Marco / Jesper
Any chance of some more details on your cooling systems - both of you cars seemed to have escaped swiss cheese disease bonnets whilst still running front mounted rads.
Also, where have you run your pipes, what bore etc???
Lastly, Marco, since you're in the UK, who did you get to build your Wasserboxer? I don't know anyone who'll touch them....
And what're the specs? (sorry if you've put this up before - If you have I can't find it!)
ta,
........Guy.
Pictures of members Motors
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Steve C
- Posts: 1143
- Joined: Sun May 14, 2000 12:01 am
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Hi
Im using 1.5 inch stainless tubing. It runs down each side of the chassis and follows the 8 mm bolts that go into the heater channels. So they are dog leg shape. I then use some more stainless tubing to connect to the motor and radiator with some rubber connectors here and there. My bug is a Superbug so the radiator sits upright in the spare wheel well.
Regards Steve C
Im using 1.5 inch stainless tubing. It runs down each side of the chassis and follows the 8 mm bolts that go into the heater channels. So they are dog leg shape. I then use some more stainless tubing to connect to the motor and radiator with some rubber connectors here and there. My bug is a Superbug so the radiator sits upright in the spare wheel well.
Regards Steve C
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marco the steem engine
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2001 1:01 am
Pictures of members Motors
T25 waterboxer
2110cc
10.5-1 compretion
polished and ported stock heads
40-35mm valves 3 angle valve job
gene burg 280lb duel springs
1.25-1 rockers with bolt up shafts
bugpack HD push rod's
Johnson T4 HD solid lifters
stock rods shotpeened, balanced with ARP bolts
ARP stainles steel head studs(the dog's bolock's)
Kent Cam's steel billet 308deg/520lift
FAT 200mm T4 10,5lb flywheel with 5 ARP sleeved bolts and 5 8mm dowles
2100Kep cluch and woven solid disc
Wolf3D fuel injection
crank triggered
sagem coil pack 60 000 volts
EFI hardware 45mm IDA throtalbodies
Built by Max Morly(Volkspears Highgate london)
made 148bhp/5700rpm at the rear wheels(with 48 IDA's 009dizzy and pertronics)
with fuel Injection TBA!
In my 63 bug
The head's needed the spring seat to be made deeper by 2mm to acomadate 520thou lift
the cooling system is nearly the same as Steve C but I used 35mm Industral copper pipe and havent had one problem since I fited it.
Steve how did you de compress the motor fom 10.5 to 8 -1 as my next step is to supercharge I would like 7-1 con you help?
2110cc
10.5-1 compretion
polished and ported stock heads
40-35mm valves 3 angle valve job
gene burg 280lb duel springs
1.25-1 rockers with bolt up shafts
bugpack HD push rod's
Johnson T4 HD solid lifters
stock rods shotpeened, balanced with ARP bolts
ARP stainles steel head studs(the dog's bolock's)
Kent Cam's steel billet 308deg/520lift
FAT 200mm T4 10,5lb flywheel with 5 ARP sleeved bolts and 5 8mm dowles
2100Kep cluch and woven solid disc
Wolf3D fuel injection
crank triggered
sagem coil pack 60 000 volts
EFI hardware 45mm IDA throtalbodies
Built by Max Morly(Volkspears Highgate london)
made 148bhp/5700rpm at the rear wheels(with 48 IDA's 009dizzy and pertronics)
with fuel Injection TBA!
In my 63 bug
The head's needed the spring seat to be made deeper by 2mm to acomadate 520thou lift
the cooling system is nearly the same as Steve C but I used 35mm Industral copper pipe and havent had one problem since I fited it.
Steve how did you de compress the motor fom 10.5 to 8 -1 as my next step is to supercharge I would like 7-1 con you help?
