WUE and ASE

[juki48]

ok, I'm not crazy. I don't have that option in my tuner studio. I have the latest released version, downloading the beta version now.

first run basically set all my values to 100% +/- 2% I'll run it a few more times but I think I'm going to end up with warm up enleanment instead of enrichment. is that common or is something way off? maybe my afr targets are just too rich at idle to begin with? I did notice my header starting to glow at all 4 cylinders while idling in the dark at 1200 rpm

[Piledriver]

It depends a lot on where you are taking the CLT measurement, I'm in the hot airstream of cooling air coming around the T4 ex port, very fast response, almost too fast, but it correlates very well with CLT (the delta varies with RPM, cooling airflow speed mostly). I still have it there as it's been a reliable way to keep an eye on everything, but it's probably NOT the ideal spot to take the CLT for warmup purposes.

I have long considered simply trying a sensor bolted to the intake castings at the head (or even in the intake and head flange) as the temperature of the intake port seems to be the first order driver of how much extra fuel you need.
(fuel vapor vs. liquid fuel)

In any case, at ~80F I'm running about 10% enrichment, and ASE is still ~flatlined.
OTOH I'm giving an extra 5% above 260F CLT, and retarding the timing some.
(Cold timing and WUE do not have to stop at 200F or after hitting 100%, just be sure to enable the extended CLT range, it was made for aircooled engines)

My WUE is 100% between 180F and 240F.
I use the cold timing so it slopes across the "normal range" so 180 has 2 degrees more timing than 240.
(more is probably needed, but it's happy)

My idle target RPM also jumps to 1400 at high CLT. (more fan speed, cooler heads for sitting in traffic)

Do a lean best idle test to find what AFR you engine likes at idle, just like doing it with Webers, but without the gymnastics.

You may want to turn on semisequential first so the fuel injection timing is at least consistent.
It works and requires no extra parts/code, other than having the injectors paired properly.

[juki48]

I think having the temp sensor in my oil sump is causing so much delay in temps it's useless for WUE. by the time the oil shows any increase in temps it's too late. I need to figure out where to get a faster responding head/intake temperature.

[Piledriver]

I think having the temp sensor in my oil sump is causing so much delay in temps it's useless for WUE. by the time the oil shows any increase in temps it's too late. I need to figure out where to get a faster responding head/intake temperature.

Try the intake manifold at the head...

[juki48]

thought about that. my intake manifold is steel, so it won't heat up as quick as an aluminum one but will be much faster than the oil. not sure how to get the temp sensor in there. I'm currently using the GM coolant sensor in my oil sump. here is a pic of my intake when I was making it. the injectors aren't mounted yet but they are on the outside down low pointed right at the back of the valves. there is room between the intake runners and the cooling shroud to install a temp sensor right down on the flange.

[MarioVelotta]

Here is a good solution as well.

[juki48]

mario is that an RTD or thermocouple? are the GM coolant temp sensors RTD's? I was wondering if I could just put an RTD under the stud for the intake manifold and feed that into the CLT.

[MarioVelotta]

mario is that an RTD or thermocouple? are the GM coolant temp sensors RTD's? I was wondering if I could just put an RTD under the stud for the intake manifold and feed that into the CLT.

I just take a standard GM sensor and reuse the Thermistor. They are NTC. Resistance drops as temp goes up.

[Piledriver]

You should sell those sensors. (if you don't already)

The sensor setup w/connector can be liberated from a premade GM sensor, but actual work is required.

I personally don't think the GM connector adds much value (just cost) on that sensor, just use heat shrinked sealed M/F connectors, perhaps with some vaseline packed in for good measure.

I'd put it on a manifold to head bolt, but it may not matter much.

[56speedster]

You should sell those sensors. (if you don't already)

The sensor setup w/connector can be liberated from a premade GM sensor, but actual work is required.

I personally don't think the GM connector adds much value (just cost) on that sensor, just use heat shrinked sealed M/F connectors, perhaps with some vaseline packed in for good measure.

x2!

[juki48]

started looking on digikey for a NTC thermistor with specs close the the GM ones. found these http://www.vishay.com/docs/29118/ntcle203.pdf which are about $1 each or less from digikey. these are the closest I found during my lunch break search. only rated for 150C but I bet that's all the GM ones are rated for as well. that's standard automotive max temp for electronics.

[MarioVelotta]

You should sell those sensors. (if you don't already)

The sensor setup w/connector can be liberated from a premade GM sensor, but actual work is required.

I personally don't think the GM connector adds much value (just cost) on that sensor, just use heat shrinked sealed M/F connectors, perhaps with some vaseline packed in for good measure.

I'd put it on a manifold to head bolt, but it may not matter much.

I do



Just made another round last week. They are already gone though

[vw1970]

i dont see the warm up wizard in my tunerstudios either?

[juki48]

i dont see the warm up wizard in my tunerstudios either?

you have to download the latest Beta version. http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStudio/beta/

[juki48]

I made a new sensor using this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001W0 ... UTF8&psc=1
I used a 2-3 awg ground loop, drilled it out a hair then pressed the sensor right into it. I then wrapped it in some insulation and covered it in adhesive lined shrink wrap. turned out pretty nice.

I also took it to work and measured the resistance at -18°C, 25°C and 125°C 12,000, 2,010, and 96.5 ohms respectively.
my warmup is now MUCH better! after watching it warm up a couple times watching the ASE % and taper tables I manually adjusted them to what I thought it needed. I also used the wizard a few times. just started my engine at 44°F and it idled smooth until it was up to temp.
Thanks for the help guys!