Type 4 for My Ghia

[jwmorris]

Piledriver, do you have a link to the coatings you are suggesting. I Googled Techline and came up with this:

https://techlinecoatings.com/new-intern ... -coatings/#

The instructions for their products calls for sandblasting, spraying the product, and not using an oven food will be cooked in....

https://www.myfortune3cart.com/techline ... ctions.pdf

I did find the product from aircooled.net.

Thanks In Advance!

[jwmorris]

Is there anyone on the east coast that does quality work on used cylinder heads?

[VIPERGREEN76]

NOS,1700 heads are available.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds ... id=2500397

[jwmorris]

Thank you! I did see those, but I am not sure how well heads survive sitting on a shelf for 50 years? I could buy those and assemble them, but I would still need a valve job, right?

As I begin adding up the expenses to rebuild the engine, I can't but help think that I need to build something bigger to make sure I am happy with the outcome. I guess I have slippery slope syndrome. Cams are expensive any way, might as well buy a cam kit. Maybe replace the pistons, might as well go bigger. Maybe just replace the heads, might as well just buy 1.8 heads. There are a lot of choices and a lot of ways to spend money... it adds up quickly.

But as our hobby changes and quality replacement parts become harder and more expensive to find, buy, and ship, a near stock 1.7 seems like a good idea. A long lasting, cool running, adequately powered engine that also gets good gas mileage, that description keeps me thinking of the 1.7. A huge plus is that when rebuild time comes again, I can probably use many of the parts again.

Just thinking out loud. We are losing people; we are losing suppliers. It may be time to bite the bullet now and enjoy the engine for years to come.

I appreciate the help with the many decisions.

[Piledriver]

Most Techline coatings are nontoxic water based and do not require anything but a regular oven , although the piston crown coatings need proper surface prep. Some of their header/turbo coatings and higher end piston crown/chamber/exhaust port coatings are solvent based and thus stinky.
They have aparently been working hard to make their products zero or low VOC if possible.

The nasty stuff comes in larger quantities and is noted "for professional applicators only", and there are folks who apply this stuff for a living, a powder coating company for example may already have most of the required hardware to do it, although this needs more prep.

The powerkote is a bottle of MoS2 dry lubricant (possibly has some WS2), buff on, same as the stuff from Aircooled.net, not sure if the aircooled.net stuff also has mild abrasive to aid ring seating, the Powerkote should also be used for bearings etc.

[jwmorris]

Thanks Piledriver! When searching the web for Techline it can get confusing. There is a commercial site that asks you to register to buy. I also found a webstore with a listing for Powerkote here: http://www.techlinecoatingswebstore.com ... 7oz_2.html

These are the instructions the company has posted:

o Clearance Changes Needed. Excellent For Rod and Main Bearings

APPLICATION:
Sandblast all parts with 120 grit aluminum oxide.
DO NOT USE GLASSBEAD. Clean metal using convential
cleaning methods, with acetone, lacquer thinner or
other similar non-petroleum based solvent.When the
surface is clean and dry, apply a thin even layer of
coating using an airbrush, detail touch-up gun
or other spray equipment that allows for application of
a thin film of approximately .001" to .0015". Avoid
excessive build-up of material as this can lead to loss
of adhesion. DO NOT APPLY A SECOND COAT AFTER
THE COATING DRIES. Allow to air dry and Cure at 300f for 1 hour.


CLEAN UP: Clean equipment withwater

DANGER: Non Flammable


READ DATA SHEET AND M.S.D.S. BEFORE USING

The company also has other items available. One product recommends using white cotton gloves for handling the parts after treatment. I think I will look into having someone do the coating for me.

[jwmorris]

I received a sad email when I last contacted aircooled.net. The web ordering is down. They offered to take an order over the phone, but I have not heard from them in over a week. Aircooled.net has been/is a great resource I hope they survive the turmoil.

[Clatter]

Don’t know why,
But something about sandblasting new bearings with 120 grit aluminum oxide…

That would be, er, hard for me to do.
Maybe that’s a misprint or something?

