1776 split bus motor (and redux boxes)

[Busguy71]

Also, the timing has been set anywhere from 10 BTDC to 35 BTDC, 10 degrees runs the coolest, anything less and the motor doesnt start or run well. I took the thermostat out and left the fan shroud flaps in, so they're open all the time. Basically I'm screwed

[guest]

dude, if you have an 009 dist, you can't the timing with the car off, you must set it at 28 to 32 deg at 3000 rpm's (that is around when the advance is all in)

the 009's are crap, and can't be trusted to advance correctly, so you have to do it when it is advancing all the way.

This could be a major source of overheating

[Busguy71]

I've heard they're good and I've heard they're crap......I'll take your word and swap back my old distributor and see what happens. What should I set the timing to on the stock one? 10 degrees or so?

[Erik G]

don't get me wrong, they are very good at what they where ment to be, a cheap fits all volkswagens kind of part. If you have dual carbs, it is the easiest to run, and of course you can get the points and cap and rotor anywhere. I run an 009 in my bus, but I check the timing at full advance (3000 rpm's) and make sure it's inbetween 28-32 degrees, I usually go all the way to 32, and then back it off till it quits pinging, and then just a little more. on my 1500 it is usually about 29 1/2. I then drive it up hill in 4th, if my bus is going to ping, thats where it's gonna happen. once I am satisfied there is no way it will ping, but is still advanced as much as it can be without pinging, I relax because I know it's perfect.


It has been so long since I owned a vw with a stock dist, I really couldnt tell you where to set it, I'm sure it is dependent on the case, and I'm sure the cam and bigger piston's would also change the optimum setting.

If the bread is there, Aircooled.net sells completely adjustable dist, but I never have that kind of dough to spend on xtras....

If you want to go any route other than the 009, I suggest you start a new thread asking what settings to use, listing your case # and all of your known components. Maybe ask on the performance forum, it would be the same on a bus as it would be in any other car with the same motor. Peace

[truckersmike]

I just want to throw my 2 cents into the mix. First off, there shouldn't be any problem putting a 1776 or larger engine in a split bus with redux boxes. Even if the engine was built for speed, it will still be stronger then the stock. It just may not have the low end you are looking for but it won't be struggling to do 55-60 like a stock. The bus tranny is designed to take up to 100hp.

Also, Busguy71. If you are hitting temps as high as 245 on a 1776 when it's only 80 outside, you have some major problems. I thought I was complaining when my 1904 was hitting 240-245 when it was 110. A 1776 is not that big of a motor to be creating those kinds of temps. It could be a poop engine but it's most likely jetting, timing, CR, exhaust, loose fan belt etc. The extra heat is because your heads are too hot. You need to find out why.

On my 1904, I took the heater boxes off and exchange them with J tubes and I dropped 20 degrees. She ran 220-225 when it was 98 out side. I still have more work to do but I feel I am on the right path.

[Busguy71]

Thanks all you guys for the advice. I'm gonna fiddle with is as soon as I get a chance, but I'm stuck at college 120 miles away from my VW Maybe I'll get home his weekend......... I'll let you know what I find out.