1.7 keep the fuel injection or get carbs

volksguy · Post by **volksguy** » Fri Mar 07, 2003 11:56 pm

ok from looking at it on the end were the plug would be i can see the screw inside and the lip around it has a spot that was ground down a little looks like to mark it. then if you pur the electric connection up looking at the screw at 9oclock there has been a cut made into the casing right on the side of wehre the round area is with four bumps it makes like a circle x looking thing then anouther at about 7 olclock if blow into the end with the screw air comes out the cuts

if i suck on the vac hose side i can hear the bellows move and then pops back as i let go

is there a heating element in there if so should it make the case warm

volksguy · Post by **volksguy** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 1:03 am

here are pics of the mps theres two of them want more pics of stuff just ask
www.spotlife.com/users3/volksguy/webalbum

Dave_Darling · Post by **Dave_Darling** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 7:01 am

There is no heating element.

Seriously, man, go to http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders and look through the D-jet info on there. There are pictures and everything, too. You'll have a much better idea of what's going on once you've gotten through that.

--DD

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1974 VW-Porsche 914 2.0 (Type IV powered!)

Pelican Parts' 914 Tech Geek http://www.pelicanparts.com

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 7:44 am

Yes...please look at the link Dave listed so you will have the part names down. The cuts you are talking about...are normal. The application of vacume...and if it holds vaqcume until released...is normal. The r emoval of the rear plu g to get at the adjusting screw is common. Yes...I am sure they marked where they were. You need to find the outer plug or cap. You cannot run without it. It is an adjustment also. That is rarely if ever in the books...but its fact. Also there are two adjusting screws inside. The slotted one in the center...and if you look closely....there is a hex key fitting for a hollow hex key , around the slotted screw in the center. You must hold that still while turning the center screw. Read the link...before you start playing. Ray

Bleyseng · Post by **Bleyseng** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 9:19 am

The hole drilled in the Full throttle stop plug is typical of someone trying to adjust the part load screw. That is the inside slotted screw in the MPS. That can be adjusted as follows:
Have a helper try to hold steady the engine rpms at 2500
You slowly adjust the screw CW/CCW until the engine runs the best while using a second screwdriver to hold the position of the outer screw.
-OR follow the procedure at Brads site using a Wavetek meter.
ONLY do the adjustments after you have tracked down all the vacuum leaks, tuned up the points, plugs, spark plug wires, reset the timing etc......
Geoff

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76 914 2.1L
www.914Club.com member

volksguy · Post by **volksguy** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 12:21 pm

my mps is put together with screws look factory and one has a paint mark on it is this factory or a possiabilty of a rebuilt one ??

the larage aluminum plug screw is there but someone has driled a hole in it to get to the other maybe to be able to addjust the inside screw without the removal of the plug the plug has had a spot ground down that make it lock with the case. should the plug sit flush, into the case, or stick out or is never the same mine is flush.

i check its resitence i had 90 between 7 and 15 and 400 between 8 and 10 and nothing between the terminals and case

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 3:26 pm

Actually it sounds like you are in good shape. The screws are normal. Some are even riveted. The readings are within limits. The paint mark is anti-tamper warning from the factory...usually yellow or green. The prvious owner probably realized a couple of things...which is good. They realized ta
hat the plug needed to remain in a certain position. So they fixed where it would not turn. Wether the plug is set to the correct limit is questionaqble, but easy to adjust. They then drilled a hole in the plug to access the mixture control screw underneath. Nothing wrong with that. There is no vacume under this plug so the hole does not hurt anything.Ray

Bleyseng · Post by **Bleyseng** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 3:37 pm

If a MPS has been drilled after readjusting it I fill the hole with hot glue to keep dirt out.
Geoff

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76 914 2.1L
www.914Club.com member

Dave_Darling · Post by **Dave_Darling** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 4:20 pm

All of the MPSes that I have bought new (not rebuilt) had rivets holding the two parts together. All of the rebuilt ones (home-done or done by Brett Industries) that I have seen had screws.

There are also a large number I've seen that had either rivets or screws that I didn't know if they were NOS or rebuilt.

--DD

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1974 VW-Porsche 914 2.0 (Type IV powered!)

Pelican Parts' 914 Tech Geek http://www.pelicanparts.com

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:26 pm

I have seen them both on new, but mainly riveted. I have a new in the box non-diaphram type 3 MPS with screws. They are always factory cheese head screws tapped into the body stock. I know they are factory, because they are a good deal smaller in diameter than the rivets that come out of the riveted models. I prefer the riveted ones. The screws almost always strip the slot trying to get them out. I put 7mm nut and bolt assembly through the riveted ones. I agree that its good to fill the hole in the plug. It gets enough moisture on the copperplate from the vent slots in the back.Ray

volksguy · Post by **volksguy** » Sat Mar 08, 2003 6:01 pm

i check for timing it 27 btdc check for intake and vacum leaks and found none i was going to check the injector trigger points but couldnt figure out how to get them out also checked ohm reading on manifold temp sensor and head temp the head temp was a little high but it might not of been fully hot yet. also wanted to check for a leaky cold start valve but the pages i went to didnt really explain that so whats the best way to. i checked the throtle switch and it makes 20 clicks exactly ever time.

i guess my best bet for now is to be happy with its performance but poor gas milage 22-25 on the highway is ok but sure would like to get the 30+ i hear about

i guess my problems lie within tuning the mixture but i thinki i will wait to tune it when i get a o2 gauge

just another question has anyone ever put a flowmaster on a 914 and if so which one i want more of troaty growl not just the sound of air coming out when i step on it. i was thinking either the 40 series delta flow or the import delta not sure

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Sun Mar 09, 2003 12:10 pm

A couple of notes. The timing must be checked at 3500 rpm with hoses to vacume advance on. You will find that it runs a good bit beter if all is stock with about 10 BTDC..which will equate to about 32-34 BTDC @3500 rpm. Long before you start changing exhausts...you need to get a hold of the fuel mixture adustments to your MPC, because changing the exhaust will change the mixture as well. To check and clean the triggers, you need to bring the engine arond to TDC (just easier that way)..and remove the distributor. Then e-time it. D-jet is also very sensitive to valve adjustment. It must be dead on. Check the valve adjustment again when warmed up. Correct any major differences. Also..how did your fuel pressure read? Checking for a leaking cold start injector means removing the valve from the manifold (two screws). Since the distributor is in the way...its a good time to check the triggers. Once the cold start valve is out...blip the key without starting..several times..to charge the fuel lines. Look at the injector for leaks and drips. Its agood idea to go ahead and replace your injector seals at the same time...and have the injectors out and check them for leaks as well. Ray

Bleyseng · Post by **Bleyseng** » Sun Mar 09, 2003 3:01 pm

Damn good advice Ray, especially on the timing. They love it at 32-34 BTDC at 3500rpms.
Geoff

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76 914 2.1L
www.914Club.com member

volksguy · Post by **volksguy** » Sun Mar 09, 2003 8:24 pm

that seems like a big jump in adavance wont that also throw off the mixture and is there a chance that much will make it knock and maybe get detation ?? i dont run the good gas anymore becuase of the hike in gas prices simply cant afford it i drive long distances alot in the car 170+ miles a day

volksguy · Post by **volksguy** » Sun Mar 09, 2003 8:28 pm

the 32-34 bdtc timing that set with both line off the distributor right and at 3500 what would it be at idle like this so i can check to see if my distributor is making a full advance curve