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As you would know a Quaife weighs a ton, so that got some 'treatment' too I drilled the clutch shaft and arm, and used the plastic throwout sleeve, took a bit out of the bowden guide etc.

The final result is I couldn't get the 5 speed down to the 4 speed weight but I got close, 5.7 higher
But it is a 5 speed with Quaife and bus output splines. I've got a ZF LSD, which is lighter, but I worry a bit about it breaking in a car heavier then a beetle.

Not bad at all.

H2OSB

Ian Godfrey wrote: ↑Mon Apr 19, 2021 11:01 pm I drilled the clutch shaft and arm,

How long is the lever arm (center to center)?

Drilled cross shaft:
By my eye, you drilled it 3/8". My calculation says you've reduced the strength by only 5%. However, it is still 2.3 times stronger than the early 16mm shaft.
If you drilled it ½", its strength would be reduced by only 16%. And it would be a hair over double the strength of the early 16mm shaft (that never breaks).

Bruce, the lever arm is 70mm centre to centre, and the minimum diameter of the clutch shaft is 19mm (where the circlips are).
I had drilled it to 10mm (3/8") but after thinking about what you said and looking at my graph, I drilled it out to 12mm
Probably still conservative with a stage 2 Kennedy which is not that heavy.

I've been working steadily on the Ghia
cut open the pan for new fuel lines and to take some weight out and put in harness mounts while I was in there I got the Mendeola front end lined up, but it took a lot of work as my frame head was not in line with the centre of the pan Welded in with some extra bracing

on to the front suspension:
arms in shocks, hubs (944) and disks (early 911) steering rack, Golf 1 with a Quaife quick steer kit, also available in LHD how it all looks I was able to get 6 deg caster, and 0 - 4 neg camber as needed. I've gone for a 'crack' of toe in at this stage.

these are the parts to support the spring plates (Elephant racing poly bronze bushes): I've used uniballs (I think they are Rebel racing) on the trailing arms and cut down the pivot bolt to fit Torsion cover made out of 944 ends

Rear arm first fit With a disk, also early 911, with a few holes sway bar on, (rebel racing, 'cut and shut' to suit VW) and the caliper (UK wilwood for Ford Escort)

Hey Ian,
What did the new front suspension setup weigh compared to the old one?

out to the spindles, and including steering box/rack, the new suspension was 8Kg lighter but I welded in about 3 Kg of reinforcement so say 5 Kg lighter. The new spindles and front brakes are 1 Kg lighter too.

Foam Ford racing yellow foam bump stops, much better than rubber. Lighter too

The fronts are made for struts but I found they work great on my square on place of the stock bumps.
YMMV with the Mendeola setup, but I strongly recommend the foam bumps regardless, all OEMs use them now.

(The red foam on the stock mustangs rears is good if you just want to junkyard pick)

Day and night difference vs stock rubber bumps or Bus bumps, very progressive.

Have to glue them on the alloy rear arms, Duro Plastic Welder has held up for years now.

Yep, I went for the mustang yellow bumpstops on the rear to replace those cut down stockers and when I sort the shocks on the fron I will do the same.