So, next up is search for the intake manifolds and the pulley on the SC...
I want to use the same type like on the scat serpentine. So with a 5 rib belt. The AMR only has 4 grooves.
Maybe to save cost I'll try running the amr with the Original pulley and just get a 4 rib belt to get the stuff rolling!
when testing the setup and finding the ideal SC pulley size I'll have one custom made with a 5 rib pattern.
Got me some 1600 dp inlet manifolds today, removed the dellorto's and gas linkage, fuel lines and throttle cable, Sparkplug wires and coil.
Then i mounted the manifolds. Now i can measure the distance between them and get a piece of metal tube.
Now for the questions:
1. How much clearence should the pipe have between the manifolds? Or just get it clamped between the manifolds? I gues when the engine gets hot it expands in some way?
2. Whats the best diameter of pipe? How thick does it need to be?
3. Where can i get those flashy blue silicone couplings the cheapest?
1. I would leave a quarter inch of clearance between each end of your center manifold tube. That's plenty of room for expansion/contraction, you don't want too much unsupported silicone boots. Slide the silicone boots and clamps onto the manifold first, then put the manifold in place. Then you can slide/coax the boots over the DP end manifolds.
2. In order to match stock DP intake manifolds, you need 1-5/8" tube, or about 41mm metric. You can use 0.0625" or 0.090" wall tubing. Do you prefer to work in aluminum or steel?
Got some metal tube with the same inner diameter as the dp manifolds.
But before i proceed, can steel rust at the inside if left bare metal?
Dont think i can pait it on the inside. Besides, the fuel will disolve it? Wont it?
Aluminium wont have any rust problems....
As for the rubber hoses to connect the pipe with the manifolds. Think i will use the stock ones. Cheap and good availability.
I blew them out a couple times and they are a PITA to replace when the engine is in my buggy.
I bought some 5 ply connectors that worked great and never worried about it again.
If you get a tube that is the same size as the outside of the endpieces you can get some 4-5 ply straight connectors that should hold up.
If they are too thin they will roll into the hose clamp, pinch up and cause a leak. BTDT.....
Stripped66 wrote:The point wasn't to argue air temps with the current world record holder, but to dispel the claim that the K03 is wrapped up at 150 HP. It's not.
I used steel tubing since it is easier for me to weld.
I just sprayed some paint down each end to get a little protection and haven't had an issue carbed or EFI.
Stock intakes are steel so home built should be fine also.
Stripped66 wrote:The point wasn't to argue air temps with the current world record holder, but to dispel the claim that the K03 is wrapped up at 150 HP. It's not.
So, i made the bracket for the centre tube. Looking to order some silicone rubber pieces to connect the centre tube with the manifolds. Found some 3 layer reenforced tubing on this site:
Here is how I did my brace. I made it removable to make it easier to get the intake out of the engine compartment. I just used a clamp to hold it in place.
Mine is in a buggy so it's a little harder to work on the engine with the body on.
Stripped66 wrote:The point wasn't to argue air temps with the current world record holder, but to dispel the claim that the K03 is wrapped up at 150 HP. It's not.
rubenski wrote:Thats not a bad idea, but if you just disconnect the silicone couplers and loosen the manifolds iit comes off easy to?
And do you also have an amr mounted?
If you can get it by the distributor....The bracket could hang up on it plus you have to be able to slide it off the bolt before lifting.
I made the tube short enough to lift straight up without pulling the intake ends off. YMMV
Stripped66 wrote:The point wasn't to argue air temps with the current world record holder, but to dispel the claim that the K03 is wrapped up at 150 HP. It's not.
