Beehive valve springs on a TI motor?

Do you like to go fast? Well get out of that stocker and build a hipo motor for your VW. Come here to talk with others who like to drive fast.
joel mohr
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Post by joel mohr »

As of right now, you need .100 longer valves to get to .550 lift. the LS1 spring is 1.290 O.D. and just a slight cut needs to be made to the spring seating area. Retainers are available in Ti or Chromoly, and the springs are 15.00 each. BYE-BYE K800s! if NASCAR doesn't need 'em why should we? lifting to .750 at 9,000 rpm! :D
MASSIVE TYPE IV
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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV »

Absolutely...

Crazy spring tension is the lazy mans way of building an engine!
joel mohr
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Post by joel mohr »

I just received word yeterday that a company IN the VW industry is going to put up the money to have the first batch of "bolt-in" beehives for type 1 heads produced. I can't tell you who, but the springs wil be WELL distributed!!!!
bugboy696
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Post by bugboy696 »

Awesome!!! I'll be one of there first costumers! Whomever it might be?...
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TKisner
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Post by TKisner »

Who is producing these springs? Any idea how much longer until they'll be ready and for how much $$?
joel mohr
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Post by joel mohr »

The first batch is in process...The prints were faxed to the winder and it should take about 6 weeks to process....we hope :D
fuguboy
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Post by fuguboy »

Any word on these killer bee springs yet? 8)
joel mohr
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Post by joel mohr »

They're supposedly in production......I'll keep you posted :D
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

What are the resting length and *typical* installed height of these springs?

I was interested in them when they came out, but only saw info for BBC applications, and the spring was too big (O.D.) for my Fiat project (twin cam engine, spring has to fit within the tappet cup). The 1.290" O.D. springs will fit, but I'd like to know if I have the height under my cam boxes to run them.
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Marc
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Post by Marc »

Couldn't you just shim the boxes up as far as needed? It's possible to get Gilmer belts in custom lengths if that made the timing belt too short. How about using non-adjustable cups like Alfas have and adjusting the valves with lashcaps under them? (P.I.T.A. but eliminates the cam tiddly-winking the stock shims and reduces valvetrain weight for higher-RPM.)
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

Marc wrote:Couldn't you just shim the boxes up as far as needed? It's possible to get Gilmer belts in custom lengths if that made the timing belt too short. How about using non-adjustable cups like Alfas have and adjusting the valves with lashcaps under them? (P.I.T.A. but eliminates the cam tiddly-winking the stock shims and reduces valvetrain weight for higher-RPM.)
Those are good suggestions, Marc, and some may be implemented. As far as shimming the cam box up, this would require a bit of machine work to make the shim in the correct shape; probably more $$$ in labor than anything. This is a last resort.

Already, stock length VW valve stems are too long for my application without going to cam box shims; too bad, because 42 x 37mm 8mm-stemmed VW valves would be a perfect and inexpensive replacement (stock on my 1608 is 41.5 x 36.5).

The valve shims on the Fiat tappet cups are not too bad. I took my 1756 up to 8000 a few times with stock springs (with performance cams...think E-110 lift and E-130 duration) without valve float. This 1608 will certainly be up in that range more often; but if the base circle diameter on the new cams are too small, I will run lash caps in order to reduce the overall shim thickness.

I doubt I will run into coil bind with the relativelt low lift I am running; I'm just worried about horrendous seat pressures because I'm already about .200" short of stock ACVW valve lengths.

[edit: I'm wrong...I'll hit coil bind at the installed height of my stock valves. Maybe I'll look into some ACVW-length valves and run the LS1 springs and shim the cam boxes (gonna be a bitch)...or wait for the Type-1 springs and see what their installed height is.]
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