bullet proof 1600SP
- sparkmaster1
- Moderator
- Posts: 1978
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2001 1:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
A 1300 head has the same intake as a 1500,1600 head. The 1200 head (40 horse) has a flat straight up intake. I could send you some pics if you need them. New valves are readily available at any parts source. The Berg shafts and swivel feet would be a good choice. Tim
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bayareathrasher
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2002 12:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
try a web cam 119 - .422" lift x 276 duration. i have it in my 1600SP with dual ICTs and its runs sweet.
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MASSIVE TYPE IV
- Posts: 20132
- Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2000 12:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
I have THE CAM for a s/p 1600, split lift and duration and really makes up for that siamese intake port design....
A single port rocks!!
------------------
Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com
A single port rocks!!
------------------
Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com
- sparkmaster1
- Moderator
- Posts: 1978
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2001 1:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
I'll get those pics for you when I can. They look identical to a single port 1600 head but with smaller valves. They will also start with a 113# I have a set that have already been opened up for 1600's somewhere if you're interested. They came on '66 type 1's and a couple of years of type 2's I believe. Tim
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rozbug
- Posts: 501
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2002 12:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
Tim- I sent you some email.
- sparkmaster1
- Moderator
- Posts: 1978
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2001 1:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
I got it. The pictures should be on thier way. Tim
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rozbug
- Posts: 501
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2002 12:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
sparkmaster- Could you email some photos or something. I think I might have 1200 heads then. The ports are a little bigger then a quarter and the rocker blocks are round. I know for sure they aren't 36hp heads because 36hp heads were altogether smaller.
I am considering using a split duration cam for aircooled.net, but I am not sure yet.
I am considering using a split duration cam for aircooled.net, but I am not sure yet.
- Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rozbug:
<B> I never heard of using 1300 (40hp?) heads on a 1600. It's funny, because I do have a couple sets. They have 32mm intake and 30mm exh. I'd have to get them bored out and use the 40hp intake. Finding replacement exh valves would be fun too.
Is that a legitimate way to run a 1600? Sounds interesting. I want to find out more.... what carb would I use?....
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
40HP heads (32x30) will work OK up to 1500 in my experience (although you need to widen the intake manifold). We did quite a bit of experimenting back in the "fuel-crisis" days to try and find the most cost-effective way to squeeze more MPG out of a Type I, and came to the conclusion that the 1300 33x30 head on a 1584 or 1641 was a good solution. You can use any `66-`70 intake manifold, although I'd try to find a `66 unit if you can (they're slightly smaller, match the 1300 ports better). I've used 28PCI and PICT-1 carbs as well as 30PICT-1 and -3 and Weber 1-bbls; 30PICT-1 seems to be the best choice overall, although a (rejetted) 28 will give a little better mileage. Any time you use a carb on an engine of different size than it was designed for you need to be concerned that it won't be working in the right region of its A/F curve and the jetting that's right around town won't be on the highway, and the 28 can get you in trouble (when set up for a good highway mixture you end up too lean at lower speeds, and I've forgotten what emulsion tube we finally ended up with to solve the problem). With the 30, simple main jet changes are the most you should be bothered with.
I threw theory out on one "bastard" 1641 and ran 33x32 valves successfully - just opened up the stock 30mm seats to stuff them in - can't say that it really worked any better, but worth mentioning if you're concerned about 30mm valve availability. Even with the 30mm exhaust valves it'll still respond to a header, but it's mostly psychological at the RPMs where the combination shines.
For your trouble, you get a few more MPG and impressive throttle response in traffic - although it'll still wind beyond those "suggested shift point" red marks on the speedo there's not much point in it.
My dad used to keep impeccable gas mileage records and a 13/1600 with a 28PICT-1 and stock muffler gave him ~35MPG overall with a highway best of 42, using a recurved 009 that yielded 36° total...pretty impressive for a 7.5:1 Regular-gas motor; since you probably don't drive like an old-man-in-a-hat your mileage "will vary" but it'll definitely be better than the average 1600.
P.S. ...another vote for stock springs, they're more than adequate for 5000RPM let alone 4000.
<B> I never heard of using 1300 (40hp?) heads on a 1600. It's funny, because I do have a couple sets. They have 32mm intake and 30mm exh. I'd have to get them bored out and use the 40hp intake. Finding replacement exh valves would be fun too.
Is that a legitimate way to run a 1600? Sounds interesting. I want to find out more.... what carb would I use?....
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
40HP heads (32x30) will work OK up to 1500 in my experience (although you need to widen the intake manifold). We did quite a bit of experimenting back in the "fuel-crisis" days to try and find the most cost-effective way to squeeze more MPG out of a Type I, and came to the conclusion that the 1300 33x30 head on a 1584 or 1641 was a good solution. You can use any `66-`70 intake manifold, although I'd try to find a `66 unit if you can (they're slightly smaller, match the 1300 ports better). I've used 28PCI and PICT-1 carbs as well as 30PICT-1 and -3 and Weber 1-bbls; 30PICT-1 seems to be the best choice overall, although a (rejetted) 28 will give a little better mileage. Any time you use a carb on an engine of different size than it was designed for you need to be concerned that it won't be working in the right region of its A/F curve and the jetting that's right around town won't be on the highway, and the 28 can get you in trouble (when set up for a good highway mixture you end up too lean at lower speeds, and I've forgotten what emulsion tube we finally ended up with to solve the problem). With the 30, simple main jet changes are the most you should be bothered with.
