stroker drawbacks

Advokat · Post by **Advokat** » Sat Jan 25, 2003 7:10 pm

Kubelman:

I spent alot of time being confused about my selections for my 1904 and with the help of those on this, and other lists, I am just about finished building.

You already know about the jugs, crank and rods. The heads I'm to run are from AJ Simms, full P & P and w/dual springs. I was ordering h/d singles, but I caught a mistake on his website and he insisted on the duals for no extra charge. I mention this because if you are going to run larger than stock valve sizes (as I am), the heater boxes need to stay in storage unless you are going to pay the big money for those hi-po boxes that Berg manufactures. Otherwise, things may be too restrictive and will create a bunch of heat. This point was one that made me consider different heads since it gets cold where I live. (Actually, it gives me an excuse to build a stock motor w/heat when I'm through with this one.)

Anyway, AJ was adamant that with the heads I was going to run that a 1 5/8" merged system was the way to go as the 1.5" system would be too restrictive. So, I had to exchange the 1.5" system I had already purchased prior to finalizing my order w/Simms.

I am running a Web 119 (pretty mild) w/Web lifters. The dual springs necessitated h/d pushrods and I went w/the Aircooled.net super duty aluminum ones and will still be able to set my valves w/stock lash-unlike chromoly.

All in all, if I were first building it now, I would probably do as Bob suggested and went with the smaller valves and held on to my heat and used a 1.5" exhaust. Kymco makes a nice one with flanges that you weld to the boxes for a leak-free union.

Sorry to be so long-winded, but you have alot of the same questions that I had when I was first thinking this out.

Good luck

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Sat Jan 25, 2003 7:36 pm

Thank _A good input
small valves w/heater boxes and 1.5" exhaust. Suggestions requested for head and cam selection. K-mann

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Sat Jan 25, 2003 8:22 pm

Just checked out the Kymco 1.5" header with heater boxes. Yes sir!!! That is one more part of the 1904 on the fer shure list. Thanks for this tip. Heads, Lifters and Cam next up. Keep the help coming. What kind of bearings go on that stroker crank? Yum Yum rollers... K-mann

Chubb Tubb · Post by **Chubb Tubb** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 9:17 am

hay rangtang yol git sum 041s an put em on yer moter fer heds wif a 110 kam an hol sum serous @$$ yer fren stub hope i din messup my spelin two bad

Advokat · Post by **Advokat** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 10:12 am

Kubelman:

You can spring for the whole system with the boxes, etc. OR you can just get their 1.5" system that comes w/flanges for you to weld onto your stock boxes. There is a major $$ difference.

As to heads, you can get these damn near anywhere for prices that are all over the barnyard. Take a look at AJ Simms' site (www.lowbugget.com). He is a hell of a nice guy and will talk with you about what you want/need. Also, the good thing about AJ is that his prices are competetive and his will have a full P&P, 3 angle job, etc.-for sure.

As to the bearings, that will depend on your case and actual crank, i.e., whether you need oversize ones or not. The bearings, however, are stock type 1 parts that you can buy at any parts house once you know what size you need. I think the crank Jose sold me was standard on the rod journals and 10 on the mains. So, don't buy bearings until you know what your crank is going to be.

Good luck,
Rick

[This message has been edited by Advokat (edited 01-26-2003).]

[This message has been edited by Advokat (edited 01-26-2003).]

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 1:38 pm

Just went up to get engine tin together to go to the big parts steam cleaner at the dealership where my fren works. Took another hard look at the header that came off Kubelmann. 1.5" fatboy muffler just out side rust on extractor tubes and one heat exchanger rusted on. I could POR-20 the outside cut the rusted box off and weld a new connecter on but what about cleaning out the innards There is some fer real carbon inside. Thoughts? We are talking about saving $350 that I do not have in the first place. K-mann

Runnerjohn · Post by **Runnerjohn** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 3:02 pm

I like the sound of this setup! I think I may have just changed direction on what I was going to build...

Now, what about the carb(s)? For a setup like his, would a single or dual carbs be best? I've been looking at the dual 40 Webers, but I remember someone saying a single 44 would be better for torque.

Thanks, guys! Great info!

John

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 3:43 pm

John: You as well as I are being guided to the perfect mill through this forum. Notice the volume of posts! I was totally going for old school carb via Zenith 32 -- I was just on AJ's site (see earlier posts) and am now geting back to a idea I had left behind. $400 for dual Cadrons complete. AJ puts the entire package in line for your motor situation and driving habits. I messed up scoring a nice sand buggy lst summer for $800 that had that carb set up and Centerline rims all around with rubber. I was major bummer. Since then I have changed and grown so much. But now I am thinking about dual Cadrons again. Go to www.lowbugget.com. K-mann

James2 · Post by **James2** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 5:47 pm

112°.

just learned that

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 6:23 pm

041 Style Head features 39mm x 32mm valves and all the bell and whistles. Optional 90.5 / 92mm or 94mm Cut for an additional $15.00 per head $150 http://www.blimpvw.com/heads.html

AJ's head are awesome but the price seemed very high.

As featured in last months VW Trends Project Budget Beater 1914 cc for a grand.

Because I want torque first, hp second and rpm last I will go 110 on the cam.

I have read AJ's procedure on a Kadron before but had forgotten when you get them from him. At my altitude and situation he offers stuff that money can't buy. RW

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 11:31 pm

Check out the new dual header through the bumper exhaust system on http://www.thingsforthething.com/
under exhaust.
I need new heat exchanger boxes anyway so Kymco complete might be right for me.
(new boxes go for nearly $150)
I can't figure out what the cost of the Kymco minus boxes is> I have an extra set of boxes on my parts car that may be good. I have not pulled them yet to check them.
K-mann

Brad · Post by **Brad** » Mon Jan 27, 2003 4:38 am

I am running a 76 Crank in one of those new alloy cases and had to clearance the case. I left the rods as stock and am using 041 heads with stock springs. I hope to fire her up next week fingures crossed.
I ended up going with a pr of 44 IDF webbers as one throat per cylinder made sense,

This is goind in my manx

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Mon Jan 27, 2003 8:13 am

-Brad not to change the subject from your great looking engine but I would like to know what the wheels are on the bay bus in the background. I`ve spent a lot of time at your site looking over the projects of you and Wes. Keep the good stuff coming our way. Good luck. Bob Ingman

Brad · Post by **Brad** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:06 am

Hey good eyes... they are 16" mags from T3. I have sent you some info.

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Fri Feb 07, 2003 11:55 pm

New info needed. Here is the current 1904 Kubelmann Mill list

90.5 Mahle pistons jugs $160 empi

DPR Crank 74mm ($365) +rods ($60) lightened flywheel?
714 979-7441 (Jose
Heads $270 041 39mm x 32mm valves
c valves and all the bell and whistles. Optional 90.5 / 92mm or 94mm Cut for an additional $15.00 per head $150 doublespring chromoly keepers port & polish. http://www.blimpvw.com/heads.html

Web Cam? 110 $85

Thought here are appreciated. K-mann