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ajdenette wrote: ↑Tue Apr 11, 2017 6:27 pm You do some amazing metal work 56SemaRag!!!

Thanks AJ!

petew wrote: ↑Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:21 am I'd only say, watch out that you don't over-engineering it.

Probably still going to happen Pete! That's why STF is my sounding board.

Don't know whats up with picture links from PhotoBucket Probably something simple I am missing. Brought all the pictures down to 600 x 480 and still get the big red you're-doing-it-all-wrong warning. Someone kick me in the right direction it would be appreciated.

Found out that the (Dansk) floor pans won't be available from CIP1 until June, so I decided to strip the frame and convertible top assembly this weekend. Used a slick attachment to my pressure washer that drew in glass media. Not that warping would be a factor with what I was stripping, but the water kept the operation cool and pretty dust free. Over the next several weeks I will be making room for the 5 speed and bracing up then cutting clear the torsion housing blocking the tunnel for the prop shaft.

You can upload pics direct to STF. Go to the attachment tab down the bottom of "full editor and preview". Then, "Add files" and "place in line"...

The upload per post limit is 10 pics now BTW, used to be 3. File size limit went up some as well.
The PB and tapatalk integration is still a work in progress, I still don't entirely grok why there is an offsite link filesize limit.
(Historical reasons, i guess)

You can post links, just not have the img tags for showing inline.

Thanks for the great info gents

Stripped the chassis with an inexpensive media blast attachment for my pressure washer. Let is flash rust and primered it.



Visited the local auto dismantler and picked up a 5 speed out of an 05' WRX for $200. Tore it down to clean it and removed all the internals to make it light enough for fitment into the chassis. All of the gears will be replaced with either M Factory, Albins or PPG along with the differentials so the sludge and broken gears didn't matter much.



Fabbed up some bracing so I could cut the torsion housing without it moving. Worked well since there was no pinching of the saw blade when I cut through. Going to fab the over brace next before I do anymore material removal.

I love builds like this!

56SemaRag wrote: ↑Sun May 21, 2017 7:43 pm Fabbed up some bracing so I could cut the torsion housing without it moving. Worked well since there was no pinching of the saw blade when I cut through. Going to fab the over brace next before I do anymore material removal.

Ghetto kafer bar kit!

My interim is always ghetto. Good thing is there's minimal adjustment needed

Sent from my dont need no model number using Tapatalk

Man this is pretty cool. Keep the pics coming

Stabilized the torsion housing before I close out this area. Partially closed out the right side pickle fork torsion housing and picked up a Ver9 STi driveshaft. Started the mock up and it looks like I will trim and redo the mid bearing mount to allow it to set further in the tunnel. Shooting for no more than 2 degrees deflection between the transmission output and driveshaft. I'll keep the transmission / engine angle and front differential angle identical. I will have to shorten the front drive shaft but not by much.

Started fabricating the tunnel channels. These channels will provided the strength since the original tunnel base was removed. Going to add in driveshaft hoops later which should brace these together well. I am also going to utilize them to run my fuel, A/C and Intercooler lines.

Some great work there brother
Wish my ole eyes n unsteady hands could weld lol

Out standing sir!!!

Finished out the channels and starting to box out the transmission area. With the mock up, the driveline should not have an operating angle greater than 2 degrees. When I manufacture the mounts, I want to be able to adjust or shim each section. I am sure driving forces and power will flex a bit.

After several hours of shimming, stacking, mock ups and measuring I got the right drive line angle combination. The engine and front differential are perfectly parallel in orientation and the drive shafts are within 1.5 degrees. The front differential will sit a few inches below the wheel spindle center line but well inside the CV limit.

Made the transmission mount by cutting and notching the original 4 bolt one. Used 1-3/8" x 1" chromoly for the bushing retainers and 1" chromoly for the cross brace. Universal polyurethane bushings are from energy suspension. Seems super solid. Next comes the mid bearing support and front differential mount to lock down the drive train

Driveshaft is in. Cool thing is I won't have to alter the driveshaft at all. The differential axle center point ends up only about 12mm aft offset of the front spin]dle lateral axis. Well within CV allowable deflection. The differential cover isn't a simple flip and go even though the bolt pattern will allow it. The temp switch interferes with the differential ring gear, so I can either cut and weld or just relocate the vent and drain ports. I will end up doing the latter.

Finished off the forward differential mount. The front suspension is up next. Trying to find out what a good SAI (steering axis inclination) would be for this build along with the camber rate. Most of the other dimensions I have a rough estimate for but these two are proving evasive. The SAI for the knuckle was based on a McPherson but it's hard to calculate or find. Appreciate any insight.