Re: First Start Up Success!! June 27, 2015
Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 2:06 am
Actually, that article precisely describes what happens if the bearing<>case and case thrust is jacked up, as repeatedly noted earlier, just in a much longer and far, far more entertaining format. 
Dangerously assuming the case still has proper bearing crush, modding a "thrust cut" bearing to fit would save a case thrust cut, but usually the thrust being dorked strongly indicates the case<>bearing crush also went away long ago, or the bearing couldn't have moved// beat up the case thrust to begin with.
Some folks install a steel shim on a std bearing in lieu of a thrust cut shell.
(sometimes thrust cut bearing sets are harder to come by, and can be more expensive)
You can set up your endplay shims (and check for bearing/case thrust movement) with the case on the halfshell, with the flywheel on.
Its really the safest way, and can be enlightening.
(remove the dist drive, first out, last part into the case, after the flywheel goes on. Protects the brass drive gear from terminal dorkage)
You are almost certainly in need of an align bore and thrust cut, and a new set of mains to match.
You needed it the first time, and it sadly wouldn't have lasted very long even if the thrust hadn't seized.
Buy the mains, give them to the machinist and then the machinist will cut the case to match those bearings
Seriously.
The bearings OD varies enough to matter.
(always has been that way, for anyone that builds engines vs just assembles engines, anyway)
Sometimes, new replacement bearings are large enough on the OD to NOT require an align bore.
(the new Mahle bearings are typically a tiny bit bigger OD than they used to be, possibly for this reason, or perhaps just crap QA)
You are still better off starting again with round holes in the case.
Also: check the thrust surface on the crank, must also be perfect/flat.
Dangerously assuming the case still has proper bearing crush, modding a "thrust cut" bearing to fit would save a case thrust cut, but usually the thrust being dorked strongly indicates the case<>bearing crush also went away long ago, or the bearing couldn't have moved// beat up the case thrust to begin with.
Some folks install a steel shim on a std bearing in lieu of a thrust cut shell.
(sometimes thrust cut bearing sets are harder to come by, and can be more expensive)
You can set up your endplay shims (and check for bearing/case thrust movement) with the case on the halfshell, with the flywheel on.
Its really the safest way, and can be enlightening.
(remove the dist drive, first out, last part into the case, after the flywheel goes on. Protects the brass drive gear from terminal dorkage)
You are almost certainly in need of an align bore and thrust cut, and a new set of mains to match.
You needed it the first time, and it sadly wouldn't have lasted very long even if the thrust hadn't seized.
Buy the mains, give them to the machinist and then the machinist will cut the case to match those bearings
Seriously.
The bearings OD varies enough to matter.
(always has been that way, for anyone that builds engines vs just assembles engines, anyway)
Sometimes, new replacement bearings are large enough on the OD to NOT require an align bore.
(the new Mahle bearings are typically a tiny bit bigger OD than they used to be, possibly for this reason, or perhaps just crap QA)
You are still better off starting again with round holes in the case.
Also: check the thrust surface on the crank, must also be perfect/flat.