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Steve C
- Posts: 1143
- Joined: Sun May 14, 2000 12:01 am
Pictures of members Motors
Hi Marco
I think your motor is like mine the Euro spec DJ motor 10.5:1 I used some MV spec factory 9:1 pistons and had the dome machined out deeper in the middle of the piston and this got it down to 8.00:1. As you know the WBX pistons have the combustion chamber in them so I couldnt find any other pistons to use. You may have better luck in your neck of the woods. Do you need to go down to 7: 1? I have been running my bug for some time with the low comp and injection and it has very good power considering its mild state of tune. It put out 84 hp at the back wheels with low comp, stock cam, 1.4 rockers, tidied up heads and Autronic SMC injection, the 9: 1 Vanagon motor is rated at 90hp at the flywheel. So off boost my car will still be quiet tractable.
Regards Steve C
I think your motor is like mine the Euro spec DJ motor 10.5:1 I used some MV spec factory 9:1 pistons and had the dome machined out deeper in the middle of the piston and this got it down to 8.00:1. As you know the WBX pistons have the combustion chamber in them so I couldnt find any other pistons to use. You may have better luck in your neck of the woods. Do you need to go down to 7: 1? I have been running my bug for some time with the low comp and injection and it has very good power considering its mild state of tune. It put out 84 hp at the back wheels with low comp, stock cam, 1.4 rockers, tidied up heads and Autronic SMC injection, the 9: 1 Vanagon motor is rated at 90hp at the flywheel. So off boost my car will still be quiet tractable.
Regards Steve C
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jesus
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sun May 27, 2001 12:01 am
Pictures of members Motors
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Guy:
<B>Marco / Jesper
Any chance of some more details on your cooling systems - both of you cars seemed to have escaped swiss cheese disease bonnets whilst still running front mounted rads.
Also, where have you run your pipes, what bore etc???
Lastly, Marco, since you're in the UK, who did you get to build your Wasserboxer? I don't know anyone who'll touch them....
And what're the specs? (sorry if you've put this up before - If you have I can't find it!)
ta,
........Guy.
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hi
I use 32mm Rubber Boat Cooling hose all
the way from the motor to the radiator
in the heater channels.
The radiator is mountet in place of the spare wheel. And for the heating i used
12mm Copper pipes.Last weekend i drove 400 km.(Bug run Sweden)with a broken fan without any proplems,
Regards Jesper
<B>Marco / Jesper
Any chance of some more details on your cooling systems - both of you cars seemed to have escaped swiss cheese disease bonnets whilst still running front mounted rads.
Also, where have you run your pipes, what bore etc???
Lastly, Marco, since you're in the UK, who did you get to build your Wasserboxer? I don't know anyone who'll touch them....
And what're the specs? (sorry if you've put this up before - If you have I can't find it!)
ta,
........Guy.
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hi
I use 32mm Rubber Boat Cooling hose all
the way from the motor to the radiator
in the heater channels.
The radiator is mountet in place of the spare wheel. And for the heating i used
12mm Copper pipes.Last weekend i drove 400 km.(Bug run Sweden)with a broken fan without any proplems,
Regards Jesper
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PapaG
- Posts: 729
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2001 12:01 am
Pictures of members Motors
I don't know how hot it gets in Denmark
but in places where it gets hot a little spoiler could be added to direct some air flow up to the radatior.
------------------
Lost in Texas with Bluebonnets and Bluebell Icecream
but in places where it gets hot a little spoiler could be added to direct some air flow up to the radatior.
------------------
Lost in Texas with Bluebonnets and Bluebell Icecream
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marco the steem engine
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2001 1:01 am
Pictures of members Motors
Got some Pic's of my cooling system at last my car been sprayed for the last 2 months,
I used 35mm industal copper(the copper is 3mm thick), a VW polo radator.
All the air(cold) enter's the little hole at the front and is sucked through by the fan , there is usely a cover on the radiator witch seal's the front from the back to stop the hot air recurculating this is the most inportant thing, and the fan MUST work or your in trouble when in trafic, when crusing there is enought air moving through the rad for the fan not to come on(I was suprised!)
I used 35mm industal copper(the copper is 3mm thick), a VW polo radator.
All the air(cold) enter's the little hole at the front and is sucked through by the fan , there is usely a cover on the radiator witch seal's the front from the back to stop the hot air recurculating this is the most inportant thing, and the fan MUST work or your in trouble when in trafic, when crusing there is enought air moving through the rad for the fan not to come on(I was suprised!)