter mark at 7.5BTDC, and a glitter mark at 32btdc (i did the math, and measured it out)

the glitter lights up under the strobe and makes it not only easy to see but actually hard to miss.

[56rag1914cc]

Is there any way to get 32 bdc without use of strobe light? I have currently at 7.5 btdc. Can i just simply go to 32 the same way i statically did 7.5?

[Marc]

No. Without a strobe (or old-school neon timing lamp) there's no way to see what the timing setting is on a running engine.

The good news is that the centrifugal-advance mechanism's characteristics are normally quite stable, so if you can borrow a strobe long enough to set the maximum centrifugal advance, then note what initial timing that results in, you can get away with using the static method thenceforth. Odds are that 7.5° BTDC initial is going to be very close for most SVDAs.

http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,325291
...these make a dim, orangish light that makes it hard to see the timing marks unless the room is dark, but they were the only game in town for many years and will do the job - and since there's almost nothing to them but a neon bulb, there's not much that can go wrong.

[Piledriver]

Most FLAPS will let you use a nice loaner timing light in the parking lot for free, or "rent" you one for retail price.
(fully refundable)

[56rag1914cc]

Thanks guys, Ill be honest Ive never used a strobe and maybe just not confident in what I dont know. I have a buddy with a strobe and I also just ordered a digital one.

I will be reading in the meantime and youtubing to try and get smart.

In a nutshell, point light at TDC mark on engine case...move distributor until timing light shows the 27.5 - 32 range For svda...