An engine run cart build

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I just got a shock; the fuel tank I ordered at a local cost, which by the time you added shipping it wasn't worth the difference (I don't feel comfortable ordering on line) just came up on Amazon for a quarter if what I paid for it. They had 6 at the ridiculously low price and I am not sure I can stop the other order but just-in-case I don't want to have two of them either.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Well, well, well, I got a call yesterday from my local Honda dealer, at closing time, informing me that the tank I ordered was in. They said 5 to 7 days and it was 5 working days. The guy came out with a nice sized Christmas box (something that can be used for putting no box Christmas presents in) that wasn’t damage at all.

The tank was wrapped thrice in foam and bubble wrap to protect it.



This is how the bottom looked as I open the last layer of the tank condom. The first thing I noticed was metal tape covering the outlet hole; this drew my attention away from the second feature that was important, a threaded hole in the side of the mounting surface.



These are the other two mounting studs… at an angle. There is going to be some plain and fancy hammer work in the big city soon folks.



This is the threaded outlet hole. Some of the pictures I have seen showed the tank with a spud mounted but this way, assuming I can get what I want, I can extend things out and put a shut off/drain valve on it.



Again, the tank fuel opening was closed with metal tape. The fuel cap is sold separately.





The completed tank; now I have to figure out how and where to mount it. I want to mount it high enough for gravity feed in case the stock fuel pump should fail; one of the reasons so many sand rails mount the tank high in the car.

Since I/we (my buggy and the two rails in our group) still run w/o injection I try not to use an electric pump. I was going to put a second line in but since I don’t think I will ever need it but I am going to allow for a Tee to be added… just-in-case.

I did hold the tank up to the stand with the throttle handle in place to see what and where I can mount it. If I mount to either side of the throttle and up a bit the throttle is still usable and the tank looks like it can be move forward to located somewhere between the bell housing and the tower of the stand.

I would like the control panel to be to the left of the throttle which makes it on the starter side of the bell housing and where most of the high draw (starter)/input (generator/alternator) electronics will be.

The fuel usually comes in on the other side anyway so that is good. I don’t like mounting a fuel tank over the solenoid/starter anyway as on bad days sparkly things can happen there.

Remember, things can change when I actually get in there and sparks fly.

Lee

[Steve Arndt]

Lee, I have a Honda pressure washer with that exact tank on it.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

They use it and a size larger tank on a lot different of things I found out when researching tanks out. I think it is going to be a good choice for what I am building.

I hope you are happy with yours 'cause it would be a bummer if it wasn't what I think it is. It is funny though, unless you have problems with something you go along fat, dumb, and happy until it goes wrong then the fun begins.

Lee

[fusername]

I have yet to stumble across one, but a shut off that can be panel mounted would be nice. My fuel tank has a threaded shutoff on the bottom of it, and due to lack of regular use, it is VERY hard to turn on and off. if it was just flopping in the middle of length of hose I could see the hose getting damaged over time. this is of course based on the assumption you will have a permanent on/off switch.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I think your idea is along the lines of what I have in mind. I think the valve is going to be close to the tank but just how close will have to be figured your. there are some available that have a remote handle to them, something like this (it doesn't show the remote handle but the place for it is there: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=rem ... dIndex=350 or http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=rem ... dIndex=362. this one is interesting: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=rem ... dIndex=466

There are also electrically operated valves too, this is a 12v valve: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=12V ... tedIndex=0

More valves to look at: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=12V ... orm=IQFRDR

Lee

[bugman742002]

or something like this. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... ing=search

[Ol'fogasaurus]

An interesting thought... thank you. Read what it had to say about it several times; I am not sure I need this as I am only using one tank unless it would work for either fuel feed or to drain the tank. I need to look into it more such as if the power is off what happens.

Lee

[bugman742002]

Ok it's basically a solenoid that pulls from one port when the power is off then the other when the power is on. So you can plug one side off and pull fuel from the other

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Ok it's basically a solenoid that pulls from one port when the power is off then the other when the power is on. So you can plug one side off and pull fuel from the other

After reading the description several times after, I had initially replied, I got that out of it; I was confusing it with something else. I need to be able to shut the fuel off after a run and drain the tank or just to shut the fuel off after an aborted run incase the engine would sit for a while.

I really need to look into it more to see if I wanted to go in that direction.

Lee

[bugman742002]

Oh ok was trying to read what you were saying while my 5 yearold so was trying to get my attention.

[bugman742002]

You could use it to do both of those things.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Like I said, I have to look into it further. Thanks for input and good luck keeping up with and out thinking a 5 year old.

Lee

[bugman742002]

No problem. I'm just keeping you thinking. And I need all the luck I can get with him.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

bugman742002 When you posted the switch you got me thinking back about 50 years.



You can't see it well here but on multiple carb setups we used to use a single line tee'd for a line to each carb or a fuel distribution block with ports for the number of carbs you were running. I'm beginning to think a distribution block might be a good direction to look into. I also got thinking that I have an extra brass rear brake line Tee that might work as a fuel block to the engine and to a drain shut-off valve. I would have a shut off between the tank and the Tee then a secondary shut off for a drain line so I don't have to worry about it dripping from capping it off. More complicated than I wanted but less electronics I have to deal with also.

Still playing with options.

Lee