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Next Summer, when I have a little more money, I want to remove the swivel feet and install .080 lash caps and stock adjustment screws since, I have heard bad things about swivel feet.

First I installed a set of these from C.B. performance:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=115

One of the balls on one of the swivel feet was stuck so, I installed a set of these from aircooled.net. No stuck balls from them.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewpr ... 1043822649

Swivel Feel (Courier) adjusters

The second set are made by Scat.

The sound of the engine now is smoother and quieter than with the CB swivel feet.

There is plenty of room to make lash adjustments.

I still like CB performance but, I am going to call them about my problem and will probably switch over to aircooled.net.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

C.B. e-mailed me and they are sending me a replacement swivel foot for the defective swivel foot in the set I received.

The engines that I have owned and/or built for others were generally kinda mild (ie: 1700cc, engle 110 cam, kadrons or dcnf's) but have used Gene Berg's elephant feet. They used to be approx $30 per set back then. Now, I would have to break the law in order to buy a set of Berg's or the genuine 911's. No way am I gonna spend $175.00.
Just finished "refurbishing" a pick a part engine for my '71 bus and wanted a few improvements to go along with my bolt-ons. I chose the Scat "courier style" from Brothers Machine out in Ontario, Calif. Customer service is top notch. I have just under 10k miles on this bus engine and no issues so far. I was gonna get the CB ones but just felt like catering to the local shops down in So Cal's area. I would with out any worry buy the CB products in the future and sleep well at night. (hope I dont eat my words), Later guys, Bill

Scat swivel feet installation instructions

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Product Instructions for aircoolednet swivel feet

Start by removing the valve cover. Loosen the locknuts that secure the stock adjusting screw while the rocker assembly is still attatched to the head. Remove the two nuts securing the rocker assembly to the head and remove. Remove the stock lock nuts and set aside. Remove the stock adjusting screws.

Usually, when installing 911 or Courier style adjusting screws into VW rocker arms, about .060" of the rocker arm must be shaved off to allow the adjuster (which has a thicker head) to screw into the rocker arm as far as it needs to. Some people add shims under the rocker assemblies to space the rockers away from the valve enough to maintain enough room for valve adjustment, but this disrupts proper valvetrain geometry, and should not be done. You do not need a machine shop to take the .060" off the rocker, a simple angle grinder and a steady hand can get the job done easily. Make sure to grind in the direction of the rocker. If you grind with the blade cutting across the rocker arm (which is the easiest way), the "gouges" can be the location of a rocker arm failure. If you have the grind marks running the length of the rocker arm, this does not happen. 

With the rockers clearanced for the adjusters, screw the adjusters into the rocker assemblies and install the locknuts from the stock adjusting screws. Re-install the rocker assembly to the head, making sure the pushrods seat in the rocker arm cups before tightening down the whole assembly.

With the new adjusters installed, you need to re-set the valve lash. If you run aluminum pushrods, we recommend .006" of lash cold, and if you run chromoly pushrods, we recommend .000" to .001" valve lash cold.  If there is not enough room for the adjuster to allow any lash, more material must be removed from the rocker arms so you can back the adjuster out. You can add shims between the rocker and head if you have already shortened the rockers .060-.100". Proper valvetrain geometry is where the adjuster screw is directly in-line with the valvestem at 1/2 lift. If you measure it at 1/2 lift and it's not in-line, the geometry is off and should be corrected.

WARNING: If you have a cam and rocker combination that provides around .450" of lift or more, you need to check that the swivel ball HOUSING is not contacting the valve, which can occur at 0 lift, or full lift. If it is contacting, running the engine this way will peen over the edge of the housing, which wedges the swivel ball in place and will chew up the valve stem, as well as the adjuster. If your cam has too much lift and causes this problem, you will have to upgrade to the 911 style adjuster for your application.

I think I will pack up my rocker assemblies and send them to a machine shop that works on aircooled VWs.

Jim Ed wrote:Scat swivel feet installation instructions

--------------------------------

Product Instructions for aircoolednet swivel feet

Start by removing the valve cover. Loosen the locknuts that secure the stock adjusting screw while the rocker assembly is still attatched to the head. Remove the two nuts securing the rocker assembly to the head and remove. Remove the stock lock nuts and set aside. Remove the stock adjusting screws.

Usually, when installing 911 or Courier style adjusting screws into VW rocker arms, about .060" of the rocker arm must be shaved off to allow the adjuster (which has a thicker head) to screw into the rocker arm as far as it needs to. Some people add shims under the rocker assemblies to space the rockers away from the valve enough to maintain enough room for valve adjustment, but this disrupts proper valvetrain geometry, and should not be done. You do not need a machine shop to take the .060" off the rocker, a simple angle grinder and a steady hand can get the job done easily. Make sure to grind in the direction of the rocker. If you grind with the blade cutting across the rocker arm (which is the easiest way), the "gouges" can be the location of a rocker arm failure. If you have the grind marks running the length of the rocker arm, this does not happen. 

With the rockers clearanced for the adjusters, screw the adjusters into the rocker assemblies and install the locknuts from the stock adjusting screws. Re-install the rocker assembly to the head, making sure the pushrods seat in the rocker arm cups before tightening down the whole assembly.

With the new adjusters installed, you need to re-set the valve lash. If you run aluminum pushrods, we recommend .006" of lash cold, and if you run chromoly pushrods, we recommend .000" to .001" valve lash cold.  If there is not enough room for the adjuster to allow any lash, more material must be removed from the rocker arms so you can back the adjuster out. You can add shims between the rocker and head if you have already shortened the rockers .060-.100". Proper valvetrain geometry is where the adjuster screw is directly in-line with the valvestem at 1/2 lift. If you measure it at 1/2 lift and it's not in-line, the geometry is off and should be corrected.

WARNING: If you have a cam and rocker combination that provides around .450" of lift or more, you need to check that the swivel ball HOUSING is not contacting the valve, which can occur at 0 lift, or full lift. If it is contacting, running the engine this way will peen over the edge of the housing, which wedges the swivel ball in place and will chew up the valve stem, as well as the adjuster. If your cam has too much lift and causes this problem, you will have to upgrade to the 911 style adjuster for your application.