ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

Keeping an eye on oil pressure might be a better plan, assuming you are running a suitable oil.

Were the flakes/color magnetic or non magnetic?
Cams/lifters do break in... they also commonly fail, esp with the vast majority of the oils out there.

Having said that, a bit of color (even some flaking) is normal on low mileage engine...
Esp one without a filter.

If you do have a full flow filter, cutting it for inspection may be enlightening.

They make cutters just for cutting open oil filters for inspection...
The ones I have used work sort of like a cross of a tubing cutter and can opener, grabbed the can edge, sliced the side.

You can open one with a pocket knife and patience... prepare for a mess doing it like that.

This engine was not new... The last time I was into it was back in December 02. Granted, it was in storage a lot of time between then and now, but its not a new break-in by a long shot.

The flakes were silver and non-metalic. I have a hunch that its part of the lead overlay on one of the bearings. An ICP on the oil would tell me for sure what its in it.

It has always had a filter on it. I figured I would probably cut the filter open and see whats in it.

Well that is crappy, are you going to send out the oil first before you pull it to tear it down or is this the reason you needed to change out the bottom end?

MarioVelotta wrote:Well that is crappy, are you going to send out the oil first before you pull it to tear it down or is this the reason you needed to change out the bottom end?

No I'm not going to send out the oil, don't think there is much point... I do fuels and lubricants research for the military as my day job, so I am VERY familiar with used oil analysis. Regardless, there are large flakes coming out of the engine consistently, so something is letting go. Figured I would catch it now before it messes other stuff up along with it.

So yea, still a bummer, but like you said I'm looking at the bright side by viewing this as an opportunity to change the bottom end

Started a new build up thread for the updated longblock over in the forced induction forum. See here for updates:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 3&t=131171

Redline Weber wrote:T :

1.The BARO correction with the fuel regulator "ported" to open air pressure will need an INCREASE (add fuel) in fuel correction when the engine is "throttled" to maintain constant AFR.
2.The BARO correction with the fuel regulator "ported" to manifold will need a DECREASE (remove fuel) in the fuel correction when the engine is "throttled" to maintain constant AFR.

Lance

Actually, you are incorrect. The computer needs to know barometric pressure to know how much air is available. Most of us don't have significant changes in barometric pressure during their daily cruise.

The computer also needs to figure out how much air is going down the engine. One way to figure this out is with a MAF. Another way is with a MAP sensor. MAP, in case you didn't know, is Manifold Absolute Pressure, not Baro. BARO must be a proprietary thing for you?

As you open the throttle, the absolute pressure changes inside the Manifold (MAP). If you combine the TPS reading with the MAP combined with RPM, the computer can figure out how much fuel to give the engine.

Your system works the exact same way.

Bump

This is one hell of an awesome build, lots of attention to detail and a really clean install. I like it a lot.

I have been quitely following this build, as you have gone the same route I plan to on my Ghia.

Did you ever get any dyno data or real experiemce from driving it with and without the turbo? It would be interesting to see whan sort of power gain you saw.

Otherwise, it is an awesome build, and really good attention to detail, makes me want to start all over again

Roy

Thanks guys.. no I never ran it NA, but I'm sure the turbo helps

This set-up is off to a new home. I couldn't be more happy with the results of the project. The car runs fantastic and I'm sure the new owner will enjoy the set-up.

I'd highly recommend this type of set-up to anyone interested in a turbo street VW. It was fun, but I'm looking something that a little more sedate and family friendly these days

ah....must be reinstalling the old 1500

Exactly why we are taking every effort with my new engine build to design it with smooth street driving in any weather. Doing this is not easy. Even the cold start up routine alone takes some engineering to get it close to a stock carbed engine in drivability. I'm hoping mine will turn out to drive like a stocker and open up when needed.

mschilling wrote:Exactly why we are taking every effort with my new engine build to design it with smooth street driving in any weather. Doing this is not easy. Even the cold start up routine alone takes some engineering to get it close to a stock carbed engine in drivability. I'm hoping mine will turn out to drive like a stocker and open up when needed.

Exactly... This system does this very well, not sure if your implying otherwise or not? It drives just like a stocker (even better really) unless you tell it otherwise. I couldn't have been happier with the results. I just know how I am and I couldn't keep my foot out of it Time for me to slow down and enjoy the ride.

I just know how I am and I couldn't keep my foot out of it Time for me to slow down and enjoy the ride.

Heck, my daughter is grown and out of the house, getting married in another week...I might be old, but it's time to step it up another notch