turbo oiling

Sidewalk · Post by **Sidewalk** » Fri Nov 16, 2001 12:50 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Matt Keene:
Mocal then suggested running a red Holley fuel pump, as they run this pump as a transmission cooling pump. I was extremely sceptical, but tried one out and it is still working to this day. I know it's not designed to pump hot oil - but it works. That's all I gotta say 'bout that (Forrest Gump)... matt<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

How long has it been working? Do you have hour or miles?

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'59 Bug-A few tricks here and there.
Stella

Matt Keene · Post by **Matt Keene** » Sun Nov 18, 2001 2:35 pm

Probably about 1000 miles so far. I have done 2 hour journeys non stop - no probs. Can't believe it myself. I have raced it too.

69bug · Post by **69bug** » Mon Nov 19, 2001 10:04 pm

MR. MIKE SHELDON...CAN U PLEASE EXPLAIN IN GREAT DETAIL HOW TO HOOK UP THE OI LINES TO A TURBO...I HAVE A GARRET TURBO THAT I PICKED UP AT A SWAP FO 8 BUCKS(I'M GOING TO REBUILD IT)..OR DO U KNOW A WEBSITE THAT SHOWS IT...THANK U VERY MUCH

69bug · Post by **69bug** » Tue Nov 20, 2001 11:56 pm

THE PICTURE I POSTED ISN'T MINE...IT'S A.J. SIMS(LOWBUGGET.COM)...I PUT THE WRONG ONE IN

THIS IS THE ONE I WANTED TO SHOW U GUYS

Muffler Mike · Post by **Muffler Mike** » Wed Nov 21, 2001 6:48 am

Hheehe the money I spent on my oil line cost me 3-4 times as much as you paid for your turbo.
There are two ways you can get an oil supply. The easiest way would be to add a tee fitting in between the oil pressure sender and the case. The other option that I did was pull the plug above the sender and tap it with ¼? npt. (pipe thread) This establishes the oil supply. Now all you have to do is worry about plumbing.
I stopped by Earls Performance Products and picked up my fittings to get my job done. I ended up using a ?3 braided line, basically what you might use for brake line, (teflon-SS braided) and got all necessary fittings to make this happen from case to turbo. The braided line was a cut and build to length at home. So it was not built to length at the store.
If you do it this way, make up a little drawing of what you have. And take it down to your local speed shop that might sell fittings and hose and they should be able to set you up.
Or better yet, Buzz up to VW Paradise in San Marcos and show them what you have. They will set you up, or at least tell you where to go.
Although not able to do it this in the next day or two, but maybe I can take a close up picture of my set up with the hose and fittings used.

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Muffler Mike
www.MufflerMike.com

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Wed Nov 21, 2001 2:27 pm

Here are some pics of mine.
One is of the turbo oil inlet that is on top of the center section of the turbo. Another is where I tapped into the main oil galley to get pressurized oil to the turbo. The last one is a rear view so you can see the turbo feed and drain. The drain line must exit the bottom of the turbo. I use -4 for the oil feed line and -8 for the drain line.
www.staggsracing.com

[This message has been edited by Marty (edited 11-22-2001).]

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Wed Nov 21, 2001 2:30 pm

Heres a side view with the exhaust pipe removed so you can see the relationship between the oil feed and drain. No matter where you mount the turbo or how your configuration is, the oiling of the turbo will be the same. It must recieve good high-pressure oil at all times and must have a free-flowing drain back to the case.
www.staggsracing.com

[This message has been edited by Marty (edited 11-22-2001).]

Bus Boy · Post by **Bus Boy** » Wed Nov 21, 2001 7:01 pm

Would it be feasible to run a completely seperate oil system for the turbo complete with pump,filter,cooler and sump you could then run the best oil for your turbo and the best oil for your engine.

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Wed Nov 21, 2001 7:07 pm

I dont know why you would want to go through all that trouble. Keep It Simple S!&%^%&*.

Sidewalk · Post by **Sidewalk** » Wed Nov 21, 2001 8:03 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Bus Boy:
Would it be feasible to run a completely seperate oil system for the turbo complete with pump,filter,cooler and sump you could then run the best oil for your turbo and the best oil for your engine.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It can be done. I believe some cars came factory that way.

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'59 Bug-A few tricks here and there.
Stella

Bus Boy · Post by **Bus Boy** » Thu Nov 22, 2001 1:51 am

Is it worth the effort,will it help the turbo/engine run cooler,are there any other benefits

Sidewalk · Post by **Sidewalk** » Thu Nov 22, 2001 10:44 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Bus Boy:
Is it worth the effort,will it help the turbo/engine run cooler,are there any other benefits<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
No, it is not worth the effort.

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'59 Bug-A few tricks here and there.
Stella

69bug · Post by **69bug** » Thu Nov 22, 2001 2:58 pm

MR. MUFFLER MIKE SHELDON...WHERE DOES THE RETURN LINE GO TO. AND DOESN'T THAT TAKE AWAY THE (PRECIOUS)OIL PRESSURE TO THE REST OF THE ENGINE?U KNOW..THE PRESSURE ESCAPES TO THE TURBO?

DO U ALSO KNOW HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST TO REBUILD THE TURBO...ESTIMATION...ITS A GARRET...THATS ALL ABOUT I KNOW ABOUT IT

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Thu Nov 22, 2001 8:17 pm

I have not seen Mike post in a few days (he must have a real life) so I will attempt to answer your questions. If you look at the holes in the bushings in the turbo that the oil must be forced through, you would see that it does not significantly affect the engines overall oil pressure. You might lose a pound or two when the motor is hot but that should not be an issue. If your going to run a turbo system, your oiling needs to be top notch anyways just as with any performance motor. Shoddy assembly with cheap parts will show the consequences in short order. I recommend a minimum of a 28mm pump (full flowed of course) and a doghouse or better cooler. Your bearing clearances need to be right also. The turbo just needs a clear drain to the case. With a full street motor, the block-off plate where the stock fuel pump went (you need and electric pump with a turbo motor) is a perfect spot. Drill and tap the top of the plate to 1/2" pipe and put a 3/4" barbed fitting in it. Another good place it the alternator stand itself. Drill and tap into the rear side of it the same and the fuel block-off. I do NOT recommend draining to the sump or valve cover. Both of these areas have a tendancy to cause the oil to back up the drain line. Some people do it but I race and run my motors very hard with no oiling issues.
I will post a pic of the turbo bearings if you all would like so you can see how they are oiled internally.
www.staggsracing.com

[This message has been edited by Marty (edited 11-22-2001).]

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Thu Nov 22, 2001 8:20 pm

Oh yeah,
My turbo guy gets about $300.00 to re-build a turbo. That includes the bearings, carbon seal, misc stuff and labor.
It aint cheap.