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crvc wrote:I didn't think I had enough strength to do that. Luckily I had a spare. So for torquing, someone check my math: My 190 pounds balanced on the tip of the 17-inch long wrench at 90 degree angles. 17 inch is 1.4 feet, times 190 pounds equals 266ftlbs?

kevin

Some mechanics at
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.auto ... led/topics

told me to torque the flywheel gland nut to 430 ft. lbs. since, they come loose sometimes.
Mine had been torqued to 350 ft. lbs. so that is what I torqued it to with my Torquemeister like torque tool.
I may be wrong though.

You can do 400+ with a CrMo HD gland nut...

The OG ones can take a lot of abuse as well, but I fear most have been replaced with Brazilian or Chinese versions.

Some people replace the whole thing vs. replacing the $5 bearing.

Piledriver wrote:You can do 400+ with a CrMo HD gland nut...

The OG ones can take a lot of abuse as well, but I fear most have been replaced with Brazilian or Chinese versions.

Some people replace the whole thing vs. replacing the $5 bearing.

This is the chromoly gland nut that I used after the pilot bearing failed on my stock gland nut:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SCAT-Chrom ... /60026.htm

Jim Ed wrote:

Piledriver wrote:You can do 400+ with a CrMo HD gland nut...

The OG ones can take a lot of abuse as well, but I fear most have been replaced with Brazilian or Chinese versions.

Some people replace the whole thing vs. replacing the $5 bearing.

This is the chromoly gland nut that I used after the pilot bearing failed on my stock gland nut:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SCAT-Chrom ... /60026.htm

Ah, good, I was expecting another snuff pic, this time of a CrMo gland nut...

Jim Ed wrote:..... told me to torque the flywheel gland nut to 430 ft. lbs. since, they come loose sometimes.

That's a fantasy. They don't come loose.
There's no need for loctite either, but many put it on to make themselves sleep better.

The only time I have seen them "come loose" is from things tearing up/self clearancing from too much power...
Too MUCH torque, causing the gland nut to stretch and lose it's integrity...
... or just as likely not torquing it properly to begin with.

Hopefully the 266ftlbs torque is enough, considering the official manual recommends 250ftlbs. I put in a lightened flywheel, new O-ring and red seal. Perhaps the light flywheel causes less 'shearing' action? But after breaking the first one I don't want to risk doing it again. How would I know if the flywheel comes loose?

kevin

Be on the alert for the characteristic "B-R-R-R-R-T" noise when changing RPM rapidly - it'll be most noticeable on a cold engine initially. Unfortunately by the time you hear it there will already be some damage (loosened dowel pin holes) but if you address it right away you may be able to salvage the situation without replacing the crankshaft.
You can also check the crankshaft endplay periodically, if it starts to increase there's a problem.
Often a loose glandnut will cause the crankshaft pulley bolt to come loose, too (sounds weird but it's true).

crvc wrote:Hopefully the 266ftlbs torque is enough, considering the official manual recommends 250ftlbs. I put in a lightened flywheel, new O-ring and red seal. Perhaps the light flywheel causes less 'shearing' action? But after breaking the first one I don't want to risk doing it again. How would I know if the flywheel comes loose?

kevin

Aren't you supposed to add a heavier crank pulley if you add a lightened flywheel?

Berg recommends it, but it's not mandatory.

Only because the original pulley was damaged by a loose oil pump bolt, I replaced it with something significantly larger. I think it came from a bus type-2 engine but that's a guess. BTW, I have a spare type-2 engine if this one gives me any more grief. Since this engine has been recently line-bored, could I transfer the same crank bearings in the type-2?

kevin

There's no significant difference between a Type I and a Type II case until 1972. `68-`70 Type II cases have three extra bosses cast in to accommodate the "moustache bar" for the rear mounts. What's the ID of the cases?

Impossible to say if the bearings could be recycled without knowing the actual dimensions of the case & bearings (including the width of the thrust saddle on #1)...but unless they're in pristine condition it'd be false economy to do so with new ones available for ~$50.

The only "larger" stock pulley would be one from a pre`61 engine; their larger diameter requires minor sheetmetal modification and a longer belt. Perhaps your old pulley was undersized (a "power" pulley...was it aluminum or steel?)...what length is the belt?

Jim Ed wrote: Aren't you supposed to add a heavier crank pulley if you add a lightened flywheel?

No.

Bruce2 wrote:

Jim Ed wrote:..... told me to torque the flywheel gland nut to 430 ft. lbs. since, they come loose sometimes.

That's a fantasy. They don't come loose...

We had one come loose on a cast 82mm crank in my BayWindow after nearly a year of driving and thousands of hard miles...trailered it home from work, tore it apart in the driveway, filed the end of the crank down with a Scout's whetstone and replaced the glandnut then blasted it with an impact, never had a problem again.

The case I'm using is UO. The spare is AE. The UO has been drilled for a type-1 dipstick and oil sending unit. The pulley I'm using came off that block. The older pulley is 6 and 5/8th inches in diameter. The new pulley is a lot heavier feeling and 7 inches in diameter. I got the engine in and was able to start it. I could see no drip coming from the flywheel but it stopped and I couldn't restart it before the battery died. It was too dark to do anything more anyway. So the battery is on the trickle charger and I'll try again tomorrow. I'm guessing having the rear elevated enough to slide the motor in I drained all the gas back into the tank? Even with the rear tires on the ground the rear still sits too high for gas to flow. Tomorrow I can roll it into my sloping driveway to get the gas moving.

kevin