Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
- supaninja
- Posts: 1658
- Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 12:48 pm
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
That's a sweet boost leak tester.

'65 notch w/ a squirted type 4
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'68 "Zombie Response Vehicle" Westy
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- Zander
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:48 pm
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
You know you love it! 

- gaston
- Posts: 195
- Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 12:27 pm
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
As clonebug wrote: the blow off is mounted wrong. If you like I can supply a picture of my Saab showing it in the right way.Zander wrote:
Don't make fun of my clampsthere will be nice t-clamps on there soon. I will verify these are or aren't holding pressure this weekend.Thanks for the heads up on the intake nuts chip. Hadn't thought of that but did verify they're tight. I think I'm going to build a setup to pressurize the intake and check for leaks. Then from there it has to be exhaust leaks. I think I did find a small exhaust leak this morning at the #2 exhaust to head Joint. I'll fix that this weekend and see what happens. That's the only small one I noticed right off.
- yvre
- Posts: 501
- Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:58 am
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
Huh? So the mexi throttle body isn't boost friendly then?Zander wrote:
- Zander
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:48 pm
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
PLENTY of people have boosted the Mexican tb with great success ...maybe mine just has few more miles on it. Although the Mexican setup has never been thought of as a very high performance setup. It's great for it's clean look, ease of install etc. Most people go with the German setup for more hp. Im just running against the grain I guess
Maybe the throttle shaft could be rebushed and all would be good. It ran perfect n/a. No big deal, Ill mount up a new tb and give it a try.

- Zander
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:48 pm
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
Made up an adapter today to fit the ford tb today. I think it's going to work well. Just need to order up a bung for IAT sensor, universal throttle cable and a new silicone 90 bend. I'm exited to see the difference....


- Vee Dub Nut
- Posts: 1152
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
That throttle body looks familiar.. let me know if it leaks too 

Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006
67 Beetle
74 Transporter (SOHC EJ25)
See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut
67 Beetle
74 Transporter (SOHC EJ25)
See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut
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- Posts: 182
- Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:55 am
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
Love the install!
However, it looks like there are no clamps on the manifold boots!
Gill
However, it looks like there are no clamps on the manifold boots!
Gill
- Chip Birks
- Posts: 4042
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:59 pm
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
Those boots clamp tight on their own. I was making 12psi with mine unclamped. I was just starting to see some seepage coming from them at that point.
- MarioVelotta
- Posts: 4086
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 12:01 am
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
I had the exact same experience. It's possible that the milder car leaves less fuel in his manifold so seepage would be less apparent.Chip Birks wrote:Those boots clamp tight on their own. I was making 12psi with mine unclamped. I was just starting to see some seepage coming from them at that point.
The Dub Shop
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1600 ITB NA - 18sec
1600 Supercharged - 13psi - 15.40 @ 84.66mph
1600 Turbo - 185hp 250tq!! Going for 200
2276 Turbo - 15psi - 11.537 @ 115.74mph
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1600 ITB NA - 18sec
1600 Supercharged - 13psi - 15.40 @ 84.66mph
1600 Turbo - 185hp 250tq!! Going for 200
2276 Turbo - 15psi - 11.537 @ 115.74mph
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- Posts: 182
- Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:55 am
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
The more I look at this build the more I love it & the more sense it makes! A while ago I had the idea of ditching my CB style header (I hate the shallow drain angle) and bunging the turbo in the battery tray to give better access & a better drain angle & hopefully less smoke!
I thought of using the left hand side battery tray though, any reason why you used the right? I'm thinking maybe because of the full flow set up?
Another issue was the longer route to the turbo causing lag. However I currently have the same style header as you & wandered if the thinner primaries (compared to the CB header) would increase gas speed and offset the extra length? Any ideas?
Finally has the turbo added extra heat to the engine bay? I also have a type 2 & run a removable scoop on the louvres which in effect would be ramming air straight onto the turbo giving it fresher induction air and extra cooling. I thought of making an Aluminium partition to seal it off.
It would also simplify plumbing in terms of the induction pipe and air filter plus I could sell my CB header & make some cash!
I'm pretty much talking myself into this!!!
How is your new throttle body compared to the Mexi one?
Thanks.
Gill.
I thought of using the left hand side battery tray though, any reason why you used the right? I'm thinking maybe because of the full flow set up?
Another issue was the longer route to the turbo causing lag. However I currently have the same style header as you & wandered if the thinner primaries (compared to the CB header) would increase gas speed and offset the extra length? Any ideas?
Finally has the turbo added extra heat to the engine bay? I also have a type 2 & run a removable scoop on the louvres which in effect would be ramming air straight onto the turbo giving it fresher induction air and extra cooling. I thought of making an Aluminium partition to seal it off.
It would also simplify plumbing in terms of the induction pipe and air filter plus I could sell my CB header & make some cash!
I'm pretty much talking myself into this!!!
How is your new throttle body compared to the Mexi one?
Thanks.
Gill.
- Zander
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:48 pm
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
I went with the right battery tray as I have a gas heater occupying the left hand tray. The only choice was the right
I haven't noticed any extra heat in the engine bay to speak of. I also run a turbo blanket though. I actually just got another mexi tb and stuck it on there so I wouldn't have to mess with the throttle cable. I like simple on this project. Good luck, post up some pics once you start!