[Clatter]

I received a sad email when I last contacted aircooled.net. The web ordering is down. They offered to take an order over the phone, but I have not heard from them in over a week. Aircooled.net has been/is a great resource I hope they survive the turmoil.

Ya,
They were the best and i used them for years.
During covid i had a bunch of stuff on eternal backorder there.
Ended up going other places i like less, but since i needed parts..

Been a hard go for them lately.
Hoping they hold on.
When they get sussed out at the new place we should all try and support them again.

Don’t know about you guys, but pretty much all my spending money goes to VW parts!

[Piledriver]

Bummer about John, hope things get turned in right direction.

Techlines webshop suffers from copy-and-paste-itus.

Powerkote is a dry lubricant. It does not require baking or sandblasting, it doesnt even technically require oil free parts to stick, just buff on. My assumption is that is some blend of MoS2, WS2 and possibly boron nitride for good measure.

5-10 micron alumina is preferred media for the ceramic coating prep, and everything needs to be squeaky clean first or dirt/oil gets embedded deeper by the blasting....

[jwmorris]

I agree it is probably a cut and paste error. I won't be sandblasting any bearings.

By the way, when I tried to add the powerkote to my cart, I received a message that techline no longer carried the product...!?!
I was able to find it someplace else and placed an order.

I also received new exhaust valves. The new and the old measure very close. I will probably order intake valves too just because. Can someone recommend springs, retainers etc.?
I have been reading and researching and I came across a remark that the stock pushrods were junk? They seem pretty stout to me. Should I replace the pushrods and pushrod tubes?

Considering the scope of this build, re-using as much as possible, would a cam kit from The Type 4 Store be excessive? I would like to replace the cam, lifters, and cam bearings based on everything I have read. Maybe I should make that type of investment when/if I increase displacement?

[Clatter]

I’d really like to see details on how those coatings go for you doing them at home.
Been meaning to start using those but acquiring them was difficult enough that i never followed through.

So keep us posted!

As for springs, you can use type 1 parts (cheap!).
While i’ve never regretted buying a cam kit from the type 4 store,
It’s probably overkill for a mild build.

Stock pushrods are fine for typical single springs,
So long as the length is right.

[jwmorris]

Thanks Clatter!
I am not really sure if I will use the coating. I am still doing research. I went ahead and ordered once I found out it was no longer being made. I received Powerkote CBC1 and the instructions on the bottle do say to blast with aluminum oxide. I emailed Techline today with some questions. Hopefully, I hear from them soon.

I am primarily considering a coating because of the scratched pistons. You can just barely feel the scratches. I am hoping I can still use the domed pistons and matching heads because of the positive things I hear about that combination. If I can't reuse my pistons and heads my plans for this build will change. I need to find someone that can clean, measure them and hone them if they can be used.

For those that clean parts at home how do you dispose of the dirty fluids? Does everyone just go to a carwash for the initial cleaning?

I priced a Webcam, lifters, and gear and the price is close to what a basic cam kit cost from the Type 4 store. I still may go that route especially if I can receive help from them on my cam choice. Otherwise, I will order a 73 from Web cam.

I did order the alternator stand, lower pulley, and dual thrust cam bearings from The Type 4 Store. I also ordered and received the type 4 rebuild DVD.

Do I need to remove and relocate the bearing in the crank to the flywheel? It seems that would only move it the depth of the bearing (3/4"?).

Thanks for all the help!

[Bruce.m]

That’s the correct position in a 914 flywheel from the workshop manual.

[Piledriver]

From memory, the t1 trans input shaft is too short for the deeper set bearing (in crank) location of a T4.

The 914 flywheel is forged,(at least the one off my 2.0L) and had a really thick crank flange. Bolts are longer to match.
On a typical T4 or vanagon flywheel you end up centering the bearing depth wise.
(bearing--- Thick side with lettering goes out, the other rolled end is paper thin)

Note the 914 flywheel ring gear may need trimmed back flush with the PP seating surface. Super wide ring gear.
Oddly a bus or Vanagon flywheel works just fine in a 914-901 transmission, once you have them opened up for the bearing.
(clutch and starter engage perfect)