signs of overheating

The VW Beetle. Everything about bugs!
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Jim Ed
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Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:14 am

Re: signs of overheating

Post by Jim Ed »

monkslayer wrote:I will post pics of the engine as soon as I can...the oil light flickers because the idling was way down.I will def change the oil.will offer more updates soon.
I don't have an oil temp gauge.
Do you have your rear engine tin in place?
Do you have the tins in between the cylinders on the lower side?
My mechanic told me to use 40HD in my beetle when it is really hot outside and to use 30HD when it is cold.
I have been using 20W50 when it is hot outside and 10W30 when it is cold.
Rob Boardman(aussiebug) told me he used 20W50 in his and got about 200,000 miles of use.

http://www.vw-resource.com/overheating.html
These are quotes from this link:

Know If Your Engine Is Running Too Hot?
There are several of ways -
The “Poor Man’s” Dipstick Test -
With the engine completely warmed up, grab the dip stick and pull it out. If you can JUST hold it without it burning your fingers, the engine temperature is OK. If it burns your fingers (and the engine will usually smell hot too), then the temperature is too high -- possibly as high as 285°F (140°C) -- VERY hot!

Reading Temperature with a Candy Thermometer!
I was very disappointed - installing the oil temperature gauge was a lot of work. Much simpler is either the candy thermometer trick or Gene Berg's temperature-sensing dipstick, described below.
monkslayer
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Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:29 pm

Re: signs of overheating

Post by monkslayer »

Ok..there is no endplay between crankshaft and block...its nice and 'snuggly';-).Probably it is an over heating problem but i am at a loss what the problem could be.I have examined the engine over and over again,had a vw mechanic look at it and even he was at a loss.He said maybe its the switch.I discarded the switch idea since it only comes on after a hard run or when the idling drops(which of late it as a habit of doing after a long run.)He pointed out that the block could be weak and couldn't sustain extreme temps...i had earlier knocked the engine after driving it really hard after a rebuild.

This weekend i went for a 200k drive and half of the drive back was up a steep hill,after finishing the climb both lights came on.After a slight rave the went out.after which the oil light stayed on.I stopped for a while...after which trying to start up the car,it would come on then go off.The fuel Pump had failed!Had to switch to the electronic pump.

FYI:the engine was recently rebuilt hardly 4 months ago..hardly 1000km..

Any ideas..opinions.as requested here are some pics of my engine.Thanks in advance.
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Slow 1200
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2002 12:01 am

Re: signs of overheating

Post by Slow 1200 »

at least you should cover those holes in the rear tin, and if you are running the heat exchangers you definetly need the heater hoses blowing air on them (if you have J-tubes disregard previous comment)
what belt are you using? alternators take a wider one
Slow 1200
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by Slow 1200 »

oh and all those holes in the fan housing are not good for your cooling either!
monkslayer
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by monkslayer »

I think the belt is 9.5 x1100..is that wide enough?i will try to seal the holes in the fan housing and see if there is a difference...
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Jim Ed
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by Jim Ed »

If you ever take the engine out again I recommend painting the engine compartment hi heat oil resistant flat black and painting the engine tin and air cleaner hi heat oil resistant semi-gloss black.
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Jim Ed
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by Jim Ed »

I would move all wires and hoses away from the intake manifold and heat riser to keep them from melting.

You could wad up some aluminum foil and stick it in the two big holes in the rear engine tin where the fresh air hoses go. That would help keep heat out.

Does the deck lid have louvres or vents?
A deck lid stand off kit would help cooling or you could remove the spring and prop it open at the bottom with an empty 12 ounce Coca Cola can.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... C-C10-3030

I have found that the deck lid stand off kit lowers oil temp by about 30 degrees F.

What kind of distributor does it have? What is the timing set to and how did you set it?

Maybe the carburetor is adjusted with too lean of an air:fuel mixture.
monkslayer
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by monkslayer »

The deck lid does't have vents or louvres.Also the distributor i got from a transporter.The electronic ignition one.it was a direct fit...
Slow 1200
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by Slow 1200 »

monkslayer wrote:I think the belt is 9.5 x1100..is that wide enough?i will try to seal the holes in the fan housing and see if there is a difference...
I think you need a 11.3x912 belt
Slow 1200
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by Slow 1200 »

what's your carburettor? it might not be matched to the vacuum signal that distributor needs
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Jim Ed
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by Jim Ed »

monkslayer wrote:The deck lid does't have vents or louvres.Also the distributor i got from a transporter.The electronic ignition one.it was a direct fit...
I think your over heating problem is because of your carburetor and distributor.

I think you probably need a 30 mm carb like in this link:
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=528
and
I think you need a distributor like in this link:
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1348
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KarenTheBug
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by KarenTheBug »

What about his thermostats & flaps? Back before my thermostats 100% failed, I noticed a month or so where my engine was running too warm, like they were failing slowly, until one day they completely locked shut & my engine compartment seals melted before I knew what was going on :oops:

He's also got the wrong (smooth / no louvers) deck lid for his engine - he said he's got a 1600 single port, which started in '70, along with the two slot lid on all non-'vert bugs the same year. I'm not a big fan of deck lid stand-offs, I think it looks trashy and cheap, and if you've got the proper engine for your body and it's setup & tuned properly you shouldn't need them.

You didn't mention what model year your bug is, but judging by the pictures, if you can find a two slot lid it should fit (your back end looks like a '68+, and all '68+ lids are interchangeable). If you can't find an original two slot, buy a Mexican four slot from some place like JBugs.

http://www.jbugs.com/product/111827025A ... ds-handles

Clean engines also dissipate heat better than dirty ones, as crud acts as an insulator. It's a pain in the ass keeping a daily driver's engine compartment clean (I'm guilty of that on my 2000 watercooled Beetle :oops: ), but it should help out here along with the other suggestions & repainting your tin.
Since 1938, it's what the People want.
1971 Type 1 model 1300 Sedan
1972 Type 1 model 1302 Sedan
monkslayer
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by monkslayer »

the carburator is a peugot carb....i had trouble getting a good carburator so i decided to do a bit of modification.Also the problems started after the last rebuild when my engine seized...before the carb and distributor were working perfectly....but will look into that..replacing the rear deck lid and reverting to a vw carb...quick question..would the 28 pict 1 work on well on my 1600sp...
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KarenTheBug
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by KarenTheBug »

monkslayer wrote:the carburator is a peugot carb....i had trouble getting a good carburator so i decided to do a bit of modification.Also the problems started after the last rebuild when my engine seized...before the carb and distributor were working perfectly....but will look into that..replacing the rear deck lid and reverting to a vw carb...quick question..would the 28 pict 1 work on well on my 1600sp...
You're probably better off getting a 34. My 1600dp has a 34 made by EMPI and a BOSCH single vacuum dual advance dizzy, runs like she's brand new off the showroom floor. When I bought her, she had a 28 carby and a mechanical 009 dizzy, ran like garbage.
Since 1938, it's what the People want.
1971 Type 1 model 1300 Sedan
1972 Type 1 model 1302 Sedan
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Jim Ed
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Re: signs of overheating

Post by Jim Ed »

KarenTheBug wrote: You're probably better off getting a 34. My 1600dp has a 34 made by EMPI
Does the Empi 34PICT3 carb leak at the throttle shaft?
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