Worth a rebuild?

[Marc]

Looks like Norris' smallest grind, the 329S. It's very mild, just a baby step up from a stocker - a very sensible choice for a stock/near-stock Type III, but would also be fine in a lighter car. The narrower (107°) lobe separation angle theoretically causes a higher torque peak (at a lower RPM) than the same lift & duration would give at the stock 108°, but it's not going to something you'd be likely to feel - it's only 1 degree, after all. Its main claim to fame is that the ramps are gentle enough to allow ratio rockers (up to 1.4:1) if you upgrade the springs/pushrods, so it has a wide range of potential uses - for example, with a set of 1.25:1 rockers this cam would compare to a Bugpack 4061 using 1.1:1s. There are many better choices IMO for a high-performance application, but this one is fine for a mild motor with an all-stock valvetrain.

"#329S - THE "BUS CAM", MILD STREET CAM, OFF ROAD CAM - This cam was originally designed for bus engines, way back in the day. It helped moved heavy cars with low displacement engines. The super torque proved great for mild performance engines on standard VW's as well, and is also well suited for heavy off-road cars with smaller motors. We've found that this is a great cam for small displacement engines: 1641cc, 1679cc, 1776cc, etc., with mostly stock components. It's not hard on valvetrain components and can It pulls hard and still idles very smoothly, even down at 800-900 RPM's. You might compare it to an Engle 100 cam. Unlike the 100, it can be used with stock (1.1) ratio rockers, or it be used with 1.25 or even 1.4 ratio rockers. Using larger rockers will allow you extend your powerband, add horsepower, and allow you to fine tune your engine dynamics without having to split the case and change your cam again if you decide to give it a little extra zing later. With the right combo, these will run well up to about 6200 RPM's. Will work great with standard valve springs for stock rockers. Recommend HD single springs for 1.25 or 1.4 rockers. Very easy on lifter bores. This cam is a great choice for an engine built for longevity.

ADV DURATION -- DURATION AT .050" -- CAM LIFT -- VALVE LIFT 1.1 -- VALVE LIFT 1.25 -- VALVE LIFT 1.4
         272 degrees ------ 232 degrees --- .329" ---------- .362" ------------ .411" ------------ .461" ...."

[Piledriver]

You can ship a T4 case cross country both ways via USPS, insured for ~$80 total (take the head studs out)
T1 case weighs a little less even... and send it to someone who knows what they are actually doing.

Your local guy has competition, he just doesn't realize it.

[crvc]

I found this for 1971: Jul 31 211 2 300 000 AE 0 529 815 "Last of the 1600cc busses in the U.S.".

Thanks for all the help. Dad said the engine came out of a bus so the camshaft might be original. Was the AE block used in buses? But the converted type-3 I've been using for two years also has an after-market cam. I've long wondered if that's the reason for all the problems, especially the overheating that occurs above 50 degrees as well as the oil leak. I'd like to get back to as stock as possible.

Bad news for me: One daughter didn't get into vet school and the other may not get into graduate school, meaning I'm not getting my Subaru back. The 18yr old bug will remain my daily driver for another year at least. ****

kevin

[Marc]

`71 buses did receive a block stamped "AE" - the casting differed from that of the "Bug" AE in that it had the three bosses needed for the rear engine mounting bracket, while most Bug engines did not...but everything else (including the alloy) was identical.

The "A" designations for various Type I engine configurations debuted for the `71 model year. Worldwide the offerings were: AB=44 DIN HP DP1300, AC=40 DIN HP SP1300, AD=50 DIN HP (65 SAE HP)DP1600, AF= 46 DIN HP SP1600; the AE DP1600 with US-spec emissions was rated at 60 SAE HP.
The "D" engine was essentially the same as the US market received towards the end of `65 (the last year we got it) - 34 DIN HP (40 SAE HP)1200.
Other "A" engines came along in later years. There was often some ambiguity in the US HP ratings - distinctions between the low-compression dished-piston motors and the ones with flat-top pistons were typically overlooked in the publicly-released information - but that was the only difference, worth about 2 HP in truth...all the engines used the same camshaft specs.

Type IIIs had their own independent numbering system, with the codeletter indicating whether carb'ed or injected and the C.R. - configurations spanned several significant changes in the engine case so the codeletters alone don't always serve to positively identify a Type III case, for that you must have the serial number too...but other than the dipstick/oil filler tube arrangement and the three-point bosses needed for IRS Type III applications, a (4-speed) Type III case is essentially the same as a Type I of the same vintage.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Marc, wasn't there some kind of difference in the front of the engine (flywheel) in the oiling area at the top of the block? Close to 10 years ago I did a type 3 pancake to up-rite conversion. If I remember correctly had to drill out a hole in order to use an up-rite oil casting (I don't remember what it is called right now) in order to make the up-rite shroud to fit and get some oil cooling done... as I remember. Other than the oil routing solution and the dipstick thing it was as you said.



You can barely see the oil lines here that go into the oil cooler I added.

[Marc]

Yes, all type IIIs use m6 hardware to affix the cooler - last used on singleport Type I (1970 in the US). The "universal" cases like your Mexican one come ready for m8 but with no cooler stud - the accompanying hardware kit comes with one m8 stud for doghouse cooler, one m6xm8 step stud for singleport, and one long m6/m8 for the Type III cooler, as well as a couple of bushings to reduce the m8 "ear-holes" to m6 for the singleport or Type III cooler.
Type IIIs also have their oil pressure warning light sender threaded into a boss on the cooler so the sender boss on a Type III-only case isn't drilled/tapped.
Type III DP cylinder heads also usually have some extra "flying-buttress" gussets cast in near the sparkplugs which need to be nibbled away to clear stock Type I DP overcylinder tin.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Thanks for the extra knowledge, that will come in handy.

Lee

[crvc]

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... 786383.jpg

[crvc]

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... 16517e.jpg

[crvc]

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... b50593.jpg

[crvc]

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... 061389.jpg

[crvc]

Not sure what the photos will show. I measured flywheel end play at .008. I read that's well within norms so it led me to split the case. The camshaft bearings have STD stamped on them. The rod bearings have 075 stamped on them. The two-part crankshaft bearing has 025 stamped on. I can't find any numbers on the first or fourth bearing. I haven't removed the one still trapped on the crankshaft. Can I assume that all 4 crankshaft bearings are 025? Do I order a crank bearing kit that says 025?

TIA,

kevin

[Piledriver]

How do the bearings look?
If they look good, you should strongly consider reusing them.
(unless you are having the case cut)

I have gotten to the point I keep old but good bearing sets and lifters...
It's not that I am a hoarder, new parts just tends to fit worse these days.

If the only issue was oil leakage we can probably assist you in fixing that.

[crvc]

No, the oil leakage is more of an annoyance. The real problems include over-heating in 50 degree weather. With the crankcase full while idling the green idiot light comes on once the car has been driven 20 minutes or more. I use 10w30 and a newish oil pump much heavier than stock. That to me suggests the car is getting too hot. Plus mileage ranges from 17MPG up to 22 in city driving.

I think the root problem is the 'racing cam' that was put into the type-3 that had been converted into a type-1 engine.

The bearings all show long scratches as if the oil screen had holes. That's a guess as I threw the strainer out months ago.

kevin

[crvc]

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... e7b762.jpg

So while steaming the replacement case halves I found this patch. Is it safe? If not, any suggestions to make it safe?

TIA

kevin