TMM 2332 FI Turbo Engine build thread

[richie morena]

On the subject of flaps in the type 1 fan shroud , i found only a very small increase of head temp when not using the flaps, i agree they do help to send the air in the right direction over the heads but belive the main reason for them is to help the engine to warm up quicker in cold climates.

[turbobaja]

On the subject of flaps in the type 1 fan shroud , i found only a very small increase of head temp when not using the flaps, i agree they do help to send the air in the right direction over the heads but belive the main reason for them is to help the engine to warm up quicker in cold climates.

That's pretty much what I came up with too. Helps bring the cylinders up to temp quicker and I would imagine they help keep them at a higher temp as well. Cold starts with lots of cold air overcooling the cylinders extends the warm-up cycle and increases piston/cylinder wear. Probably much less important in warm or HOT climates.

I'm in the process of locating a set of factory doghouse t-stat and flaps to "install" in my Scat shroud already .


Didn't mean to hi-jack ya TMM. I'll step aside now and let the horsepower making continue

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

On the subject of flaps in the type 1 fan shroud , i found only a very small increase of head temp when not using the flaps, i agree they do help to send the air in the right direction over the heads but belive the main reason for them is to help the engine to warm up quicker in cold climates.

That's pretty much what I came up with too. Helps bring the cylinders up to temp quicker and I would imagine they help keep them at a higher temp as well. Cold starts with lots of cold air overcooling the cylinders extends the warm-up cycle and increases piston/cylinder wear. Probably much less important in warm or HOT climates.

I'm in the process of locating a set of factory doghouse t-stat and flaps to "install" in my Scat shroud already .


Didn't mean to hi-jack ya TMM. I'll step aside now and let the horsepower making continue

Let us know how your flap rejuvination surgey goes....

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

Would you mind taking a pic of your oil temp sender in the filter and posting it? I think more people should do it that way. Patiently waiting for the header build also

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

You might be wondering why I bothered to use my old cylinder tin and shroud over new SCAT tin.

I made a bracket to hold the intake piping that references the holes where the fan bolts years ago.




From what I hear the SCAT tin has the fan bolt holes rotated slightly from the stock VW tin which would force me to make new brackets.

Also I have big washers welded on the shroud to hold the coil in place. The washer has a nut welded in back to accept a good sized bolt. I don't want to have a breakdown due to a coil falling off. My riding group prides themselves on very few breakdowns.

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

Time to make a header.

First a few facts:
1) This is my third header. Ever.
2) I won't be stealing any of Shag or Marty's header business.
3) Yes I know a bender should be used to form the bends, but I don't have one.
4) My welding is not that great, therefore I'm just tacking things and will give it to my friend who does aerospace welding for a living.


OK, enough of that, let's build a header.

Here's Header #2 from the old motor. It's been cut and rewelded 3 times due to turbo changes over the years. The new one will be similar. I'm using 16ga mild steel, 1 5/8".


I started first with working on the collector.

Here are the raw parts. The goal is to reform the collector so it fits within the header flange. It's important to get the pipe to fit inside the flange so there is not a lip to create turbulance in the exhaust flow.



I used a combination of a hammer, propane torch to heat the metal and a vice to start squaring off the top of the collector. Here it is in progress.



Go slow and make small changes until it fits. Here's what it ended up looking like.



It will be welded up inside and out and ground smooth.

Next I needed to get the turbo in position to start fabing the exhaust pipes. I rotated the center of the turbo to align the oil return and then clamped the compressor outlet to the intake track. Next I used some washers and junk to prop the motor level on the bench. I used the 2 lower studs and a 4' level.

Once the motor was level I cut a pipe to hold the collector in position so I could work on the exhaust pipes.


Now it's hard to explain how I figure out how the pipes go, but I start with the shortest pipe first as it's the easiest and will help hold things more solid when you do the other pipes. Also the first pipe is always the hardest for me, lots of looking and measuring before you start cutting. Some use a coathanger to get a flow of what the pipe looks like. I use an angle finder to help me out.

For the first pipe, I ended up cutting a few 45's and came up with this.



Next was the pipe on the same side but up front.




It's super important to use thick flanges on a turbo header, the header get's alot hotter than on a NA engine and thin flanges will warp and leak resulting in performance loss. You want all the pressure and heat from the motor to get to the turbo to spool it fast. Make sure you grind all flanges perfectly flat, and then recheck them after you've welded on them as they will most likely warp a bit from the welding heat.I'm going to use CB's copper gaskets on the 2 bolt flanges to help seal things up.

I was able to get to three of the pipes and ran out of material. It'll be next weekend when I get to finish this up.

Here's what it looks like right now.


I'll be lighting this baby off next weekend.

[Hotrodvw]

I think your #3 cyl tube should be going to the right side where your #1 or #2 is and vise versa.......cross firing at the collector.

[Hotrodvw]

Would you mind taking a pic of your oil temp sender in the filter and posting it? I think more people should do it that way. Patiently waiting for the header build also

Here's my solution:

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

I think your #3 cyl tube should be going to the right side where your #1 or #2 is and vise versa.......cross firing at the collector.

That would make the header very difficult to make, and due to the unequal lengths of the pipes aren't the exhaust pulses all out of sequence anyway? My theory was to make the pipes as short as possible to keep the heat and exhaust speed up.

[Hotrodvw]

I hear ya, just mentioning it since that's usually how they're made. It really does look good though!

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

I hear ya, just mentioning it since that's usually how they're made. It really does look good though!

Thanks!

On your oil temp sensor, what brand is that? I ended up with my setup as i wanted to use GM sensors for Megasquirt. I like that fitting you have, where did you get it? Earls, Russel....?

[Hotrodvw]

It's a modified run tee. I sell them at work. It had a #8 male in the middle. I cut it off, and drilled and tapped it for my sender. This one happens to be a 14mmx1.5 port.

[ToRy 70]

looks AWESOME. most fabricators don't bend up headers out of one piece of tube, they do it just like that... cut and paste as needed.

i really like that little collector cone, wish i had one when I made mine. are you gonna run a muffler?

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

looks AWESOME. most fabricators don't bend up headers out of one piece of tube, they do it just like that... cut and paste as needed.

i really like that little collector cone, wish i had one when I made mine. are you gonna run a muffler?

Thanks, no muffler for now unless it's deadly loud. I was checking out Flowmaster, they have a real small muffler with a 3" in and out, if I need a muffler I may try that one. Think it's the outlaw line.

Those little collector cones are less than $5, with the alignment tool.

[miniman82]

I have a single chamber Flowmaster on my 1915, I think it was less noise without it.