I threw theory out on one "bastard" 1641 and ran 33x32 valves successfully - just opened up the stock 30mm seats to stuff them in - can't say that it really worked any better, but worth mentioning if you're concerned about 30mm valve availability. Even with the 30mm exhaust valves it'll still respond to a header, but it's mostly psychological at the RPMs where the combination shines.
For your trouble, you get a few more MPG and impressive throttle response in traffic - although it'll still wind beyond those "suggested shift point" red marks on the speedo there's not much point in it.
My dad used to keep impeccable gas mileage records and a 13/1600 with a 28PICT-1 and stock muffler gave him ~35MPG overall with a highway best of 42, using a recurved 009 that yielded 36° total...pretty impressive for a 7.5:1 Regular-gas motor; since you probably don't drive like an old-man-in-a-hat your mileage "will vary" but it'll definitely be better than the average 1600.
P.S. ...another vote for stock springs, they're more than adequate for 5000RPM let alone 4000.
- Veedubber63
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Thu Dec 26, 2002 12:01 am
bullet proof 1600SP
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Marc:
<B> 40HP heads (32x30) will work OK up to 1500 in my experience (although you need to widen the intake manifold). We did quite a bit of experimenting back in the "fuel-crisis" days to try and find the most cost-effective way to squeeze more MPG out of a Type I, and came to the conclusion that the 1300 33x30 head on a 1584 or 1641 was a good solution. You can use any `66-`70 intake manifold, although I'd try to find a `66 unit if you can (they're slightly smaller, match the 1300 ports better). I've used 28PCI and PICT-1 carbs as well as 30PICT-1 and -3 and Weber 1-bbls; 30PICT-1 seems to be the best choice overall, although a (rejetted) 28 will give a little better mileage. Any time you use a carb on an engine of different size than it was designed for you need to be concerned that it won't be working in the right region of its A/F curve and the jetting that's right around town won't be on the highway, and the 28 can get you in trouble (when set up for a good highway mixture you end up too lean at lower speeds, and I've forgotten what emulsion tube we finally ended up with to solve the problem). With the 30, simple main jet changes are the most you should be bothered with.
I threw theory out on one "bastard" 1641 and ran 33x32 valves successfully - just opened up the stock 30mm seats to stuff them in - can't say that it really worked any better, but worth mentioning if you're concerned about 30mm valve availability. Even with the 30mm exhaust valves it'll still respond to a header, but it's mostly psychological at the RPMs where the combination shines.
For your trouble, you get a few more MPG and impressive throttle response in traffic - although it'll still wind beyond those "suggested shift point" red marks on the speedo there's not much point in it.
My dad used to keep impeccable gas mileage records and a 13/1600 with a 28PICT-1 and stock muffler gave him ~35MPG overall with a highway best of 42, using a recurved 009 that yielded 36° total...pretty impressive for a 7.5:1 Regular-gas motor; since you probably don't drive like an old-man-in-a-hat your mileage "will vary" but it'll definitely be better than the average 1600.
P.S. ...another vote for stock springs, they're more than adequate for 5000RPM let alone 4000.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hey Marc, Would it work the same way if using a 1300 sp engine and upgrade to the 1600 or 1641 P/C's?
Thanks,
J.W.
<B> 40HP heads (32x30) will work OK up to 1500 in my experience (although you need to widen the intake manifold). We did quite a bit of experimenting back in the "fuel-crisis" days to try and find the most cost-effective way to squeeze more MPG out of a Type I, and came to the conclusion that the 1300 33x30 head on a 1584 or 1641 was a good solution. You can use any `66-`70 intake manifold, although I'd try to find a `66 unit if you can (they're slightly smaller, match the 1300 ports better). I've used 28PCI and PICT-1 carbs as well as 30PICT-1 and -3 and Weber 1-bbls; 30PICT-1 seems to be the best choice overall, although a (rejetted) 28 will give a little better mileage. Any time you use a carb on an engine of different size than it was designed for you need to be concerned that it won't be working in the right region of its A/F curve and the jetting that's right around town won't be on the highway, and the 28 can get you in trouble (when set up for a good highway mixture you end up too lean at lower speeds, and I've forgotten what emulsion tube we finally ended up with to solve the problem). With the 30, simple main jet changes are the most you should be bothered with.
I threw theory out on one "bastard" 1641 and ran 33x32 valves successfully - just opened up the stock 30mm seats to stuff them in - can't say that it really worked any better, but worth mentioning if you're concerned about 30mm valve availability. Even with the 30mm exhaust valves it'll still respond to a header, but it's mostly psychological at the RPMs where the combination shines.
For your trouble, you get a few more MPG and impressive throttle response in traffic - although it'll still wind beyond those "suggested shift point" red marks on the speedo there's not much point in it.
My dad used to keep impeccable gas mileage records and a 13/1600 with a 28PICT-1 and stock muffler gave him ~35MPG overall with a highway best of 42, using a recurved 009 that yielded 36° total...pretty impressive for a 7.5:1 Regular-gas motor; since you probably don't drive like an old-man-in-a-hat your mileage "will vary" but it'll definitely be better than the average 1600.
P.S. ...another vote for stock springs, they're more than adequate for 5000RPM let alone 4000.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hey Marc, Would it work the same way if using a 1300 sp engine and upgrade to the 1600 or 1641 P/C's?
Thanks,
J.W.