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- Posts: 182
- Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:55 am
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
Ahhh, that makes sense! I also had an old Eberspacher heater there but ditched it a while ago because it was broken - thought you'd be warm enough in Texas?!
Kind of glad you stuck with the Mexi tb as that is the way I'm going, I'm interested in your progress & may need some tips
! Most people tend to write it off as being too restrictive...
Do you find the boost is responsive on your set up or laggy with the longer & relatively thin header?
Have you had any idle or starting issuse? Are you using the Mexi idle valve?
Sorry for the barrage of questions but this is the closest I've seen to what I plan to do!
Love your set up!
Gill.
Kind of glad you stuck with the Mexi tb as that is the way I'm going, I'm interested in your progress & may need some tips

Do you find the boost is responsive on your set up or laggy with the longer & relatively thin header?
Have you had any idle or starting issuse? Are you using the Mexi idle valve?
Sorry for the barrage of questions but this is the closest I've seen to what I plan to do!
Love your set up!
Gill.
- Zander
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:48 pm
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
It starts building boost around 2200rpms. To me it's not laggy at all. It really freaks people out when a big camper keeps up with them or passes them in traffic. I will tell you an Intercooler may be necessary as iat climb pretty quick. I've got mine tuned at 8psi and its pretty well detonation free at all times (only if its really hot out and I stay in boost for a long time in fourth).
Starting and idling is awesome. It starts and runs without touching the pedal at all. Even lately the mornings have been in the 30F range and it starts up and idles smoothly at 600-700rpms until its warm then up to 900-1000rpms. No idle valve at all! Don't aske how I did it cause I'm honestly not sure lol. But the cold starts seem to be pretty nailed.
Starting and idling is awesome. It starts and runs without touching the pedal at all. Even lately the mornings have been in the 30F range and it starts up and idles smoothly at 600-700rpms until its warm then up to 900-1000rpms. No idle valve at all! Don't aske how I did it cause I'm honestly not sure lol. But the cold starts seem to be pretty nailed.
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- Posts: 182
- Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:55 am
Re: Homebrew Bay Window Turbo
Sounds ideal! I'll play it by ear with the idle valve, but I think I'll need it.
I'd like to aim for 8-10 psi too. I have a big arse Schwitzer S2A turbo I'm gonna use which worked well on my mild 1600 but I did wonder whether the smaller primaries would kill the spool? That woke up at 2600 rpm (ish) on my 1600 so if I could aim for similar with my 1776 I'd be happy. I also have a nice .42/.48 T3 I could easily swap with the Schwitzer if it's too big, or maybe pick up a TD04 like yours.
I did also wonder about swapping to the large flange version of the 4 into 1 header?
Not as worried about iat over here, It barely makes it over 20 Celcius - even in Summer!
I'd like to aim for 8-10 psi too. I have a big arse Schwitzer S2A turbo I'm gonna use which worked well on my mild 1600 but I did wonder whether the smaller primaries would kill the spool? That woke up at 2600 rpm (ish) on my 1600 so if I could aim for similar with my 1776 I'd be happy. I also have a nice .42/.48 T3 I could easily swap with the Schwitzer if it's too big, or maybe pick up a TD04 like yours.
I did also wonder about swapping to the large flange version of the 4 into 1 header?
Not as worried about iat over here, It barely makes it over 20 Celcius - even in Summer!