Radiator placement position poll - Updated

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

There are a TON of Subaru's running around with the Outfront washer/limiter in it, no question that it works, but I do subscribe to the pump cavitation theory. The washer Outfront provides is not just a hole in the center, it has a bunch of smaller holes around the perimeter, and I'd guess it was just for this cause. I'm sure he'd of changed his ways a long time ago if it didn't work reliably. So far everything I've bought from them has been well thought out and just about perfect (except for the PS bracket).

I had another Subaru builder tell me to put the restriction at the outlet of the block, his theory is that you do need to slow the water, but allow the pump to have back pressure rather than an inlet restriction. To me this sounds more reasonable, but what do I know.

All the theory is interesting, however one of my friends Subaru turbo motors is entirely plumbed with 1" copper house tubing and he has no cooling issues at all. It looks like it would never work, but it does and has been for years. That said, it doesn't make it right.

Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance, words to live by.

[porboy]

When I had my car with the 6 cyl. Subaru my radiator was almost completely obstructed by the rear seat. I had a similiar size radiator and fans and never had a cooling problem. I used the washer from John and all my lines (Except the connections) were 1 1/2" mild steel tubing. I had my radiator as low as possible so if it sprung a leak the chances of it spraying the passengers was reduced. I will try to find a pic.

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

When I had my car with the 6 cyl. Subaru my radiator was almost completely obstructed by the rear seat. I had a similiar size radiator and fans and never had a cooling problem. I used the washer from John and all my lines (Except the connections) were 1 1/2" mild steel tubing. I had my radiator as low as possible so if it sprung a leak the chances of it spraying the passengers was reduced. I will try to find a pic.

Thx J, BTW, I was wondering how mild steel would hold up against corrosion. I'm thinking of using copper or aluminum but both are stupid expensive.

[Devastator]

Thx J, BTW, I was wondering how mild steel would hold up against corrosion.

"Old school" engines are cast iron, so I don't think you'll have a problem.

[bajaherbie]

DG said something about the supply/return lines being different sizes...


i think!

[porboy]

Here is the only pic I can find at work. Radiator was a Ron Davis with built in shroud. As you can see the portion of the radiator that was exposed was blocked by the seat. There was only about 8-10 inches between the two. The other half of the radiator was covered by paneling and blocked by the gas tank so it really got no airflow on that portion other than what the fans generated. I never had a problem with my lines but I only had the car for about a year or so after I did the conversion.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Check with your racing association... if you are building to one. Many associations do not allow copper anywhere as it work hardens and can crack and fail.

Like I said, the "washer" bit has been discussed since the 50's and the argument doesn't sound like it is going away.

Lee

[Iguana]

I use aluminium and rubber radiator lines and the factory thermostat with an 8mm hole in place of the rattle breather. I have issues with taking them out and expecting the engine heat to regulate properly and keep it in the preferred zone.

I know there are a lot of opinions on this but that is mine and so far I have had no issues with any of the Subaru conversion I have done. The thing is though that all the conversions I have done have been in street driven cars (buggies, baja's, kombi's etc) and as such had to behave correctly, pass emissions and not run like poop when hot / cold etc. You can get away with a lot more in an offroad only beast and judging by some of the subaru conversions I have seen many owners put up with some pretty badly running engines.

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

Ok, here's the latest, again appreciate everyones opinion.

Comp.jpg

The difference between A & B is where the lower support bar is located. In option A the bar is farther back, and the radiator is more layed down. Option A has the radiator more lined up with the car bars, but actually both look pretty good.

Which one do you like better?

Fans - well I way over did it. One of these would have been more than enough. They are loud and blow an insane amount of air through the radiator. May have to swap these over to a curved blade at about half the CFM, will be interesting to see if they are louder than the engine.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

"A" is a bit neater looking as it blends in with the down tubes.

I think "B" is giving you some access to the rear of the engine and maybe some room in the rear to work with. If there is any trapped air in the radiator it might be easier to bleed the system with "B".

While I could see the fill inlet on top right, I could not see where the outlet/inlet to the engine bungs were nor, other than the upper hose their relationship to the engine and its inlet and outlet; I think that is going to make some difference in placement also.

It does look good either way though.

[Turbo_Manx_Maniac]

OK, here's another challenge.

Final Pipe.jpg

I need to make this pipe removable for when I need to pull the motor. It's a 1" .060", and I need to connect it to the 1.5" perpendicular pipe. Any cool ideas to do this?

I was thinking of installing a 2" long 1" pipe that has a 3/8" center hole through the 1.5" and using a threaded end on each end of the center pipe, then just use a bolt to attach them.

What would DG or Get'r Done do?

[Iguana]

Just cut 1" off the end of the 1" tube and notch it to 2" and weld it on. Then use a 1" 2 bolt flange or camburg on the 1" cross bar to allow it to be removable.

[Leatherneck]

Just cut 1" off the end of the 1" tube and notch it to 2" and weld it on. Then use a 1" 2 bolt flange or camburg on the 1" cross bar to allow it to be removable.

And "A"

[Ol'fogasaurus]

One of these at each end of the tube should work. I am sure they are strong enough to work in shear.

Lee

[CentralWAbaja]

Another way of doing a removable bar. Note the 1" race required safety bar in front of this cell.

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