Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
Which gaskets are you using? and is the flange on the header pipe the thick one or the thin one. it may be warped and just not sealing right. Also, you probably want to get the small head nuts. they tighten easier. Oh ya, i'm with David, sounds like exhaust leak to me.
Thick flange. Shay (bisquick) said he never had the problem I'm having. I'm already using the double-nut method.
Run some automatic tranny fluid thru the top of the carb, enough to make it smoke and you will see the leaks. Go slow adding the tranny fluid if it is a 4 in 1 you can put some rags in the tail pipe and really see the leaks.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
That doesn't sound like a rod or a piston since it isn't consistent. Could be a rocker or a compression leak. A compression leak will show up by doing a compression check, and a rocker can usually be spotted by removing the valve cover and inspecting the assembly. It does, however, sound like an exhaust leak to me. Have you checked to see how flat the flanges on the exhaust are? Exhaust gaskets can only take up so much space. Try bolting up the exhaust without a gasket in it and check for gaps with a feeler gauge set. Don't start the engine or anything, just inspect the exhaust. If you're over .05 then you will likely have exhaust gasket problems until you fix it. You might just have to tweak the flanges back into a reasonable flatness condition and not replace the entire exhaust. I used a hammer and a steel plate to flatten mine back out, and they never leaked again.
I used to find the only way I could prevent exhaust leaks was to ensure the flanges were flat, install the exhaust and tighen the nuts. Then drive it for about 5 minutes, then retorque the nuts while it was still hot. Once I did that, I stopped having problems
I don't always show my signature. But when I do, it's in this area.
Copper, I didn't realize it was a video either but I did chuckle for quite a while on Lorats' post. Sorry, it just tickled my fancy and it needs tickling once in a while.
I did watch the video and if you are talking about the snapping sound, it sure sounds to me like a leaky spark plug wire or plug boot leaking (is the wire truly on the plug itself and not being held on by the boot?). They will do the hit and miss thing like that.
Ol'fogasaurus wrote:Copper, I didn't realize it was a video either but I did chuckle for quite a while on Lorats' post. Sorry, it just tickled my fancy and it needs tickling once in a while.
I did watch the video and if you are talking about the snapping sound, it sure sounds to me like a leaky spark plug wire or plug boot leaking (is the wire truly on the plug itself and not being held on by the boot?). They will do the hit and miss thing like that.
Lee
I don't know why it doesn't have the border... *shrug*
I checked the boots....even adjusted the valves to cross that off the list. All 4 to .006
I'll try to replace the gasket tomorrow morning. If I put a paper one along with the metal one, I wonder if that will cure the issue. I plan on turning down the exhaust too...probably a project for a later date.
I need to hit up Fibertech anyway. I have 4 coilovers and do not own a spanner wrench....I need to remedy that problem.
Not to belabor the subject, the spark plug wires look like they are sitting in the manifolds, check the underside of them. The sound is just like the sound you would get if you pulled the wire off the plug and arc'd the wire to ground (when checking to see if you have a dead cylinder or checking the quality of the spark [color]), assuming the snapping/popping sound is what you are talking about. That the sound goes away (sounds like it anyway, no pun intended) when you revved the engine up also could be in the stray high voltage spark discussion.