
Beehive valve springs on a TI motor?
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- Posts: 298
- Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2003 7:58 am
As of right now, you need .100 longer valves to get to .550 lift. the LS1 spring is 1.290 O.D. and just a slight cut needs to be made to the spring seating area. Retainers are available in Ti or Chromoly, and the springs are 15.00 each. BYE-BYE K800s! if NASCAR doesn't need 'em why should we? lifting to .750 at 9,000 rpm! 

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- Stripped66
- Posts: 1904
- Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2001 12:01 am
What are the resting length and *typical* installed height of these springs?
I was interested in them when they came out, but only saw info for BBC applications, and the spring was too big (O.D.) for my Fiat project (twin cam engine, spring has to fit within the tappet cup). The 1.290" O.D. springs will fit, but I'd like to know if I have the height under my cam boxes to run them.
I was interested in them when they came out, but only saw info for BBC applications, and the spring was too big (O.D.) for my Fiat project (twin cam engine, spring has to fit within the tappet cup). The 1.290" O.D. springs will fit, but I'd like to know if I have the height under my cam boxes to run them.
- Marc
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Couldn't you just shim the boxes up as far as needed? It's possible to get Gilmer belts in custom lengths if that made the timing belt too short. How about using non-adjustable cups like Alfas have and adjusting the valves with lashcaps under them? (P.I.T.A. but eliminates the cam tiddly-winking the stock shims and reduces valvetrain weight for higher-RPM.)
- Stripped66
- Posts: 1904
- Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2001 12:01 am
Those are good suggestions, Marc, and some may be implemented. As far as shimming the cam box up, this would require a bit of machine work to make the shim in the correct shape; probably more $$$ in labor than anything. This is a last resort.Marc wrote:Couldn't you just shim the boxes up as far as needed? It's possible to get Gilmer belts in custom lengths if that made the timing belt too short. How about using non-adjustable cups like Alfas have and adjusting the valves with lashcaps under them? (P.I.T.A. but eliminates the cam tiddly-winking the stock shims and reduces valvetrain weight for higher-RPM.)
Already, stock length VW valve stems are too long for my application without going to cam box shims; too bad, because 42 x 37mm 8mm-stemmed VW valves would be a perfect and inexpensive replacement (stock on my 1608 is 41.5 x 36.5).
The valve shims on the Fiat tappet cups are not too bad. I took my 1756 up to 8000 a few times with stock springs (with performance cams...think E-110 lift and E-130 duration) without valve float. This 1608 will certainly be up in that range more often; but if the base circle diameter on the new cams are too small, I will run lash caps in order to reduce the overall shim thickness.
I doubt I will run into coil bind with the relativelt low lift I am running; I'm just worried about horrendous seat pressures because I'm already about .200" short of stock ACVW valve lengths.
[edit: I'm wrong...I'll hit coil bind at the installed height of my stock valves. Maybe I'll look into some ACVW-length valves and run the LS1 springs and shim the cam boxes (gonna be a bitch)...or wait for the Type-1 springs and see what their installed height is.]