Your tank was probably soldered with either plumber's or electrical solder which is either 60/40 or 63/37 Tin to Lead ratio respectively. This solder melts at about 361 degrees F which is less than most powder coating temperatures. Pure Lead has a melting point of about 620 degrees F. Lead body filler is mostly (or sometimes pure) Lead so it should stay solid up above 600 degrees F which is about 100 degrees F more than any powder coating process I am aware of. I agree that traditional Tin/Lead solder is not at all compatible with powdercoating.sideshow wrote: I'm not sure about that. I had one really old small engine gas tank (~16oz) coated and we didn't realize that the filler was soldered on. It came off in the oven.
I used electricial solder & a torch to replace the filler. Ugly but also bad-ass, it is used on my engine pre run stand.
powdercoating sheetmetal & body filler question
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Guest
Re: Fixing flaws under Powercoat
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Jonnie Fraz
I have used some of the special powdercoating body fillers, they work.
Ask your powdercoater, some will not work with fillers. That is there call, if they recomend the product then they will stand behind it, if not then it is on you if it fails. As for lead I powdercoated a race car chassis that had a lead filled ballest bar in it and it melted. I cannot attest to the alloy I acn only tell you it failed. You should not have a problem with the special filler.
Hope this helps
Ask your powdercoater, some will not work with fillers. That is there call, if they recomend the product then they will stand behind it, if not then it is on you if it fails. As for lead I powdercoated a race car chassis that had a lead filled ballest bar in it and it melted. I cannot attest to the alloy I acn only tell you it failed. You should not have a problem with the special filler.
Hope this helps