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I'm not sure what the 0-60 time is on this particular vehicle, but say the 0-60 time on the for speed is 18.2 seconds and to simplify, let's say the acceleration is linear. Let's then add 1.4 seconds for the autostick. The four speed would have traveled 802 feet on it's run to 60. At that same point in time, the autostick would be doing about 55.8MPH and would have travelled 746 feet. 4 speed wins by 56 feet.

Bonemaro wrote:I'm not sure what the 0-60 time is on this particular vehicle, but say the 0-60 time on the for speed is 18.2 seconds and to simplify, let's say the acceleration is linear. Let's then add 1.4 seconds for the autostick. The four speed would have traveled 802 feet on it's run to 60. At that same point in time, the autostick would be doing about 55.8MPH and would have travelled 746 feet. 4 speed wins by 56 feet.

WHoas, standard winz teh race of the century!!!!

sb001 wrote:

Bonemaro wrote:I'm not sure what the 0-60 time is on this particular vehicle, but say the 0-60 time on the for speed is 18.2 seconds and to simplify, let's say the acceleration is linear. Let's then add 1.4 seconds for the autostick. The four speed would have traveled 802 feet on it's run to 60. At that same point in time, the autostick would be doing about 55.8MPH and would have travelled 746 feet. 4 speed wins by 56 feet.

WHoas, standard winz teh race of the century!!!!

LOL

sb001 wrote:Fair enough, sorry for the rant-- that's just one of few issues that hit a little close to home with me, I certainyl agree that it does make a difference whether they are properly maintained, but still I just think they get such a bad rap for really no reason-- just don't see that much overall difference between them and any other stock tranny. I will acquiesce that their use of a few extra fiddly bits might make them more susceptible to parts going wrong, but I've had the same control valve and clutch servo for 44 years so I just think that's a non-issue.
If nothing else it has gotten some interest at a few car shows. But even then some of the discussion has drifted toward "how can you stand driving that?" mostly from folks completely not in the know. Maybe I will create another deck lid badge in VW script that says "THE GROSSLY MISUNDERSTOOD" and put it above my "Automatic StickShift" emblem.

Agree with ALL your points on Autostick. Well done. This has been my experience too. Just didn't want to get into a back and forth.

I went back to the original post.. I don't believe the person posting was worried about performance.. Maybe I mis-read. Bottom line FOR ME anyway.. fun to drive and unique.. that's a plus. We too had one growing up and loved it.. never had a problem with it. I wouldn't shy anybody away from one.. After I'm done restoring this one... I'd certainly would have no problem doing another. I'd hate to see them all converted over as I think this was a part of VW history that should be preserved.

Just my nickels worth.. not that anybody wanted to hear it... ha!

sb001 wrote:...Maybe I will create another deck lid badge in VW script that says "THE GROSSLY MISUNDERSTOOD" and put it above my "Automatic StickShift" emblem.

Don't know if you're aware of this forum - they lost their web host for a while but they're back. You could probably market the emblem there...
http://www.vwar.org/


The clutch control units seem to hold up well if they aren't messed with too much. Statistically speaking you've been unusually lucky with the servo, but they can be rebuilt for $20 or so and the kits have always been easy to find. And so long as you don't have a neutral safety switch in the circuit, the car can be driven with no clutch control function while awaiting parts. Have you had to deal with a broken clutch control wire yet? It's a special, extra-flexible grey wire and if you attempt to repair it with conventional primary wire the fix will be short-lived. Better to dismantle the shifter and solder the wire into the switch contact ("dress" and adjust the contact points while you're in there - Bentley manual covers it). Fortunately the wire runs all the way to an inline connnector under the LR seat and only the front half-foot of it really needs to be supple, so every car comes with a couple feet extra - just lengthen it at the rear with conventional wire to make up for what's lost up front.

I know this is an old thread, however, IMHO one MAJOR ADVANTAGE TO THE AUTOSTICK, (besides being great in city driving,) is that you never find the rear mains beat out from clutch chatter; the torque conveters were very easy on the crankcases. I have never owned an autostick, but have worked on many of them and really, find them quite nice.

I'll grant that it's an advantage, but hardly a "MAJOR" one. Stick-shift cars' engine thrust bearings typically last 80K mi plus before restorative machine work is needed, even more if the driver doesn't use the left pedal as a footrest - I've seen cases with 150K+ that had no need of a thrust cut (250K+ if you wish to count 36/40HP with wimpy 180mm clutches). Clutch "chatter" has nearly nothing to do with it...and if you're experiencing that, you should get it fixed
Certainly, if you're in the habit of sitting waiting at a red light with the clutch pedal depressed and in gear you're doing a grave disservice to the thrust bearing. as you're attempting to eject the crankshaft out the back of the engine via your left foot - but if you know how to drive a stick properly there should be no discernible wear in 100-150K mi.

I had a young female customer once who took me on a road-test ride and I was dismayed to see that as soon as she had accelerated up to intended speed she would depress the clutch pedal to "coast" and only release it again when road speed dropped - when driving around town she must've spent at least 30% of the time with the clutch disengaged. Such an idiot should indeed be driving an AutoStick.

True, true Marc. Many cars with knowing drivers, perhaps have some success with keeping wear at a minimum, (wear which may be a result of a poor design to start with.) IMHO, clutch chatter would almost have to affect the bore. If it were just a matter of lateral wear to the thrust, keeping the foot off the pedal may make some difference. However the radial wear is quite severe on many cases; I have seen wear on many cases that cannot be machined. Perhaps it was several times they had been bored, but still, the cost of a case is what I would call a rather major cost, (which would be the major advantage to which I referred in a previous post.)
Anyway one looks at the situation, there is seldom (to NEVER) wear to autostick cases, and almost always wear to the cars with standard transmissions, which can (not saying always does) result in a major cost to the rebuild. If you think that chatter does not affect wear to the bore and thrust and it all comes from people riding the clutch, I'm good with that.
And quite true, 36 and 40 hp motors did not see the problem as much as the later cars. Although the clutches were some smaller than the later bugs, they were sufficient for the HP produced. I worked for a German guy in 69'-'70, and we saw few, if any, cars that needed to be bored, perhaps because the 40 hp cars were just then needing their first rebuild.
Well, since I do not drive a bug, I'll not worry one way or the other about case wear; I have one case sitting in the shop to bore; when I get it done, it will be the last that I do.
As far a finding a clutch pedal operating shaft, which was my first inquiry which and led to this thread and posts, I gave up and welded (what was) the old hook, producing a really nice unit. I am confident it will last as long or longer, than first one. I'm just glad it was simple (guy wanted a new one but after seeing the welded one was quite satisfied.) I am happy it wasn't the cable conduit that had broken loose.... a bit harder situation to correct.