REAR suspension un even

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I bought some new inner rubber bushes. These have a hole of 45mm. My aftermarket standard style spring plates have a 43mm tube welded to the spring plate that fits into the inner rubber bush.
So looks like the aftermarket spring plates have been made wrong. This 2mm difference is causing the spring plate to move around. I gunna have to tig weld a sleeve on to the S plate to fill the gap making it a good fit.

[Piledriver]

I'm glad you found it.

For the inner bush, the split plack urethane bushings work well as they can be lubed up and actually spin, and they are reasonably hard.
They are also incredibly easy to install.

The outer bushings are worth some discussion--- The hard black urethanes work, but may actually take a bit of use before they self clearance to the point the spring plate can actually spin in them... Urethane doesnt work in shear. period.
I polished my springplates where they contact the bushing... no play now, and free movement up/down. (if installed w/o a spring of course)

The stock soft rubber bushings are supposed to work in shear, and they do for a long time.
I think the outers were originally bonded onto the springplates, at least the 944 ones I have the bushings had to be burnt off.

I still suggest stock outer bushings unless you want to go autocrossing or such.

There are also true hard bushing options, but those are usually reserved for serious ax/road racing and the folks with really sturdy fillings in their teeth.

[Piledriver]

Note: The spring plates/bushings come in 2 sizes.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Yes ,I noticed that when I ordered the bushes. I got the inner bushes with the 45mm centre hole. The outer bushes measure out at 48mm. The 45mm inners wiggle around on the spring plate . Going to Tig weld some 2mm wall stainless tube over the tube to correct it.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Right. I've had the spring plate sleeved were the inner bush fits. The inner bush fits nice now. no play. Fitted the torsion bar in the chassis ,and the spring plate, the play is still there. Its clear now that the FIT between the inner spline on the chassis and the sway away bar isn't good, Its only a bit, BUT with the length of the spring plate the play is a lot were the swing axle fits.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Right, I've fitted some standard rear torsion bars and spring plates. I have had to pre load the left hand bar more than the right hand torsion bar ,and yet I'm still 1/2 inch lower on the side with more pre load added. Why is this.
So..... floor to wing edge on left hand is 26.5 inch (more pre load added to bar to try and equalise heights)
And.… floor to wing edge on right hand side is 27 inch.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Right, I've fitted some standard rear torsion bars and spring plates. I have had to pre load the left hand bar more than the right hand torsion bar ,and yet I'm still 1/2 inch lower on the side with more pre load added. Why is this.
So..... floor to wing edge on left hand is 26.5 inch (more pre load added to bar to try and equalise heights)
And.… floor to wing edge on right hand side is 27 inch.

I may have miss-understood what you are saying: have you jacked up the car and leveled it out?

Going back to basics: the pan and the torsion tube should be level with each other when the wheels are off the ground. I'd level the pan first and from under the car as it is easier to use a bubble level on that way but then there is the gravity style of level too. Not sure what the term "wing edge" is in this case. I know what we call "fenders" are also called "wings" in other places but in this case I am not sure of the term "wings". I've worked with quite a few English, Australian, New Zelanders, South Africans and other European countries so I know ("knew" is a better term as it has been quite a few years now since I worked with them plus I am getting old) some terms needed during conversations.

I have seen both twisted pans and tube buggies that looked good but when measuring them out technically they were catawampus/cattywampus (the latter term is more of a slang version of the former).

pan and torsion tube support 03 (2).jpg

Pan and torsion tube support 02 (2) - Copy.jpg

If you haven't done it already, double check the condition of the two end end support brackets for the torsion tube. They are known to break so they need to be watched even if you aren't abusing them.

I hope this helps. Lee

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

yes I'm referring to wings as being fenders. I might try 1 more try at it, but this time try and adjust the opposite side. maybe 1 inner spline to try get it equal.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

https://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopi ... ng+preload

Garrick, I know this is basic and redundant but this is something I posted many years ago when I was having problems setting preload when off-roading a glass buggy with IRS suspension. It is very basic and applies to both Swing and K&L with double or single spring plate rear suspension adjusting so I am posting it just as a "for what it is worth" post.

Lee

[Piledriver]

Dont use fender as any sort of reference--- they tend to differ slightly after 45 years or so.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Hi guys, My main aim this summer is to get my bug to ride straight at speed.
The rear , now that it has standard spring plates, rear torsion bars and new caps and rubbers is running better, but still has a tendency to not drive straight at the rear. I'm thinking its the 70 wall profile tyres wobbling around. I have to use these as the type 4 header curves underneath the engine and is a bit close to the ground. The 205 70 15's fix this.
A plan of mine could consist of 7 x 17 BRMS on the rear so I can put lower profile tyres on and still have the same overall diameter. Plus in thinking of putting more TOE IN into the rear to keep it straight.
Plus any side wind this bug encounters it wants to switch lanes for fun

[Piledriver]

What air pressures are you running?
With the stock wheels/tires should be ~ 18 psi front, 28 rear, or the car will want to swap ends.
That's ~factory spec, should be a sticker on the car somewhere, inside of glovebox door iirc.

[Bruce.m]

Is the shell level (take a reading from the flat area on the tunnel)?

If you have a slight nose down rake, where shell is higher at the back, you need to fix the steering caster.

To state the obvious every degree of rake, is one degree less steering caster.

Use shims behind the lower beam mounts to lean it.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I'll check the pressures ,18 front,28 rear
I have the bug sitting level.
I have 1 set of caster shims fitted.
3/4 bar on the front.
My thoughts are tyre pressures

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Is the shell level (take a reading from the flat area on the tunnel)?

If you have a slight nose down rake, where shell is higher at the back, you need to fix the steering caster.

To state the obvious every degree of rake, is one degree less steering caster.

Use shims behind the lower beam mounts to lean it.

To add to what Bruce said I would also check the pan (shell") for twist as it doesn't take much to get them out of line and is especially easy to do for those of us that use glass bodies and abuse things off-road.

I measure in ~ three places: in the rear it is at the torsion tube (and the rear corners of the pan and in the front the front corners of the pan and at the beam mounting point (you can use the beam I think) to see if there is any twist. Also check to see if the frame head at the beam end of the mount and the mount to the pan at the Napoleon's head is level.

I was talking to a Junk yard dealer who specialized in VWs and he also told me to check the pan at the tunnel for sag. He said that the problem is especially bad with glass buggy cars and the steel body isn't there to support the pan like the steel body would do but playing "bumper cars" (accident) on the street can affect things also. The sag area is from the shifter hole to the Napoleon's head.

Sounds basic but often forgotten about.

Lee

Update: I do not jack anywhere on the front beam's frame head but behind the Napoleon's hat. As a secondary safety thing I also bought a second floor jack with a specific floor jack beam ( that has an additional lift beam with adjustable ends on it so I don't lift on the front beam's frame head (https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-flo ... 60762.html). It does allow me to jack from the front of the pan or behind the Napoleon's hat. It is also good for the rear too.

Lee

Lee