Poor Man 4 seater.

[rickosuave1987]

Hey ricko depending on when you tear into yours maybe you can have the arms in the pics with the drive flanges and axles. I going to start builing another set of arms with the 3/4" heim for the spring plate. I'm not repairing or replacing this trans so when it goes it's bus time. Here is where I'm at. Added the last bars to the front today. Had waited until I had the steering shaft was in to diagonally brace the front. I added base plates when welding to the tunnel. All the is left upfront is the headlight mounts and limit stops on the beam. I think I am going to use pin and hook style along with a strap. Anyone have any unique or cool stop ideas. I tried a few searchs to no avail. Oh, I am considering cutting off the entire spring plate, turning some 1/4" wall DOM to fit in the tor. housing and mount the heim there. Waste of time? Should I leave it and bolt a plate to the end and call it good?(with a turned bung of course)

Dang man. This thing is looking awesome. As for the bump stops, Did you want to just go with some urethane ones and fab a mount? If youve got some change burning in your pocket you could get some air bump stops http://www.aa-fab.com/item-BIL-BMP-B46-9014.html.

[Getrdone]

I'm now deducting horsepower everytime I put something in it! I may need to go watercooled to get it to move. I have 250/350 front and 350/400 in the rear so if it's not a little stiff, I'm a little piggy! I'll hit the scales when it's rolling. Oh, Ricko what are you doin up so early, you graveyard?

[rickosuave1987]

Oh, Ricko what are you doin up so early, you graveyard?

No. Just I had just got back from the movies with the girlfriend. Didnt feel like sleeping so checked out STF. Now, Im up and going to start on that beam.

[The Wild Kids]

You have done an excellent job in your build Keep up the good work and get some more Joe to drink, I like the new and diffferent coffee blends as well.

The Wild Kids

[Getrdone]

Ok, I tried something a lttle out there. Is this too far out? I made them so I can trim them off and add a pin if it is too out there. They work great. Ill put the rest of the front together and decide. I made a cool drawing of eyes and shark teeth to put on them if I keep them long. Tomorrow I will start another jig for coli-over conversion 3x3's. In another post I heard someone trying to get the angle of the front mount. This is difficult due to it's sensitivity a degree or two does make a difference. This is critical because if you screw it up, while they may look bitchin, you will be irate when you have 3* positive camber at ride height. Worse if it grows out to to 8* on max. droop. There is a critical point at which too much angle in the mount results in a radical arc deviation during it's stroke. This is due to the angle from centerline. Exaggerate the mount and the arc will swing way positive on max. compression and will flatten out on droop. It's a crazy relationship on how far you can go before you bind up and things just wont work right. What's even more difficult is that mistakes are not easily detected to the eye. There are ways to build your own arms but if it's to save money forget it. I wanted a arm with less positive camber than most everyone puts in theres. The mass produced arms take a conservative aproach I believe. We will see as I have'nt tested mine. I have learned a lot about what doesn't work though!

[Leatherneck]

Getrdone, it is looking sharp, have to tell ya you are slowing down. Great Job all the way around.

[scott the viking]

Was wondering if you thought about going with a dual shear mount up front for the shocks?

[72bajaben]

so how much would it cost to get a front end like that built? very nice work though.

[Getrdone]

I figured the gusset would be enough, think it needs more? I was thinking of maybe a strut brace between the two. The cost? well figure about 800 in the shocks, 400 in the rack and tie rods. 700 in the arms and spindles. 180 in brakes, bearings and seals. 50 in beam bushings. Built the beam. and another 50 in misc. It's depressing when you add it up. I was going to make my own spindles and arms originally but my time added up to more than I could buy them for. If you look at the lathe time alone for each arm it starts looking good to spend 300 on a set of tweeds. How tweed and others make any money selling front or rear arms for 300 amazes me. I hate to think what my insurance would be if I told them I was making off-road suspension parts. Typically you add 100% to get a retail price. I think in the VW world profit margin is much narrower. They just dont seem to be a high profit item. Liability is also way to high regardless of the "off-road use only--racing is dangerous waiver". If you built it your pretty much liable unless the customer performed some kind of grossly neglegent or abusive/destructive act. I think tweed and eagle have it right by sticking to a narrow product line they can be most efficient at.

[Getrdone]

Anyway I modified the rear arms I had made already to use a rod end and called it good. I want it on the ground this weekend. My family is ready to go for a ride. It has to be tested and ready for baja mid Feb. I watch the caravans heading out to the desert every weekend and it makes my balls itch! I need to be done! Im going on two months now! I think Im losing control. Huh, what ,now , Aw frick got do my husbandly deeds. Getrdone out!

[Getrdone]

Here is a closer look at the gusset for the shocks. As for my shirts, I still have sleeves but I was sitting at red light going fur parts and the homeless guy pushing his cart in front of me was wearing nicer clothes than me!

[Getrdone]

Today I plan to get the left side started. I dont look forward to removing the wheel well mount/sheet metal. I still need to finish the tabs on the arm and brace the upper mount. Things are really tight so progress is slow and tedious. Those dam shocks are heavy! I bleed the nitrogen to about 2 psi. and used one spring to run it through it's travel. I may need to clear the lateral side a bit on the body to allow for some deflection. I also plan on double shearing the rod end.

[Getrdone]

correct me if I am on crack. To set limit straps, let'r droop with the axles in and CV's and feel for the bind then back it up a bit. I can tell I have more droop than CV's have angulation (if thats a word). Jounce is set to save the fenders and not hit the ground at full compression. I definately could not have used a 14" this vertical. (I could have but it would be a waste of money and those that know better could tell tool was bigger than job). Did'nt git jack dun today, I think I'll call tumarrow a holiday (justify working on my stuff). Oh its 35* here and the Chargers Suck.....they remind of the first time I almost got a blow job!

[scott the viking]

Yeah...you pretty much got it...Just remember that the straps will stretch....I think it's like 1 inch for every foot or something, so take that into account.

[david58]

Was wondering if you thought about going with a dual shear mount up front for the shocks?

Here is a closer look at the gusset for the shocks.

That is a nice peice of work. What Scott was asking is about double shearing the top of the shock, to keep the bolt from shearing off. Why is it that the front lower shock mount isn't double sheared for the same reason?