Cheap ebay intercoolers (Now just my tuning thread)

[buguy]

Yeah you get some cooling with drawthrough. Not so much on a blowthrough.

[Coyotemutt]

I have a single nozzle set up for my cooling needs. I placed it in the crotch of the Y of my intake plumbing. It points pretty much straight at the incoming charge. I expect this will create the best atomization and cooling by taking advantage of the counter-current.

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[buguy]

Have you tried it yet?

[Coyotemutt]

I haven't. I'm waiting on two stupid adapters to go from 1/2 npt on the pump to 1/4 push to connect. I'm beginning to wish I'd just put up the cash for one of the devils own pumps.

This nozzle came with a check valve but I think my boost overwhelms it. I went for a drive with the nozzle in there but no hose and it definitely has a boost leak.

I'll see how it goes once I finally have it all mounted but I think I'll end up having to add a flow solenoid like Clonebug described.

[Coyotemutt]

I got it all set up and tested the function with my air compressor. It sprays a very fine mist and kicks on at 5 to 6 psi. I've tested it in the work parking lot (I work at a fish hatchery and I have weekend duty) and it seems to work exactly as planned.

I'll try to get a freeway test done tomorrow evening and report back!

[buguy]

That's awesome! Say goodbye to that 8-10 psi limit you had!

[Clonebug]

I got it all set up and tested the function with my air compressor. It sprays a very fine mist and kicks on at 5 to 6 psi. I've tested it in the work parking lot (I work at a fish hatchery and I have weekend duty) and it seems to work exactly as planned.

I'll try to get a freeway test done tomorrow evening and report back!

Have you tested the flow to see how much fluid you get per minute???
Let the nozzle pump into a bucket for a timed amount on a clock....say like thirty seconds.
You can then compute how many ml/min you are getting before boost pushback.

[Coyotemutt]

I got it all set up and tested the function with my air compressor. It sprays a very fine mist and kicks on at 5 to 6 psi. I've tested it in the work parking lot (I work at a fish hatchery and I have weekend duty) and it seems to work exactly as planned.

I'll try to get a freeway test done tomorrow evening and report back!

Have you tested the flow to see how much fluid you get per minute???
Let the nozzle pump into a bucket for a timed amount on a clock....say like thirty seconds.
You can then compute how many ml/min you are getting before boost pushback.

I havent. Its rated at 250ml/min, but I should definitely test it to be sure. What would I do with that information though? I'm not running a very sophisticated system and I'm not chasing horsepower. I just want to get it running smoothly and push around 10psi safely. Maybe hold 6psi continuously to deal with the long mountaintain hills here.

[Clonebug]

Once you find out how much Water/Alcohol mix you are pumping you can use the calculator to see how much hp that will support. You then figure out how much hp you should be making with the engine size/rpm/boost level you are currently running.
You can then compute whether you are using too much or too little W/I for your engine.
Without the tools to see the difference it's not as easy.....but if you guess and don't do the math you can still blow your engine to kingdom come.
With F/I you have a lot of info available to you like IAT's and actual ignition advance plus it can all be logged to check it out on a computer screen.
With a carb and distributor you have no idea what your advance is at a given rpm/boost level so you MUST stay on the safe side.
You will have to sacrifice some hp to save your engine.

As for the nozzles.....my nozzles from "Devils Own" put out almost double what they said they would.......I emailed them and they said their nozzles are tested at 200 psi and if you are lower they will flow more.
I used a pump at 120 psi but it also had a pressure cut off switch so it would always cycle on and off between 40 and 120 lbs.

My new pump is rated to 300 psi and it has an internal bypass so it never shuts off until the Hobbes turns it off.

The reason I run two nozzles is because one big one puts out too much water at lower boost and mid rpms. For EX.....when I'm going down the freeway at 60-65 mph up a 6% grade and need to get past a truck....it bumps me to 3-6 lbs boost and the WI kicks on while holding that 6 lbs. boost....the nozzle is design to support the full boost amount and when at mid range it will make the engine blubber and cough from too much water....turn off the water and it immediately starts to ping!!!!! Now I'm screwed...

[Coyotemutt]

That's some excellent information.

According to the charts I've seen, 250cc/min is recommended for applications that hit 150hp at 10 to 15 psi.
I suspect, via butt dyno, that I make around 120hp at 10 psi. So assuming I'm actually getting near 250cc/min I should honestly be getting more than I need. Still have to measure that.

What I DO know is that pulling through 2nd gear at wide open throttle the engine doesnt bog at all when the water kicks on. This may mean that I'm getting way less water than I think I am. It may also mean that 250ml/min is a good compromise that works "good enough" from 5psi up to 10psi.

According to other posts I've read, i should be safe with 26 to 28 degrees max timing advance up to 5psi at which point I either need timing retard or water-meth injection to suppress detonation.

Ideally I want to be able to run my svda at 26-28 degrees max advance and no more than 10psi boost. My goal is to keep it all simple and mechanically controlled. Does that sound safe at all? Should I just run less pressure?

Anyway, I'll get the measurement on the nozzle this week sometime for sure. Possibly even later tonight depending on family needs.

(EDIT: Holy cow, if I'm legitimately getting 4gph I should be drowning this poor engine, no? 250ml/min is 4gph)

[Coyotemutt]

Seems like the water injection worked fine, but the new rings just aren't going to seal in cylinder 2. The pressure was strong enough to push my valve cover enough to piss oil everywhere!

The engine was definitely down on power with the water on vs off, but not a ping in sight and it ran quite smoothly. Head temps were WAY down too. Driving 75 on a grade it came up to 300 degrees. Wild! It felt like I had a boost leak... which I guess I did considering I still don't have good ring seal in #2. I wish I hadn't made two separate threads now... I should have done one single chronicling of my adventure.

[Coyotemutt]

If anyone was still curious, the aem 250cc nozzle does indeed put out 250cc per minute with my pump.

[Coyotemutt]

Wow, the 250ml/min nozzle shoots my 12.5 afr down to 10.5 as soon as it comes on.

Gotta switch it for a 125ml/min nozzle from somewhere.

[buguy]

Are you spraying straight water?

[Coyotemutt]

Are you spraying straight water?

Oh! No, I used -20F window washer fluid from napa. I looked up the MSDS sheet and it should be about 30/70 methanol to water. Should I try a weaker mix maybe?

School me! The car probably still needs new pistons and cylinders but it's running acceptably as-is. No smoke and the oil is staying in the case. But I really don't know how to tune around the water-meth so I've got everything set up VERY conservatively. I learned my lesson.