930’s the good the bad and the ugly

[Leatherneck]

You could use a heavy walled round tube or solid bar to lay on the area after heating to help form the metal so it doesn't have the hammer peened look.

I was thinking maybe with the air cutoff wheel put two slices one closest to the tranny then one on the outside, heat, bend like you wrote about then weld the slit back together.

I guess I’ll use your method alone if I don’t need a lot of space.

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

Any prep I should do?

Kind of looks like with the larger 930’s I might have a clearance problem.
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If you are talking about modifying the flange for fitment then I do not recommend doing it as flanges have more than one reason for being there. Holding the CV in place is one but modifying the flange which probably part of the stiffening of the mount could be compromised.

If that is not what you are talking about then ignore my post.

Lee

[bajaherbie]

I was gonna suggest heating and beating it but that just doesn't sound right does it?

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[Leatherneck]

I was gonna suggest heating and beating it but that just doesn't sound right does it?

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Lol,guess that makes two to heat and beat it.

[CentralWAbaja]

I was gonna suggest heating and beating it but that just doesn't sound right does it?

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Lol,guess that makes two to heat and beat it.

F-it... it's not my car! Heat it and beat it!

[Leatherneck]

I was gonna suggest heating and beating it but that just doesn't sound right does it?

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Lol,guess that makes two to heat and beat it.

How would you do it Daron?

F-it... it's not my car! Heat it and beat it!

[CentralWAbaja]

You know better then to ask ......

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[CentralWAbaja]

Most times I have seen it where a 1/2 circle relief is made and a piece of formed ad welded back in. large diameter pipe might work too.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

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Sorry about the previous post as I didn't notice the "dimple" at that time. This is not a good way to fix something that is supporting several different things/functions at once. You have stretched the metal in 2 directions (dimpled hence changed the bend of the mount), changed it's shape.

I went out and looked and felt my stock trans mount and it does go from a full arc to a more flattened out area "softly" with matching bends to the sides to the join seam bend and flange.

Maybe (an opinion), at the area where the arc starts to flatten out you could trim, then replace the flattened out area with something identical (as possible) but sitting lower (using the area below the bends to connect to). You won't have much room to play with either. I am not sure if there is a minimum height of the bend to the reverse bend for the seam. Never got into that argument/discussion before for a couple of reasons mainly I was working with AL not steel but checking my "back info" there are off-sets around bends that has to be dealt with when bending around radiuses. Cutting and welding above the OMLs (Outside Mold Line; e.g. the start of the outside bend radius off the straight area of stock. IML is the Inside Mold Line when working on the inside of a bent piece of stock) might allow a closer fit.

I would double up weld at the seams then maybe add a flat stock doubler (or one with flanges for additional strength) on the underside for more support.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

... on the other hand you could have raised the engine and trans up a bit before the heavy work tools took over

Lee

[Leatherneck]

I’ll see what kind of clearance I need tomorrow, drive flange should be in.

End result how much clearance do I need?

[Leatherneck]

So the drive flanges came in. I dry fitted them and the flange slid on, felt slight resistance and I do mean slight.

How much clearance do I want to end up with?

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[Leatherneck]

With CV installed this is the gap. What do you think, more?

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

A good question!

I went out and looked at my bus into bug setup and, since the drive flanges are toward the inside of the trans mount tubes, the distance between the flanges and the tubes are a bit more than the thickness of my fingers (this will vary per person). Then you have to look at the thickness of the CV joints and where the boots clamp considering any possibility of the trans mounts flexing/twisting if they are not well supported.

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You look pretty close in one area but since I have only the pix and not sure of the relationship potential of the exact movement relationship direction so it is hard to tell if the narrow gap is a potential problem.

The boots will wear if there is any potential contact with the trans mount also so that has to be taken into consideration. I don't think the half-shafts will be a problem but its worth a look.

For what it is worth Leather this seems to be the best I can do (I will look at it again later just to be sure... sometimes that does help).

Lee

[Leatherneck]

With CV and boot.

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