Body lifts
-
Leatherneck
- Moderator
- Posts: 17104
- Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 6:47 pm
-
Ordcorpdw
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:21 am
check www.chirco.com, I am sure they have the body lift and have a cool buildup of a baja under their project cars. I would like to see a photo of a body lift straight on looking at the front of the car. I am curious how much of the beam is visible. Never cared for the body lifts on trucks that showed the frame. Maybe a pre runner bumper could cover that up.[/url]
-
subybaja
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 3:56 pm
Funny, Fogasaurus, my thinking on the tinfoil lifts was just the opposite- that a baja body is heavy, and will eventually crush the lift (didn't Baja5 have this problem?), where glass is so light you might be OK.
I've built several for glass buggies out of .125 wall tubing, and I really liked them. Stoutest thing on the whole flimsy car, and a really great place to tie the cage in.
Just be careful doing the front.
I've built several for glass buggies out of .125 wall tubing, and I really liked them. Stoutest thing on the whole flimsy car, and a really great place to tie the cage in.
Just be careful doing the front.
-
Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17881
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
The"Tinfoil" lifts that I have seen have bolts in the bottom leg of the extrusion to the pan, and bolts in the upper leg of the extrusion to bolt to the body (in other words, not a bolt through). They also have tubular spacers for the additional body to chassis bolts that you needed to temporarly remove (and replace with longer ones... usually supplied) to get the body off (more applicable to Baja's). Weld the whole lift together, things are a little stronger that way, but I agree not that strong. Boxing might help. Someone posted pictures of what looked like a boxed kit. He did good work too.
By removing the body from the pan, you reduce a lot of the strength that was intended by the engineers with the direct body to pan connection. That spacer does not really bring that strength back. This is the second time I have had the body off the pan. the first time I did not look at things that well and didn't realize how flimsy the outer parimeter really was. My passenger side was drooping close to a half and inch when un-supported.
Before I started my lift, I spent a lot of time asking questions. I thought about locally fish plating (a doubler welded to the vertical part of the "C") and then locally boxing where the cage bolts went. It wasn't until I acturally saw one (the pun was intended in this case as I cut it up trying to get to some parts I wanted. The bottoms of side rails and rear cross pieces were rusted beyond use but so much that I couldn't see the mateial thickness.) and how thin the material it was made from. Then I understood.
I am sorry to say that building a lift is a lot of work. It has been fun though and I have learned a lot. Would I do it again... I have to. I have another buggy and this one will take more work. The one posted is just a learning piece.
By removing the body from the pan, you reduce a lot of the strength that was intended by the engineers with the direct body to pan connection. That spacer does not really bring that strength back. This is the second time I have had the body off the pan. the first time I did not look at things that well and didn't realize how flimsy the outer parimeter really was. My passenger side was drooping close to a half and inch when un-supported.
Before I started my lift, I spent a lot of time asking questions. I thought about locally fish plating (a doubler welded to the vertical part of the "C") and then locally boxing where the cage bolts went. It wasn't until I acturally saw one (the pun was intended in this case as I cut it up trying to get to some parts I wanted. The bottoms of side rails and rear cross pieces were rusted beyond use but so much that I couldn't see the mateial thickness.) and how thin the material it was made from. Then I understood.
I am sorry to say that building a lift is a lot of work. It has been fun though and I have learned a lot. Would I do it again... I have to. I have another buggy and this one will take more work. The one posted is just a learning piece.
Lee
My opinion is worth slightly less than what you paid for it.
My opinion is worth slightly less than what you paid for it.
-
Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17881
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
By-the-way, I spent well over a year asking questions on this and a lot of the input I got on this was from GDRBOret. He is a very good source for information. If I remember correctly, he mounted his cage using the half-lap method where mine is directly on top of the cage.
One day, I am going to get the photobucket thing doneso I can post directly. Lee.
One day, I am going to get the photobucket thing doneso I can post directly. Lee.
Lee
My opinion is worth slightly less than what you paid for it.
My opinion is worth slightly less than what you paid for it.
-
RyanB
- Posts: 1466
- Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 12:01 am
I've about convinced myself to build my own. I'm gonna go down and pickup some 1x3 square tubing, thickest wall they have this Saturday unless something sways my mind away from trying it. Been working everythign out in my head last night to do it.
Interesting Information there Ol'fog. I am with subybaja on this one though. I think the pan will be extremely strengthened by putting this tubing in, especially since I plan on welding it to the pan.
Interesting Information there Ol'fog. I am with subybaja on this one though. I think the pan will be extremely strengthened by putting this tubing in, especially since I plan on welding it to the pan.
-
Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17881
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm