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Leatherneck wrote: ↑Wed Aug 19, 2020 2:55 pm She’s got some nice lungs on her Chuck.

Well David, as I stated before... I am a breast man

chuckput wrote: ↑Wed Aug 19, 2020 10:33 pm

Leatherneck wrote: ↑Wed Aug 19, 2020 2:55 pm She’s got some nice lungs on her Chuck.

Well David, as I stated before... I am a breast man

. Funny guy! How is everything going on it, any upgrades planned?

. Funny guy! How is everything going on it, any upgrades planned?
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Now that I have retired and the weather is starting to cooperate, I do have a few things to work on. First, I need to dial in a little more preload on my rear torsion bar. I also have all the parts to upgrade to power steering (Charlyn), including a new SACO 1.5 to 1 rack and pinion. The other project I have in the wings is to add " real" emergency brakes. I have manual Wildwood calipers and a universal e-brake handle with cables. The issue I am having is where to mount the brake handle. With two suspension seats there is no room on the tunnel. I read where someone had mounted there's on the floor between the driver's legs. ?? I will have to do some thinkin' and figurin' on that for sure.
Other than that all is well. Just trying to keep my wife's sanity in check for this her final year. I am sure glad I was able to retire in June because this distance learning is for the birds. I just know that God is good and all things will work out for good.

I can think of some very rude jokes on the e-brake or turning brakes in the front seat area for that matter. (they don't have an emoji for what I was thinking )

I have heard that the pan floor mount between the legs can cause problems such as they/it getting in the way of access. Turning brakes to the left where you get in I have seen and maybe the e-brakes could be installed down low for access, assuming the amount of adjustment is there

Are you going with electric power steering? From what I am hearing now is that people turn it off when on the road as it becomes too fast/twitchy hence turn it on only when off-roading but not at too great of speeds either.

Lee

Chuck it’s late and will talk more on it later but have you thought of the electrical power steering?

Leatherneck wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 12:43 am Chuck it’s late and will talk more on it later but have you thought of the electrical power steering?

I have thought about electric power steering, but I came across a complete used Charlyn system for a good price (maybe they were changing to a electric system). My engine came with a double crankshaft pulley and a pump mount. I have electric power steering on my new Subaru and it works well - good feedback, so I know it is a good system.

Lee, I have seen electric power steering systems that utilize a rheostat to adjust that sensitivity out on the fly.

chuckput wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 8:25 am

Leatherneck wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 12:43 am Chuck it’s late and will talk more on it later but have you thought of the electrical power steering?

I have thought about electric power steering, but I came across a complete used Charlyn system for a good price (maybe they were changing to a electric system). My engine came with a double crankshaft pulley and a pump mount. I have electric power steering on my new Subaru and it works well - good feedback, so I know it is a good system.

Lee, I have seen electric power steering systems that utilize a rheostat to adjust that sensitivity out on the fly.

Thanks Chuck. I see the electric units at a friend's house but never got interested in them due to the type of driving on the dunes like I do compared to what they do (way more aggressive) so other than just curiosity I haven't gotten too interested in making a change.

Lee

Can someone tell me what the torque specs are on these two sets of suspension bolts?

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-info ... orque.aspx

This should help some but (not meant to be a lecture)... there are other things that can affect bolt, nut and washer limits/usages such as an occasional over torqueing (remember when torqueing the bolt in place you are stretching the bolt's shank and/or threads) or having been under torqued for a while and odd loads done during that time.

Some bolt and especially some styles of nuts have design limits to their use also. The nylon style of locking nuts (for example) have a cycle use limitation of anywhere from 9 to the mid-fifteens cycles. I have been told that the color of the nylon can also tell you where the nut came from but I can't say that for certain. On one of the early uses of them I did I found out, in a much later discussion on something else that affected what we were using them for, I found out that the spec for them had been changed, in the fed spec's down to 9 cycles. Just before of the delivery of the airplane the nuts had been replaced again so the airplane started out with a fresh set of nuts (pun not intended ).

Fully threaded bolts should not be used in shear loading situations. The shank (the unthreaded portion of the bolt) is designed for this kind of loading while the thread aren't. Then you throw in the two different styles of making threads which muck up things even more. This is over-kill on this but you might find the info interesting: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=vi ... &FORM=VIRE

Three washers max before you go to a spacer, this is due to the potential of the washers not stacking up correctly (the washer hole might be too large for the bolt allowing them to shift some hence the load contact part of the bolt head's can be lost (common with box store buys so I usually check the fit of the next size smaller hole by slipping it on then sliding it around on the underside of the bolt head to see if the hole rides the radius between the bolt head and the shank or threads).

Sorry about the over discussion but most people don't know just how many fastener designs that are out there and for what specific use they may be designed for.

Lee

Looks like you need bigger flat washers, grade8.
Those need to be very tight... probably 80% max tq for size and grade of the bolt.
From the factory they were grade 12.9/grade 8 sae equivalent.

Most folks hit them with an impact until it stops moving.
(I don't recommend that)

Chuck I am sorry. I don’t know the torque specs, I just tightened the crap out of them.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-info ... orque.aspx

With Lee's help, I found this chart for torque values for metric bolts. Please note that these specs are in Newtons (Nm).

Piledriver, you stated that metric 12.9 bolts are grade 8 equivalent. It is my understanding that 10.9 is equivalent to grade 8 and 12.9 exceeds grade 8 standards. I may be wrong.

The washers that I am using are the stock thick flat washers.

Chuck, you are correct. At the time I retired (20 years ago on Nov 1 2000) the American Aircraft company I was working for was only getting into metrics after the foreign airlines requested it. Their first ask was suddenly pulled after they figured out just how much it would cost them for back up parts and the moving of them around to the different locations as their metric and non-metric fleet would need metric based back up parts (airplanes are moved to different runs on a regular bases as their life is determined by cycles so: short runs have more cycles than on runs [a cycle would be a take off then landing which is the pressurizing then de-pressurizing of the plane] than the longer distance runs). I was in the middle of learning metrics when the change was made so it was back to work in SAE standards. Some parts, including certain fasteners as I remember, are scheduled to be replaced on the same "cycle standard" too. Trivia but it does explain some things.

Leather, you might be surprised on the torque specs as some of them are leverage based (high torque) and some are not. I am sure you have had times when even lightly tightening the bolt would have their heads pop off. Age w/o being touched and over torqueing. both can cause this.

Lee

Got all my torque values figured out and re-indexed my rear suspension by one notch on the inner spline. It sits a little higher in the rear which is agreeable to me. I have not been able to test the suspension since finishing the work because my bug is too tall to get it out of the garage. The garage I keep my bug in was created from an old carport by the previous home owner. It has always been a tight fit. When I was riding a motorcycle it was perfect since the garage is too short to park a normal car in. We built a full-sized two-car garage for our cars. The garage door opening is non-standard (too low). Truth be told, I can get the bug out of the garage, but I need to remove the spare tire. Not wanting to do that every time I decided to come up with a easier work around. I decided with some ratchet straps I can cinch down the suspension enough to get it out the door. So I've welded a tab on the rear trailing arms and put an eye bolt in the inner fender.

If this is it I can see why the problem with the spare tire.

A clamp strap might work but letting some of the air out of the tires might work also.

Lee