why my 69 its overhating?

[Marc]

1969 was the last year that had a green oil pressure light

1968

69 was the first year of the new speedo with red warning lights and lables.
68 was a one year only speedo with the old style face and green oil light but internal fuel gauge.

I own an early `69, bought in the fall of `68. Green oil pressure light and no tenths. Also had the "1968" hazard flasher system and 3-switch master cylinder. I'm not at home this week, but I can provide the VIN and production date when I return. (Yes, it's 119xxxxxx and yes, it's IRS)

[Buggin_74]

I'm not doubting you but have a look at the build date of the speedo on the back.

VW were notorious for using up left over stock from earlier models.
Every other 69 around has the later style speedo, even one of mine which was aussie built (slower than german assembly) had a 2/69 speedo in the late style.

It also shows the late style in the August 68 owners manual with 2x red warning lights

[Marc]

I'm aware of the speedo build date markings, but the original speedo was replaced with a later-style many years ago in order to get the tenth-mile odo and I'm not sure I could pick it out of the pile today. This was my first-ever new car and has stayed in the family for the better part of half a million miles, I personally updated the master cylinder, brake-warning-light wiring, and hazard-flasher systems on it from what would normally be expected on a `68 - as you say, "leftover" stock was often used up before incorporating the officially-recognized components in production. Another example would be early-production `63 Beetles which still had non-freshair heat, when supposedly `63-up were all freshair.

Back on topic, as Stray Catalyst said the H5/B5 cases are vastly inferior to anything before or since and should be avoided. Even in the rare case (pun intended) that you have one that's still serviceable, converting it to DP is the kiss of death - don't waste your time or money on it if yours is one of these turds, the ONLY thing it's good for is keeping the rain off any potentially-usable internal parts.
Make the checks that have been mentioned so far, see that the timing is correct, prop the lid open if it isn't a louvered one, and be very gentle if you must drive it. Check the integrity of the freshair hoses all the way from shroud to heat exchangers, if it has a header-type exhaust it's quite common for them to burn through or come loose underneath. Don't run too light of an oil, straight 30 or 10W-40 is the lowest-viscosity I'd use in winter with a worn lower end. Don't keep the clutch pedal depressed any longer than is absolutely necessary (each time you do, it pushes on the thrust bearing) - always go to Neutral when waiting for a traffic light. It takes around 2½ psi to keep the oil pressure light out, so by the time it's on you're very close to zero. Normal idle speed is 875 ±75, fudging it up to 1000 may be enough to keep the light out without attracting too much attention.

[morenosd1]

im in san diego ca. I already find a 1500 single port. so thank you so much for you advise as soon the engine its up I gone to put some pic.