Harney's diatribe - rocker geometry to install & beyond

flatfour64 · Post by **flatfour64** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:58 pm

Lookin great so far. But I'm thinkin a tire upgrade will be in order eh?

I agree about getting the rings seated soon. You can't seat them without load on the motor. If all the ridges wear off the cylinder walls before putting the motor under load, then the rigs will never fully seal. I broke my motor in on a dyno with max load and high rpm cycles right after the cam break-in period. It worked great and have had good results in early leak-down checks.

So once again, drop that motor in and stand on it!!! Enjoy the fruits of your labor!

mharney · Post by **mharney** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 7:32 am

Yeah, I know.. I can't wait to do just that, but I've taken my time with everything else, I am going to be sure everything is peachy.

I got it stabbed last night - it glided right in like it was meant to be there. Imagine that.

Some notes:

Fitting the FRONT (front is front) firewall tin on with this DTM is NO trivial matter. There is a lot of trimming that must be done to the tin to get it to fit with the profile. I ended up losing about 10% of the tin to the nibblers. The fit is not perfect, but it's better than not having one at all. I think Jake should come up with a fiberglass piece that fits the DTM. As it is now there are some air leaks that will exist, but not too bad. That side is not the side I would be as worried about anyway. The tin had to be put on so that the mounting ears that would attach to the cylinder tin are below the tin, instead of above it, which will require some sort of spacers and bolts to get it to cinch without stressing the fiberglass. Not ideal.

The exhaust fits awesome under the apron, and not too close either. I just wish it had better clamp setups for the slip joints. The ones that are made on it kinda suck. They're not strong enough to really cinch the pipes down so they don't leak. I'll probably end up having to use some U bolts. The only thing is that the right side requires trimming some of the rubber engine seal away so it does not melt onto the pipe.

Not sure how the rear tin situation is going to work out at this point. If it's anything like the front, I will spend two hours fitting that.

I'm really hoping it's not too wide for the carbs to clear the sides. If it is I will have to surface grind the intakes where they mate to the heads at a slight angle so they tip in a little.

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 7:45 am

mharney wrote:--------------
I'm really hoping it's not too wide for the carbs to clear the sides.
If it is I will have to surface grind the intakes where they mate to
the heads at a slight angle so they tip in a little.

WHAT? And screw up your float settings by putting the carbs at an angle?!

You might want to rethink that...........

Don

mharney · Post by **mharney** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 7:49 am

It's that or a big ass hammer for the side walls, and I choose the former. It won't take much if any, and if I have to I'd adjust the floats. We're talking a degree or two maybe, and if I do that, the level will be basically the same, and the head of fuel above the orifi (made that one up, I think) will be very close to the same.

With luck I won't have to do it. You'll know soon, and so will I.

mharney · Post by **mharney** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:16 am

Fits with about 3/8" to spare on each side. My engine is about 1/2" wider than normal so I was fearin'.

EASY RIDER · Post by **EASY RIDER** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:45 am

Have fun with the rear tin. I sent you a e-mail with a picture of how much I cut mine to get it to fit. I hope it helps.

Bert

mharney · Post by **mharney** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:51 am

Bert, did you put on the front tin?

EASY RIDER · Post by **EASY RIDER** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:15 am

Yeah, If you make a new hotmail address or give me another email I will send you the pic of the rear. I can always go and take a few pix of the tin installed if you like. I used trim lok on the edges of the tin to keep the air spaces closed and to keep the fiberglass from getting destroyed.

Bert

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:52 am

I have always used the Stock tins with the Type I DTM and atleast in my car and when doing so the only issues that I have had was the trimming of the rear stock tins for the oil cooler duct outlet.

I have some patterns for a new rear tin at the waterjet now. If I could beg mharney to send me a template of what he made so I can put it in autocad I could offer that as well.

Some cars are harder to fit the front tin to simply because they may have had repairs made to the rear of them and even the trans mounts can slightly move the engine in the engine bay. Because of this I will always make the outside of the tins too large so theycan be cut to fit the car without gaps.

mahrney, did you try stock tin first??

mharney · Post by **mharney** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 10:59 am

Jake, my front tin is no example. It's completely bastardized and fits poorly, but it's better than nothing.

Stock tin for what? I used OEM (front is front) for the front and have not gotten to the rear tin (rear of the car). Still putting all the toys in the engine bay. I'm not sure I have a good rear tin to use (gonna get one of those cheap Bugpack or other aftermarket tins with no heater hose holes in it and start hacking. My experience with those is that they don't even fit the stock stuff well at all, much less this. I am sure I can come up with a better cutout for the rear, since it is more important than the front to me. I'll make the profile in cardboard, then draw it on the tin, and cut it out that way and see what I get. Bulletins as the occur.

Bugzlife · Post by **Bugzlife** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:01 pm

mharney wrote:It's that or a big ass hammer for the side walls, and I choose the former. It won't take much if any, and if I have to I'd adjust the floats. We're talking a degree or two maybe, and if I do that, the level will be basically the same, and the head of fuel above the orifi (made that one up, I think) will be very close to the same.

With luck I won't have to do it. You'll know soon, and so will I.

CB performance offers Spacer saver maifolds and link bar, Narrower , 180" the carbs and puts the adjustment screws on the inside (easier to reach) but, I know you won't be using that since you'd have to match port the manifolds.

Steve Arndt · Post by **Steve Arndt** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:05 pm

What rod length are you running? My engine (similar to yours) is far narrower than stock with the huge flycut for 13:1.

mharney · Post by **mharney** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 3:09 pm

It's IN!

And it is just plain SCARY, even out of tune. O M G.. it was worth it. More as things develop. I'm done for the day. I have to calm down and go get my daughter.

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 3:14 pm

WHOO HOO!

Go find a dyno and pay whatever it costs for the services... I consistently get atleast 10-15% more power just from a few tweeks..

EASY RIDER · Post by **EASY RIDER** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 3:23 pm

That is GREAT!

Now was that not easy? A few week, a couple of complications and one or two hard decisions and it's done.

Happy trails.

Bert